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Dafaseles

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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. I was kind of playing with the numbers, but I'm having trouble getting the port tuned to around 32 hz and maintaining 2.6 ft³ with those measurements and keeping the port volume around 14-16 in² per ft³ (sorry, the app I have only does inches, not centimeters unfortunately).
  2. Well, unfortunately, there really no set in stone wattage to wattage equation. There are a lot of different variables. How many speakers are you running on how many amps? Just as an example, 2 6.5" speakers using 50 watts each will generally be louder than a single 6.5" on 100 watts. Same total wattage but different outcomes. Also, sound quality is very subjective. The way I like my mids and highs to blend with my sub stage might sound like absolute crap to you. So to find your perfect balance might take some trial and error depending on how in depth you want to get. My question to you is, are you planning on replacing all those speakers? Or just using a couple of the spaces? My personal opinion is, with that power on your sub stage, I think a good 2 way component set up front (6.5's and tweeters) with a passive crossover, and a decent set of 6.5" coaxial speakers in back, running off an amp that will deliver 100 watts per channel at 4 ohm would do you fine. But again, that's my opinion, not knowing how you like your music to sound. Now, if you're planning on replacing all those speakers, I would think you'd need to go active crossover with a DSP that supports a center channel. The 6.5's in the doors would take care of the 80 to maybe 200 or 400 hz range, then from there the 3.5's would take over up until maybe 3000-4000 hz range, then your tweeters would take care of the rest. The rear speakers weld just be set to full range (if you go with coaxils) with a HPF set around 80 hz. Or, if you don't want to go coaxial, you could use them the same as your door 6.5's. While the center speaker handles more of the frequencies more associated with voice (like the center speaker in a house system). To do all that, you'd need a DSP, or multiple amplifiers. A 6 channel for the doors that is capable of bandpass crossovers for the 3 sets of channels (being able to set a HPF and a LPF). Then another 4 channel for the center and rear speakers, also capable of the same type of crossovers. If you don't differentiate the frequencies between the different size speakers, you'll get blending issues and maybe even some cancelation issues. Sorry for the long answer, I just wanted to try and cover everything
  3. I was just looking at that term pro software last night. You like it? It seemed pretty in depth and legit
  4. I was just thinking maybe the battery wasn't grounded well enough for the 3500 or something, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Hopefully Sundown gets back to you soon
  5. How is your battery grounded? You did the big 3 right? With 1/0 OFC? I'm sure you mentioned it, I can't remember though
  6. I would reach out to Sundown and tell them that very thing. Seems to me if one amp works, if there's nothing wrong with the other, it should work as well.
  7. I looked, I couldn't find the damn manual lol. But that was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you! And I'm sure @Never Enough Bassthanks you too!
  8. I looked online to see if I could find the owners manual to the SIA-3500D, I couldn't.... But check the troubleshooting part of the manual, or, better yet, it might have a specific section on the lights and what different patterns mean. That's where I would start
  9. I did the same thing. My wife picked out the color on going to paint my doors. She found a website that I can order touch up spray paint for my truck. So I'm going to get a couple cans of that. My doors will be the same color of the outside of my truck. Dark labyrinth grey
  10. This is the finished top piece. next, to make the back piece, where the 8's will actually sit
  11. So, this is part of the idea. The 8 will sit on another ring and basically be flush mounted. It moves in and out pretty easily, and doesn't look terrible.... but don't zoom in on the picture 20211107_153112.mp4 20211107_153112.mp4
  12. I don't think they have 3d models, but WinISD and Hornresp are some good programs a lot of people use. You can't use them on your phone unfortunately, you'll have to download the software onto a computer
  13. If I can get the doors done before the beginning of the year, I'll be ecstatic! I know, I know. This is taking forever. Hopefully nothing else goes wrong and I can jam through it
  14. On to try #2 I figured I'd make this one just a single piece. There's a lot more space around the edges for the grill insert, so it's quite a bit taller, but I think it'll still work. I'm going to finish this up, fab up the insert, mount it on the door, then I'll be able to see what I can do to mount the tweeters
  15. If each set of wires coming from each sub reads 2 ohm, the amp will see 1 ohm. That's perfectly fine. Even though it has 2 sets of speaker inputs, they are connected internally, so it's still a single channel amplifier. There are 2 sets for ease of installation. Nothing more. If you wire the subs together to get a final 1 ohm impedance for both, and only connect the 1 set of speaker wires, it'll be the same outcome. Either or. It's up to you
  16. If each set of wires coming from each sub reads 2 ohm, the amp will see 1 ohm. That's perfectly fine. Even though it has 2 sets of speaker inputs, they are connected internally, so it's still a single channel amplifier. There are 2 sets for ease of installation. Nothing more. If you connect them, have a final 1 ohm impedance for both, and only connect the 1 set of speaker wires, it'll be the same outcome. Either or. It's up to you
  17. I don't think you'll get too much of a difference with either 6.5's you decide to go with. They'll be ran off the same power in (what I assume would be) the same size enclosure, or at least close. Either way, I say quality equipment. Pick your poison. But between 1 or 2 6.5's, go 2.
  18. It really depends on what your alternator is rated at. I think 2500 might be pushing it a little as far as a stock electrical on a V6, although, being a dual turbo engine, the high revs might work on your favor. Does your truck have start/ stop? Also, another thing to look at is the charging system and how it works. If I'm not mistaken, those trucks have a voltage sensor in the negative terminal on the battery. I've heard horror stories about upgrading electrical in this trucks. But most have to do with upgrading the alternator. Lastly, to get the absolute most out of your stock system, do the big 3/4 upgrade with some quality OFC cable for maximum current flow. I've also read stories about people having huge problems getting a good ground on the aluminum bodies. If that's the case with you, I've read people just grounding straight to the battery has helped.
  19. So, at this moment, doors 1 - my cousin and I 0. The way I was planning on doing my doors aren't going to work. The way I wanted to mount my grills isn't going to work. Period. I might be able to still use the baffles for the 8's, but I might not. I might have to make them a little bigger. The baffles for the tweeters, in the garbage. Too big, and u have to reverse mount the tweeters. No way around it. On top of that, the material I bought for the grills doesn't want to bend the way I need them to. The finished product would have looked terrible anyway. I'm going to start over. So I bought some new materialHUGE difference! We concluded the old steel was 20 ga and it didn't want to bend. It kept creasing itself. The new material is 22 ga steel, but, as you can see in the picture, has way more open space than the old material. Hopefully this new material works better. It'll damn sure look a lot better in my opinion. If this doesn't want to bend (holding it, it still feels quite stiff) the company I bought it from also has 24 ga. So we'll try it, and go from there.
  20. Measure your old pully diameter, then minus the difference off the new pulley, and then subtract that off the the new belt. That usually works for me.
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