raytard

this is like watching the special olympics.... who the hell is making such a big deal over something that takes 30 seconds, that we've all seen done better, and that proves nothing a "3000 watt" amp powering 500wrms 15's, and "4800 watts" of kole power in the other whip, aka almost what i put to my pair of highs in my front doors.

http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...CFVw55QodnTEAKg deh-510ub f/r/s 4v outputs, 7band eq, high/low pass, DSR for your digital music, 2 year warrantee (if you get it from an authorized place anyhow) you can choose songs from the ipod or the radio (actually really easy to use, has all the ipod functions and a dot matrix display, as well as alphabet search and link search.) i know you said alpine, but i ditched my alpine for the older version of this and have never looked back, for the price its probably the best on the market imo.

unbiased, these more than keep up with the l7's. i was very surprised with how these and the 55 series performed. that said, similar to my l5/l7 experiences, they start to stink with anything much over rms, and eventually blow. smallish coil with a big magnet. i mean, a friggin morel 3in mid has a much bigger voicecoil on it, lol. they do have a lot of excursion and work really well in those mtx prefab boxes, but i'd get one of the woofers all of us forum members love (dd/fi/dc/aq/rd/psi/etc) over anything from the big brands anyway. (save for 8102spl's...not much out there compares)

alot of shops hand cars to customers with the bass maxed and the gain low. we sometimes have to take pictures of the gain knob and put blacktape over it just to discourage people from messing with it. if someone brings back 3 brand new amps or subs in a week, its usually not 3 defective amps in a row... but in their words "if the amp couldnt take it the knob wouldnt turn that far", and what the hell do I or the instruction manual know about how to set a gain or bassboost? and thanks beanz, she is kinda bangin, and im OD happy to be back for winter break and get to see her everyday.

customers rule of thumb is you max the eq, bass boost, volume, and remote knob if available and tune the gain from there. as soon as they roll out theyre going to do it anyway. the average consumer will never understand how it all works, how it has to be tuned, etc. they just know that it gets louder if they put bassboost all the way up, and they want it loud, so thats what they will do. hence, tuning radios with max volume and bassboost and eq just so when they put it back that way, it may sound like crap with the 24db boost of bass, but atleast the amp and subs can take it.

some cars are reaaaaaaly easy to get into. accords can be popped in under a minute with no damage even by an amateur (aka me) those 30 secs cost you like 50-80 bux though huh?

i have like 40 games on my steam account that havent been touched in the longest time since my gaming rig died my little laptops cant play anything more advanced than a flash game, and even then the crazy ones lag up =/ is cs:s coming to consoles like the last cs did? tbh cs on consoles was way more fun for me, less cheaters/hackers/laggers and everyone was on an even platform, no hacked resolutions to give fisheye views, or crazy 5 button mice or anything like that. same hardware, same software, same input devices=level playing field(aka, i got my ass whooped on pc)

you can wall anything go for it

depends where you go and how fancy you get, but 200-1300 a seat is kind of what youre looking at

dont believe every sign you read at the flea market....caps dont do much if you get bored go do some math on a farad's relation to current and reserve and prove it to yourself.

im also in the higher voltage in the cold, its dipped well into the 20's here and is going to be in the single digits this coming week agm is more responsive to cold than lead acid, but function to -40f apparently. Even leaving mine sitting for a week doesnt get them to drop much under their normal 12.9, and they charge a bit higher in the cold (14.6 compared to 14.4 or 13.8 if its been beat in the heat) if youre charging at 12, its something with the alt, or a dead cell in a batt. try disconnecting the rear kinetik and leave the duralast underhood. if the voltage rises by the end of the day, the back battery may be in need of some sulfide destroying high voltage refreshing. if not, the alt is gone, and its time to look for an alternative, and considering you have 2 big batts its probably time to find a proper h.o.

there may be 4 holes on the terminal block, but the 2 + and 2 - are internally paralleled, so thats why the amp would see .5 ohm and it can take it, but its putting a whole lot more stress and heat on the amp and current draw on the system

i mean, its small enough to keep hidden in your trunk, and emitts 1800 watts. sounds fantastic to me.

the jbls are sick, just do yourself a favor and wire it to 2 ohms off a jbl gto1400. it will give you all the power you need for 4 of them and its only like 400 bux.

