raytard

youre almost shaming my setup..... a 37 and 32 inch flatscreen, so we can watch the game and play xbox at the same time, the 37 has a laptop with wireless keyboard and mouse hooked up, xbox has an optical output to onkyo reciever with sub, center, and rear onkyo and left/right polk studio monitors. both the screens get white junk like you described on certain signals if the sharpness is anything past like 3 of 100, on both tv's its set to 1. its not uncommon for some model tv's to have sharpness at like 50% out of the box, which is just stupid since it tries to take a full resolution image and make it sharper, which it cant to, and it gives you white lines and junk. i definately just played with the slider and watched the white lines go away and come back on my screen.

my boy has a caprice, you can easily get like 9 cubes out of that thing with a drop in box=) the opening can swallow most japanese cars, we thought it was hilarious his entire family could sit in there comfortably. my advice is to throw batteries/amps up ont hat little shelf over the gastank you have by the rear seat, cut some holes in the rear shelf so air can get through, and plop a huge sub/port up box in there. If you fiberglass the bottom and build the box in the car you can basically get 12-15 cubes.

i hate to shoot everyone down, but whats with all this flex stuff, my moderatly loud 12's pop my sunroof and make my windshield wipers dance from the trunk, i dont think its anything special, not to mention my 6.5's in the doors of my old durango definately fogged the mirrors and rattled that piece of shit excuse for a vehicle. numbers and quality matter, not how similar your car looks to jello while its in your trunk. that said, 15in titaniums are nuckin futs subwoofers, few things made compare to those, and personally after hearing 2 15in titaniums with 5kish watts and 2 18in btls of a t4k, i think theyre pretty similar as far as spl, but i must admit that the btls sounded a bit better to me. unless you want to get another amp, go with the ssd's, the q/bl/btl need more power than you can provide, unless you want to do the big three and batteries and a bigger/multiple amps.

assman may have started a revolution with the duckies....u cant be cool in car audio without a duck somewhere now atleast i'm in on it=)

yeaaaa long island people that amp should be fine IF you can keep the voltage up, it draws an assload of current like any 2200+wrms amp will like everyone said before, big 3, h.o. alt, and a spare battery or two.

that is a mad nice install gorgeous work bro

class d almost always has a higher effeciency than an a/b, but now theres like hybrid classes and digital amps, something like alpine pdx's are crazy effecient. idkwhat your pricerange is, but i gotta post my amp of choice up here, 1200rms at 4ohms http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12249_JBL+GTO14001.html and jsut shy of 400 bux apiece

lol@ pyle cea compliant stuff is like 54w@4ohms bridged =) kenwood is almost as bad now though, they slap a big ass red "1000watts!" on the box, and put "max" really small next to it and "300x1@4ohm" in tiny ass letters under it or on the other side.....its a dick move to just slap huge asss numbers like that on there

we had one of those in my highschool like 4 or 5 years back what an awkward moment when you notice you teacher likes to touch little kids, mad kids went to catholic school after that, i guess getting touched by priests wasnt so abd

its like a bandpass, only wrong =) but for real, ive seen a few setups like that and most of them sounded like junk, most of the time the best i could say about them was that it was punchy. they never were louder than 2 subs in a sealed box, and never much punchier either, as far as im concerned might as well stay sealed.

could be worse....600 bux doesnt even start to cover my charging system.... when iw as in highschool i had an infinty 1600a and a CVR dual 12 inch box, an alpine, and rockford 4 inch interiors and had the loudest system by a longshot. went to a car show sorta thing and realized i had a long way to go.... people will stop once they realize how fucking gay they are.... (this is from someone with a 5k system in a 95 toyota....)

noone can look at what you have and tell you what its going to hit build it and see what it does, if youre not happy, rebuild, improve, and try again 147 is definately doable with 1500watts in a hatch, ive seen it with 200 watts in a t-line and single ten....experiment, learn, and improve

r4y14rd im sure my roomate is playing right now, probably doesnt know how to accept a friend invite, so i will when i get back to the dorms on sunday

posted up at the gas station at the proline show=) i'll vouch that all of this stuff is good and if biggboy doesnt want the EV's, pm me, im looking to add a center console to my car this winter if i could find some nice mids

im not a fan of the sound of p2's and i have seen quite a few cracked cones on them, and cracked cones are honestly pretty uncommon all things considered. kicker cvr's can be had for like 75-80 bucks for 12's amd will easily hold 400 watts if you wanted to throw that much at it, i had 2 on a 700ish rms amp for months and never had a problem with it, and theyve gone through like 3 different owners so far and are still going strong. infinity reference/jbl gto (theyre the same, just different dustcap basically) will also hold down that power and are un the sub-100 dollar price range, they also have a real nice sensitivity, i think its like 94 or 96, not to mention a good sound.

theres always tricks to eliminating engine noise, filters work to some extent, using common ground and power for the headunit/amps works wonders on some cars (run a like 14 or 16g speaker line from the power and ground line of the h/u to the rear batteries or bussbars that the amps are hooked to) or ground the h/u to the amp chassis, or run twisted pait rca cables....theres literally dozens of tricks but those are the msot reliable.

my mom actually showed me how to do the vinyl thing one day, she laid down a base coat, sprayed on a thick second coat once it dried and dabbed it with a newspaper to make creases and stuff, came out pretty nice

those hid's are like some mass produced chinese ballasts that different companies slap their own stickers on and sell it in a kit with harness and bulb we had a huge stack of those we sold one weekend at like 80$ a pop, put both high and low beam into my car, looks great, bright as hell, and no problems in a year and some, i just pulled my headlights out and screwed the ballast mounts to the frame rail underneath, so everything is hidden, and then ziptied the harnesses all together word of caution, the oval connector that clips to the stock harness pulls out sometimes, put a ziptie around it to keep it snug (like between the two wires, around the plug, through the other two wires, and then zip it tight)

looking at it again, plan b.... wrap it from the top to the back/bottom, and then run a ring around the center and stitch it in, so theres a seam along each side of the hole and everything else is one large stretched piece.

ive never done interior work, but just my 2 cents, what if you did it kind of like an inner tube? like basically made two rings with the vinyl on the inside and wide enough to cover basically half of it (assuming that the subs are in line and the top/front, so from the center of the top to the center of the bottom), sewed two of those together, fed it through the center hole, stretched it up and over, and then sitiched it down the center, so theres a front to back seam along the center, one along the center around the cutout, and then wherever the rings are joined at the ends. or you can find a way to do spray on vinyl texture....

some girls at a local sorrority called me to fix the same thing, hallway dome light flickered if someone ran up the stairs. i took it apart and it looked like one of the soldered on connections to the socket was bad, i kinda just bent it in with a screwdriver and called it a day cuz im too lazy to play electrician in the middle of a friday afternoon, works fine now, no more flickering. if its the kind they had, where its a base and a plastic socket mounted parallel to the cieling where the bulb goes, try wiggling it.

problem is, i go to school 400 and some miles from home and dont want to find an upholstry place up here, i guess i'll just pick up some from home when i go back next time

have a source for that? its for a toyota avalon, same tan interior, im guessing the same shade and whatnot, atleast on my monitor that looks perfect. i'm guessing its put on similar to vinyl? spray glue and an assload of stretching?

what kind of covering is that? some kind of carpet? suede? fleece? I think that color/material would match my car really well for finally wrapping my pods

well, i reckon your girl is worth more or less 78 camels, 7 goats and 0 sheep hmmmm....if only she was blonde