Joshdashef

Perfect timing for me! Need some of that heat proofing material you have for a headliner

😁 I think this will do for the next build

Gotta say though that Skar box is super clean for a pre-built and a decent price, if you consider the cost of wood tools, at 180$

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-18-inch-car-subwoofer?variant=30196958733 Recommended Ported Volume: 3.75 ~ 4.50 ft³ No specs on displacement, but for an 18 I would assume between .15 and .3 cubic feet. You're going to want to include what power you plan on running along with maximum dimensions

That's pretty cool to see on such a behemoth

Sorry Onedrive must have broke 🤦‍♂️ I have re-uploaded the 320 mp3s but you can always find these tracks on the manufacturers website here: https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads

12 year old thread lol

If you want more advice for your electrical system a new thread will help you more, but when you are determining the power you will be drawing you will look at the amps outputting that power. Not the subwoofer/speakers receiving the power.

👀🍿

Forgot to add to this old post, but I made a 2020 tool map. Not just for your SMD tools, so feel free to comment on this post below and include stuff beyond your DD-1 like a table saw or RTA mic etc. Cheers!

If you need it now just buy it. Otherwise wait for a sale, SecondSkin has always posted there sales on their instagram, facebook, and even here... if you missed it you weren't looking hard enough.

Hey man welcome to the forum. If you want to get more help please start a new thread. A couple tips till then; put a multi meter on your subwoofer and see if it still reads 2 ohms at each voice coil or each pair of pos/neg (can be a little different than 2 exactly). Also can you move the cone downward at all? or is it frozen in place? So long as you can move it and hear no rubbing like the coils rubbing you could still have a perfectly good sub. check your fuses, wires, grounds, and rcas to make sure you haven't gotten any issues with the amp or signal. Check your filters on your radio and amp. If you feel like you can't get anything below 100Hz to play you might have a High Pass Filter at 100ish Hz stopping all frequencies below that from playing. Here you can see the differences between a High Pass and Low Pass Filter. High Pass allows for frequencies above a set point to play normally, attenuating those below it. While a Low Pass does the opposite. Attenuates everything to be quieter above a set point while keeping the frequencies below a set point at normal levels. I went through that whole spotify rabbit hole because I just wanted the files on my phone instead of having to deal with another device, but you can easily put the files you download off D'Amores website onto a USB drive or SD card (whatever your radio has compatibility for) instead of a CD player since you don't have one. Sub brands you may want to look at for that power rating include, Fi, DC, Sundown... to name only a few. Really my opinion is to find out what you want from this sub then find a sub that can do that, low frequencies monster? great numbers on the meter for competing? or just simply SQL where you have a great frequency response of your subwoofer for more of a sound quality loud.

@SnowDrifter Got any clue if this is an old unit or something? Wiring isn’t matching any documentation.

I think its weird man but I think you are suppose to use that supplied in line fuse (bigger yellow) into the smaller red. Kinda funky if you ask me

Think the booklet is wrong man. Maybe an old unit? SMD stuff is pretty solid so probably a mix up. Before you install test it on the bench. Those three small wires are grouped for a reason I assume. See if any have tiny writing on them saying switched 12v or ground or constant source etc. I would test tiny wires as your red (power) with black (ground) and yellow as your switched. If that fails keep the same ground on tiny black wire and switch the red and yellow wires around so red is now your trigger or switched 12v and yellow is your constant fused 12v source then your fan wires are the bigger wires black (fan ground) and grey/white (fan positive) Best of luck! Let us know how it turns out

Hey man SMD products have some of the best customer service imo. The dd-1 and cc-1 have gotten firm ware updates and likely physical component updates across the years since 2013 so I think you need to simply get them sent in for a tune up or replacement of the face plate. I would send your original purchase invoice to D'Amore Enginnering through their facebook and or email them as well. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DAmoreEngineering/ Also, ask about this: https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/collections/parts-store/products/total-overhaul I was looking on their website a while back and saw they had this tune up / total overhaul for 35$. A small price for renewing a 7 year old device Best of luck!

I think I understand what your wanting to do but let me save you the head ache of trying to create an airtight connection between a ported portion of a 4th order and the sealed section you already have.... If you do decide to go for a 4th order start with a new box imoh then you can easily adjust the ratio without any limiting factors like the current box dimensions you have

Hey man this thread is from ~9 years ago. If you have a question about tuning your radio with the DD-1 please just make a new post titled something like "Help with DD1 tuning" Top right of main page says "+ Create" > then select topic, scroll down till you see Equipment and click it > then click Head Units-Processors and Eq's Cheers, J

You fit a D fucking 3100 in an Acura o.0?

Just get a battery that has a little smaller dimensions than your current battery 🤦‍♂️ if one doesn't fit then just find one that will regardless of the brand? Why you gotta bash a brand because they can't provide a product that is within a hair of your very specific and important trucks battery tray? They offer 19 different sizes of D series AGMs, so yes they have one that will fit in your truck but nobody is forcing you to buy an XS AGM.

Such a good resource for people just getting into the hobby! Well done @Second Skin👌

I like this much better, might steal this idea for a rebuild

Think of overlap as allowing you to set your gains higher with a negative overlap because the signal coming from your radio is -5 or -10 dbs lower than at original 0 db source volume. Music is dynamic so the purpose is to allow you to get more out of your amp with music A moderate amount is -5db so you should be fine with that, or go with a higher one and just pay attention to how your sub sounds / smells.

If you tune at flat eq you will not distort at 39 but will at 40. Adjust those settings and your distortion point will change, aka you are adding your own "gain" boost to the music from the headunit instead of at the amp when you change eq settings. You can adjust the eq to your preference, say you want more mid range than highs - do that, then tune to find your new distortion point.

Diagrams should help explain this. Essentially whatever sub you get usually has dual (two) voice coils. You wire those in a certain way to get a nominal resistance (what your amp will see). All diagrams from this: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp Just remember wiring in series doubles resistance, parallel halves it. With more woofers you can get some more complicated wiring but essentially use the above website to double check yourself. Say you buy a Dual 2 ohm woofer. Running a single one will let you get either 1ohm or 4 ohms nominal now if you had a dual 4 ohm woofer you can wire it to either 2 ohms or 8 ohms. say you wanted four woofers and wanted a final nominal load of 1 ohm. Here you would want to run four 2 ohm woofers to reach 1 ohm. If you had four 4 ohm woofers you would end up at either 0.5 or 2 ohms.... not to be desired sorry for such a long post on my phone between classes Rn. But hope this helps you visualize the differences in wiring your subs. Doesn’t hurt to double check!