oswego ftl...i had like a half dozen incedents last year in my car. I slid sideways down a hill, through an intersection, and into a snowbank one day. the next day, couldnt stop at a stopsign with cars infront of me, so i slid over the curb, between a sign and a pole (breaking part of my bumper on the snowbank) over the sidewalk, and then finally stopped. luckily nothing really happened. on the way home, the hwy is 3 lanes, and the right 2 were plowed during this like blizzard of a snowstorm. There were some semi's doing like 15mph in the right lane, and i was doing maybe 20 in the middle. as we crested a hill, the truck next to me just jackknifed and the rear wheels came towards me, so I moved towards the left (unplowed) lane, caught the berm of snow, spun a full 180 (now sliding backwards down the hill next to an out of control semi). The girls i was driving home are screaming, and the semi jackknifes back towards me and the wheel comes right up to my window, taps the car ever so slightly (like a 1inch long black mark on my door) and then he got control and got out of my way. Everyone behind us was watching and stopped so they didnt do it to, so i kinda spun back around and went to the nearest rest stop to change my pants. then closer to home on long island, some dick was on his cell in a honda fit and caught the snow bank between the left lane and HOV lane. The car behind him merged right, and i was behind that guy, boxed in with a spinning fit behind me. I had to accelerate past an ass in the HOV lane, over the snow bank he just spun out in, making my car slide all over the damn place again with girls screaming, we were both like 90 degrees sideways to the hgihway as we slid past bumper to bumper with an inch to spare, and then i ended up back in the left lane like nothing happened and he got hit basically head on by a volvo

http://sneakerbistro.blogspot.com/ my local shoe place, but he'll ship stuff out if you want usually. Place is so legit they have their own limited edition signature shoes and g-shock, lol. Stock a lot of limited edition or hard to find stuff. I kinda rock DC versatiles all the time. Limited color runs so noone has the same shoe, and theyre comfy as hell (even if youre like me and on your feet 10-12 hours a day.) I have some dunk high snowshoes too (all nylon, like snowpants material, all waterproof) and some Mike Shinoda xander high's. I'd kinda rather have stuff that noone's seen before than the hot shoe of the month.

generally you want to keep a consistant model of speaker in your front stage. some people on here are insane and have the technical know how and processing power too make 2 random brands work together flawlessly, others just didnt care. in most cases two separate brands will give you two different response curves and therefore cancelation/distortion/funky sounds/destroy staging

just get funky pups 210 dollars of those should leave about a 5km crater if you were crazy enough to give them that much power. otherwise, cant go wrong with dc imo...but its all preference, get out to some shows and see whats what for yourself, you may hate my taste in subs or just be looking for something else.

kicker cvr box is the most popular box in the world for a reason, its loud and sounds good and they take a beating and 600 watts is 100% of that box's rms...those subs are 300 apiece rms, 600 for the box, or 1200 max (but from testing, 1000 watts for 30 secs frys them)

w3's are basically an ok sq sub, a kicker cvr will basically kick their ass any day in the lanes. and AQ is a nasty brand. I saw 2 hdc3 10's break 150 with <5kw. aq would definately be a good way to go, and their amps are damn good as well. 2 of their subs and 2 aq2200's and you should be able to break 150, a few other people have with that equipment already

im not a fan of the newer, or lower end stuff the old h/u's were amazing for their time, but the new ones get overshadowed by pioneer and kenwood, same goes for most of their speakers. old type x 3-ways were bomb though. in general, i wouldnt run them, they went the way of Bose, lower quality, less innovation, higher prices, and got themselves more "mainstream"

just keep in mind, 3k may get blown real quick...and thor does 150 with <4kw clamped, its that huge stetsom that lets him do the 151.6. and OP, just remember a good alt is usually in the 500$ price range, a battery is about 400, and wiring will likely run another 500 after all the fuses/solder/wire/rca's/distroblocks/terminals/etc. that means you're halfway through your budget before you actually buy any audio equipment, and if you decide to run 2 or more batts, you can blow 2/3 of tthe budget easily.

looking good, im mad interested to see what that extra cone does. and chode, its worse when he beats you and you have 3 18's and more power than him, lol

subs forward and sealed from the trunk is loudest in a sedon usually http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=48050 is thor's build but if you wanna be doing 150 legal out the trunk, expect to dump close to 10 g's when its all said and done and spend a lot of time tweaking the box and such. 460 doesnt even cover the wiring in my car....

3 dc xl18's, 4500rms, sub forward port up half wall at 30hz, does an easy 148.5 on music, and stays within a db from 25-40 hz i dont suggest walling your DD though, im regretting it. lok at thorshammer's build, he does easy 151+ with 2 10's in the trunk