Quiet

srsly, you should sell the DD or save it for a rainy day. There's a lot of 8s and 10s out there that will slam in a cube ported. Only an example, the $50 RE 8 I have is in 1 cube@30hz and plays Rack City all day long clean as hell, as well as the low note in Put On. I get lots of "that ain't no 8 back there." I hear the new Sundown 8 gets it pretty good, too.

You obviously have never heard a good sealed box. Check out Berlow7 on youtube, 4 Autotek 15's in a sealed wall doing 150.1DB at 26Hz. He played rack city in his car when i heard it, and that shit was tearing my ear apart. Along with that, Thescottishbear on here had 3 18's walled in his malibu and it had no problem getting low. It would play lower and louder ported. That's just the way it is. I don't give a fuck how well you build a sealed box, this sub will sound louder and deeper in a ported box built just as well.

It'd be a shame to smoke the coils too

If the box seems small, stuff it with polyfill. Slows the waves and acts like a bigger box. Also if you're concerned about thermal power handling, just invert the sub if you can.

mah bad den. just try it then. My experience with sealed is muddy bass when you really drive it hard, and your lowz disappear. If you want small, get a smaller sub and build a decent box for it IMO

I figured you were serious after ripping out your wall...

no. If I don't like it, I fix it or replace it.

You can do a lot of the same stuff with gimp, but I've been using photoshop so long that I can't get past the learning curve, everything is just a tad different. If you are starting from scratch, you can probably pick it up easier.

'Bout time. Style fell behind Chevy and Dodge 10 years ago and hasn't changed since. And every Ranger I've ever driven drives like shit. Good riddance is right.

Which one is closer to the port? Loading issue maybe so the one that unloads is moving more air around the coil keeping it cooler maybe?

There will always be louder. And there will always be louder with less. There's no right answer to this, but the single most important key to gettin' loud is knowledge. Asking one single question won't do it. Asking hundreds of questions and experience will help you get there. Lurk around, start asking educated questions... You'll get loud before you know it, kid. Learn something in here, and soon enough you'll be laughing at threads like this, no offense. Everyone here started off where you are right now.

Nice numbers for old school woofers.

LMAO @ menace

that's a lot of ear candy

Tell your boss to invest in one of these or you quit. If he bitches call OSHA. Bet there's a whole bunch of OSHA FAIL in his garage.

Lets see... 2 bus bars at approx 1lb each (for argument's sake) = 32oz x $1574.60 = $50,387.20 for gold bus bars... For Silver, make it $907.52 (these are just trading prices... weekend trading prices at that) For Aluminum (scrap price $0.89 PER POUND, lets triple it for retail) So $5.34 but I'm sure it costs more than that Doesn't make much sense to put more cash into the bus bars than the rest of the system. But do what you want, I won't judge EDIT: Platinum bus bars would be cheaper than gold, $48,888.

I can't think of any build I've enjoyed watching more than this on the forum. And that IS-F is getting a fitting system... Not too much and not too little it seems. And thanks again for going out of pocket for SOTM April. I'm listening to the RE 8" sub I picked up with the cash right now... it's prolly the best overall sounding sub I've owned LOL Do work, bro!

Tuning

Talk to the sales guy, see what he says. If he makes promises to sell you the car, get it in writing and signed before you trade keys. An agreement is one of the strongest legally binding things you can protect yourself with.

as always N8 is on the right track. My understanding is that if they believe anything you changed on the car has caused something to break, they can deny a warranty claim. i.e. if you add amps and your alt dies, they probably won't replace it. However, if you have an aftermarket battery, 2k worth of amps, and a new HU and your transmission gives up the ghost, then it should be covered. I used to sell cars in a college town.

^^^ Parts Express

^yep

Not exactly theory. Don't try at full tilt. At tuning most of your output comes from the port and your cone moves very little due to rise.

Is it loaded and playing? An easy unscientific way to gauge your tuning frequency is to play a series of frequencies, one at a time, all at the same level and watch the cone. The frequency that it seems to move the least but is still loud should be your tuning frequency.

RIP to your pops, bro. I lost my dad back in October. I'm 32 and it still feels like he went too soon.