Joshdashef

Speaker outputs ? Do you mean using the built in Headunit amp? Those all distort we ll before your rca preamp outs distort

speaker terminals should be unplugged when you use a dd-1

When you found the clipping point of your radio with the RCAs hooked into the amp but the speaker wires unplugged, were all your filters set off or crossovers set so they don't interfere? Check any eq setting on your radio, turn them off, see if that makes a difference. It is possible the radio is the route of all the trouble or it could be an RCA dud. Pull all your RCAs out and check the connections to make sure they are tight and not loose just in case. Try changing the battery in the DD-1 for a fresh one. Try the 40hz - 0db track, and see if it gives you any different results. It is possible that you are seeing expected distortion at 1/2 to 3/4 volume and that is just normal for the radio, not many aftermarket radios can go all the way up without distortion. ---------------- You mentioned you were looking at the DEH 80 PRS, this is the current radio I am using and although I haven't measured the voltage of my RCAs, the radios limit is 62 but with volume source input +1 (bluetooth Iphone) I don't clip until 62, so I tuned at 61. Only issues I have with this radio is the screen is not very bright during the day, at night it is no problem. Also it has two modes network and standard - I have only used network mode since I am using an active setup so all my crossovers are within the radio instead of on my amps. ------------------ Btw nice wire job, looks clean as hell man!

My civics mechman 240a alt has been running good. Only issues were cosmetic and a belt that slips a little but that happened with stock alternator. Only happens when I turn the ac on or off at a stop low output is 12.8 and high output is 14.2/14.3 dips to about 13.8 going heavy

Download links for DD-1 Test Tracks Just giving a download link from the files I use to tune for my bluetooth output since I have to adjust it differently than my CD output. Link to the official owners manual and FLAC test files; https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads Link to my onedrive with Apples Lossless and MP3 320kb and FLAC; https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnoZk6pLteGdgSQtcd4mSLIu3T9v I used dbpoweramp to convert the FLAC files to m4a and VLC to convert to mp3 320kbs How to Spotify Offline Playlist It's a little tricky but you can set it up so you can make a local playlist for Spotify to play either the Apple lossless or MP3 files, FLAC is not compatible... What I had to do was this; First you need a computer, download Spotify app. 1. Top left corner has three horizontal dots click it 2. Edit ---> Preferences (Ctrl+ P) 3. Scroll down to Local Files 4. Click Add A Source Button 5. Navigate to where you have any files that are compatible with Spotify and select them, so far I have gotten .m4a and mp3s to work but here is the official write up: https://support.spotify.com/us/using_spotify/features/listen-to-local-files/ 6. You should now see "Show songs from" and right below that would be your file location. For example, "D:\Ryan\Music\DD-1\Distortion Detector" 7. Now go to the left bar and select local files, and highlight every file you want to add to a playlist shift click or control click works here. 8. Right click ---> Add to playlist ---> New Playlist (or existing one) 9. This creates a playlist with the name of the first song, you can rename it by clicking the playlist name ---> three dots in the center of the screen ---> edit details 10. Now click the Download bar at the top right of the playlist 11. Open your phones Spotify and you should see the songs being downloaded, if not exit the app on your phone and reopen it once they are all downloaded they should appear in the playlist. If they don't and your on a windows computer you need to enable network discovery by doing this; 1. Open control panel 2. Network and Internet 3. Network and Sharing Center 4. Advanced Sharing Settings 5. Private drop down arrow 6. Turn on network discovery And try enabling download and disabling the download bar on your computer. Then relaunch the app on your phone and it should work. Now the steps may be different for mac slightly, but essentially the same thing.

I think getting your own foam and cutting to form fit each one and their leads would be the cleanest method but if you just want a place to keep them cut off the top of the box it comes in.

Damn man that guys is a dumbass I've always been scared to install a rear cam because of it being vibrated to death so I tried out the N2 Pro that has a forward and in-cabin camera. Not as good as that 6 cam setup but it does the job on a budget.

I'm excited to see what this is.

Hey that is the color I bought! Nice

I second SMD fuse blocks/distro blocks. They are more expensive than any other alternative but if your running multiple amps and accessories they are worth the extra. Quality and clean looking. I just put in 2 dual fuse blocks from SMD and they are amazing compared to my previous sky high fuse blocks...

I can't help with box knowledge but I am sure someone else can. However, when it comes to your question about fusing; you should always fuse for the wire size and length to prevent excess current heating up the wire and fire. In saying that, you should fuse before and after you enter a battery and before you enter your amp. Now when you say you have two 200 amp fuses does that mean you have them hooked up one after the hood battery and one before the trunk batteries? or you have two runs of 1/0 each fused after the first battery with 200 amp fuses? Which in case I suggest adding another fuse before you enter your rear batteries. If you have it in the first mentioned format then your wire will be protected for up to 200 amps not 400, but it only matters what your wire can take. Since you have 1/0 I take it your running CCA 1/0 since your only using 200 amp fuses? If your using OFC or copper you should be able to step that up some but you should research your brands wire to be safe. Also if your wondering what size fuse to use to go into your amp you should look at the manufacturers recommendations. https://www.bandaaudiopartsusa.com/online-store/ICE-X-3002-p89213005 seems to show an average musical current draw of 155 A. I use this post for my planning. Might help you out but bare in mind the type of wire you use changes these numbers so always double check otherwise your fuses are useless.

Sick power! I'm getting ready to order myself one of your 240 amp ones for my build

It says 240 in stock on http://www.down4soundshop.com/DD-1/

I was just wondering what happened to the release date for the dd-1s I put in an order at http://skyhighcaraudio.com and the 150 was taken out of my paypal but now the Expected release date is May 14th 2018 and earlier today it said the 12th ???? Were there simply too many pre-orders? I'm not trying to wine or rush it as I don't need mine until near the end of this month anyways, just wondering what happened.

This build is so clean I can't wait to see it in action

I did a quick Google search and found this article. http://tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=7828 But the pics are not there anymore like most older thread's Basically like tboorm said. Grounds should be near battery. If you don't know if the part you want to ground to is good or not you can use a volt meter to check continuity with + probe on battery + and - probe where you want to ground. Once you know the part you chose connects to the battery now turn to your resistance setting on your multi meter ( measured in ohms ) and look to make sure it's less than .3 try to get lower if you can. I used where my stock wires grounded in my Civic and it works great but they're less than a foot away already.