Jump to content

Welcome to the SMD forum!

Bj3ll0

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Bj3ll0

  • Rank
    120db
  • Birthday 03/02/1990

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    lol msn really?

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albany, NY
  • Interests
    Youtube, Social Media Advertising, Vehicle Modification, Skateboarding, Surfing, computer things

Recent Profile Visitors

1427 profile views
  1. 2 incriminator audio death penalty 12s always wanted to try them they are all out ground pounders
  2. ^ this is important as you can still check continuity and voltage and even check it for distortion with a dd1 but you won’t know how it acts when hooked up to subs and This happens more often than you think or some won’t go into protect untill a load is present so it’ll power up fine there but as soon as you hook up the woofer click, you also won’t be able to see how hot it gets either when it’s pounding away. Id see if someone who has subs would test it for you.
  3. Ask him Dudes a genius and is pretty active on his channel. I just don’t know answer and don’t want to misinform.
  4. Don’t junk gp car audio makes alts for the soul and singer can make a 180 in the stock case and bigger in custom for more money but his are the best, gp I heard mixed reviews but personally every experience I have had with them was great
  5. Looks like your taxing the alt and draining batt, with that power you should be fine with about 75ah of agm and a big 3 but that agm should be dedicated. Or go bigger alt and big 3, and should be good if it’s only doing >1500 if you invest in the alt now you will have the foundation for a better system later when you decide it’s not enough and can just add batteries
  6. I know some people who swear by DS18 for Mids. and Highs, my problem with them is they have some products that are highly over-rated and some that are not, I have also seen some crazy subs build with them. The Mids and highs are comparable to that of prv my friend who runs them said. I personally have never used either as I personally use infinity coaxial just because of price fitment and honestly the infinity refrence sound so good crossed at 80hz I cant believe they are coaxials.(maybe its just me ) I personally haven't seen the ds18s in action enough to give MY opinion but I know a few people who run those daily and swear by them. just not enough reviews out there for me to buy em.
  7. The size of speaker has no relevance to the sound it puts out its all based on power frequency response if they are free air or in an enclosure etc. when you start mixing sizes the smaller speakers will cancel out the waves of the smaller ones or the smaller ones will muddy up the sound, your best off using all the same size for the same frequencies as the same speakers, Sometimes in a very large vehicle I have seeen success in have a small sealed 8 up front for the upper frequency of 120-50 then after that the rear subs take over but this guy knew what he was doing. I would do all your choice of tweets 6.5s just add more if it’s not loud enough for mids then all one size sub for bass and make sure they have room to breathe set your cross overs properly seal your door properly (this will improve mid bass) and send it
  8. Like they said your impedance changes at different frequencies I’m sure that the box is tuned well above 30 which also will have I’ll effect also music is dynamic so one song may be at -3db one may be at -5db and the same song can flux, with the loudness wars now some songs even peak at 0db. The tweeter method works but only gets you in the realm of where you want to be you need to know your system and your source and dial in if you want to be loud all the time and if you want to be safe get a 0db test tone set the gains with a dd1 and back off the volume knob and you won’t ever have to worry even if your giving them extra power in a proper box but it seems you have many factors working against you.
  9. the Bluetooth on my pioneer clipped at 38 our of 42 on my head unit, as did everything else on it. but im sure that it is different per head unit. I would set it at around 75-80 percent of units max volume, the issue with blue tooth is your S/N ratio drops and is more inherent to noise, I would just test your RCA voltage as this usually clips one or two steps after the speakers and just make sure its not going over what your rated and as soon as it does dial it back one or two notches its going to be all guessing until you get a DD-1 or DMrta / oscope .
  10. Dibo the deaf bonce 4k do you think it would take .25 ohm i heard they like it low. i plan on running it at one but knowing me... having dual 1s im gonna be tempted.
  11. but i do have to agree with those deaf bonce amps being awesome Im waiting to power the 4k myself
  12. I love how everyone is just bashing Taramps and not helping the guy... the 30ks are designed to be wired into the dirt. the md8ks are not, the md8k is also rated at 60hz vs 100hz, taramps make the power they are not unreliable, they are designed to work in specific parameters, they like under 2.5v input, short power runs, and to be wired where they are designed to be wired. people are just used to companies rating at 4 ohms and stable down to .5. in my opinion I would go for the 30ks as you will have more wiring options and head room. you will also be able to wire down to combat rise.
  13. I got a samsung curve and you definitely notice a difference even on the 1080p content, a lot of the nicer 4k tvs upscale the content so true 1080p looks way more detailed and vibrant and 4k content is mind blowing, I can deffinatly agree with the bandwidth issue I have 30mbps download and 5 up and i still have buffering once in a while nothing inhibiting though. My opinion is go with the 4k the difference is extraordinary if your going with a good brand. I can clearly see the difference between my 1080p Samsung LED and my 4k curve.
×
×
  • Create New...