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Dafaseles

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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. This is a thread from 2009. It was a kind of amp linkage tool so you could essentially take 4 1000 watt amps and make a 4000 watt amp. It's pretty obsolete now though considering you can buy 30k watt amplifiers.
  2. As far as amplifier, anything 4000-4500 watts would be fine. You'll probably want to go with 1 amp because you have 2 dual 1's, so with one amp you'll be able to run at 1 ohm. As far as brand... I'd say just stay away from dual, boss, power acoustic, and hyphonics. Any of the big brands would do you well. Most amplifiers today will do rated or a little more. Alternator, you've got it easy having an older suburban. Everyone makes alternators for your truck. Mechman, singer, brand x and JS come to mind. And the mounting is just a preference thing. No real benefit either way usually. Motor up means the enclosure can be smaller because there is no subwoofer displacement inside the box, but 99% of the sub is outside the box. And cone out is just the opposite. The only thing is you have to reverse the polarity if you're running motor up. When the bass hits, it's usually preferable to have the cone move towards the outside of the box first, then recoil into the box.
  3. -15 would be louder than -10. I'd say use -10 to be safe. If you use -15, you'll still probably be safe, but I would monitor it closely to make sure you're not sending to much of a clipped signal to the speakers.
  4. Not a good idea. Not a good idea to even run them on different amplifiers but in the same setup. You want to run all the same drivers with the same ohm load or you'll run into more problems than it's worth. Possibly damaging equipment.
  5. I don't know if mine does it, it never has, or I've never noticed it. I look at it as a precision tool so I am extremely careful. I've always been taught a bent level helps no one. It doesn't sound like you'd be the person to drop it or throw it around though. This might sound stupid, but it's work so many other times with the DD1's and CC1's. Change the battery to a brand new Energizer. If that doesn't help, yeah, maybe it's out of calibration. Who knows what happened to it during shipping
  6. I NEED T.P. FOR MY BUNGHOLE! Hehehe.... would you like to see my bunghole?hehehehe
  7. Technically, you should be good. If it where me though, I would just turn off the loudness and redo to steps. I would fear that there would be some songs recorded differently that would cause clipping, but I'm also kind of anal when it comes to stuff like that.
  8. Welcome! If the build is going to be sick, make sure to start a build log. We love to see it
  9. RIP. Fuck cancer! Sorry for your loss everyone. Sad, sad day
  10. How did you go about grounding the rear lithium batteries and dealing with the RVC? Or does it not matter because you "bypassed" the RVC by going externally regulated with the alternator...I ask because I have to deal with the RVC in my truck very soon. Battery delete up front, lithium in the bed.
  11. If you must go Skar, SKv2-3500.1D if you're running at 1 ohm
  12. So, with not knowing exactly what LOC you have.... Usually a level control is the same as a gain. So if you're testing your head unit after the LOC, if the "gain" is turned down on the LOC, it could be effecting the signal going into the DD-1. Just saying, that's a possibility.
  13. I would say if you change the battery and get the same results, you should be able to at least go 3/4 volume at the head unit. There could just be an anomaly at that volume, just enough to tweek the sound wave and set the DD-1 off. The LOC you're using doesn't have any type of gain or level control does it?
  14. I would say the DD-1 it's superior, and it can detect very minute signs of distortion, not just clipping. But I do find out hard to believe your stock head unit is clean all the way up. It's possible, but not probable. This might sound obvious and stupid, but change the battery in the unit to a strong, named brand battery. It's been the issue with problems with the DD-1 more times than I can count. Though it doesn't necessarily seem like you're having a problem with the DD-1 itself. You're head unit might just be pretty good. What kind of LOC are you using?
  15. Been trying to find an empty battery case for my battery relocation and can never find one! Lol
  16. Fake it 'till you make it!
  17. I'll be honest with you....I haven't read the owner's manual yet🤣🤣 it's just sitting in my closet..... waiting
  18. Different speakers and electrical equipment (head units, amplifiers) react differently to different tones. That's why some people when setting their gains will use a couple different tones. What I'm going to do when I figure out my max volume for my head unit and while setting the gain and max volume for my in dash processor is I'm going to send both the 1000 and the 40 hz tone through it and whichever distorts at a lower setting is going to be where I set my gains on my amplifiers. Say I get a max volume of 30 with the 1000 hz test tone but get a max of 28 with the 40 hz test tone, I'm not going past 28
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