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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. What RMS is it rated for at 4 ohm?
  2. Check and see, I dint know much about that amp, but at those higher impedances, you might be getting more power hooking then straight up to the receiver.
  3. You'll be fine, though the power from the amp will be quite a bit lower at the lower impedances
  4. I've read that before. I think that was just an old page they had that they didn't delete or something. That page was easy to find when I ordered my subs years ago. They refer to subwoofers and options that aren't available anymore. Before you order, if you have any concerns, email them. They've always gotten back to me quickly. Have you thought about maybe 3 18's? It's a little more cone area than 4 15's. Not really much though
  5. I can't find on their site where it takes about daily and competition subs. If you know where you saw it, if you can tell me where, if like to read it. The difference between neo and ferrite is, to my understanding, just application. Neodymium magnets are stronger, so you can get away with less magnet than with Ferrite. Basically, you can get more motor force while using less mass. I'm sure there are probably a ton of other pros and cons between the two as well. I'm sure one of the O.G's knows more about all that than I do. The bigger dust cap will help with voice coil cooling as well. You'll be underpowering the 3.7's quite a bit with those RP2000.1's, but that will leave you plenty of room to upgrade in the future if you choose to do so.
  6. Did you link them through the master/ slave RCA output? Or the 2 RCA outputs next to the inputs? I picture of the side of the amps where you connected them would help
  7. Are you using any line out converter or anything between the head unit and the amplifier?
  8. I've never heard anyone say anything bad about Crossfire or Fi, so I don't think you can go wrong with either one.
  9. I ran into this same problem. I just crack the gain a little bit to get the signal light. It seems to still work as expected
  10. Are you planning on upgrading the amps as well? Or just the subs? If just the subs, check out the FI 3.5 subs. 1750 RMS and 34mm of X-Max
  11. What amplifiers would you be using in each scenario? And do you have the room to put each scenario in their optimum enclosure? Do you have electrical upgrades to support up to 2500 watts with no problem? Technically speaking, the 2 12's would probably be louder, by how much, maybe not too much. The 18 has more cone area than the 2 12's, but the 12's can handle a bit more power than the single 18. So really, you'd be looking at maybe a decibel or 2.... maybe. Although that's just a guess. The ugly way to know for sure is to do both and test some numbers
  12. I was thinking that too, but I couldn't find a converter online to see how many cubic feet 130 cubic inches, centimeters, and liters was...I found the math equation.... but....yeeeeaaaaaah.... give me an app to do it for me lol I'm also wondering where his LPF is set, on the amp and (if he has one) on the head unit.
  13. Sabotaz? I've never heard of them. I'll check them out. I used montana cans when doing big pieces because of the versatility they offer and all the colors. The 94 series is cool because the cans are low pressure. It takes a little getting used to, but it help keep from getting drips and helps getting nice, crisp fades. The black and white series is nice because they dry so damn quick! You can layer colors all day. They're also over pressurized, so painting on a windy day isn't so messy. But, the majority of the time....I just went out with whatever the hardware store had in stock lol. We'll see how it turns out. Unless someone comes in here and says "believe me, it'll look like shit" I think that's the plan moving forward. If I don't like it, I'll just do the whole inside white and get it over with.
  14. I feel like, and just being generic here, 2 12" 800 watt RMS subs in a sealed enclosure should net around 1 cubic foot each. Maybe a little more When you say 130 cubes, what do you mean? Inches?
  15. Go to this page https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/products/tm-1 And scroll down until you see the link to download the owners manual
  16. Running at half ohm daily, I personally would go incriminator Audio, or Cresendo Bass Clef with the half ohm warrantee. I've also heard DC Audio does a really good job at half as well. Besides the fact, wiring down that far, on regular music listening, 90% off the time or more, you're amplifier will be seeing over 1 ohm anyway if you want to get technical
  17. I've been painting pieces of my door baffle with rustolium. I read this when I got home, went into the garage, and you're right. I last painted a light 3rd coat on Wednesday night, and while it's not necessarily "wet", it is still tacky and, I guess, soft. So, here's what I'm thinking... Montana 94 matte white (damn that turned out to be a huge ass picture). The only satin I found was that rusto. I had a can of this in my garage left over from my graffiti days. I sprayed it on a piece of MDF, and it turned out not to be a dull, matte finish, but I one could describe it as a shinier matte finish, if that makes sense. I don't think I'd call it a matte to be honest. And this Montana Gold Blue Magic semi- gloss for the top. In my head, the contrast between the matte and the semi- gloss might be pleasing to the eye when adding the LED's? I've been wrong before With the blue, I'm basically trying to match my speaker terminal, without trying to clash too much. It's hard when you don't have the actual paint to look at though and compare
  18. What kind of car is it? Basically, does it have a "high end stock system" that might use a bass roll off in order to protect the stock speakers?
  19. So am I this build has been taking too damn long!
  20. I was planning on putting the LED's above the front port, facing in. The frosted tube is a good idea. I don't need it super bright. Just enough to see in there if I need to. Nothing fancy. I think I'm leaning hard towards at least the white being satin. Looking at the rustolium satin white I was looking for some Montana paint, but satin white is hard to find from Montana
  21. Not to hijack the thread, but I took a screen shot of this. Tons of great information I didn't know. Thank you @SnowDrifter. Tons of great info again!
  22. I didn't think about satin actually. That's a good idea I wasn't taking into consideration cleaning because I don't ever see my fat ass squeezing in through the port to clean it lol. I'm worried about the imperfections part the most. The blue roof wouldn't be too hard to wet sand, but the white rest of the inside would take me a month to wet sand, there's so damn much lol I'm not worried about the sun because it'll all be inside the enclosure. Won't ever see the sun. But that makes me think about the LED's though. The glare on the gloss paint might make it look like shit. I don't know if my vinyl game is strong enough though lol. Here's a picture of the rendering of the inside of the enclosure of it helps any or changes anyone opinion. Front to back, it's about 60". Inside the baffle to the edge is 31¾'s. Just imagine there's an enclosed top on it. He designed it to have a plexiglass top, but I'm not going to do that.
  23. First, you'd be better off with 2 AGM batteries, rather than 2 lead acid batteries. Other than that, as long as the 2 batteries are the same chemistry (lead acid and lead acid), and you're not planning to listen to music with the car off, an isolator isn't necessary. If the batteries are 2 different chemistries, then it would probably be a good idea to use an isolator. Me personally, I wouldn't even run 2 different chemistry batteries together, isolator or not. But what can happen is that the 2 different chemistries have a different resting voltage. With the vehicle off, and no isolator, the 2 batteries start to leach off each other, trying to get both to be the same voltage, and what ends up happening is it can greatly shorten the lifespan of both batteries.
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