emperorjj1

right also remember you want to use the material on big flat areas. and for the best results i would deaden both the inner and outer door panels. outer does the most for sound (in most cases) and inner is the icing on the cake and often can help speaker performance as well

I cant really answer that because you goal in itself was contradicting. You said you've got used to luxury quiet and want to make your car as quiet as a Mercedes but then later stated you wanted to get a quiet car without spending more then $600 The main question you have to ask yourself being a minimalist is will you be satisfied with good or do you want great? a 30 year old car is a horrible platform to work with BUT 25% coverage of damp or damp pro and 100% floor coverage LLP (with as much vertical coverage as you can get as well) would be a huge improvement.... but it wont be perfect and it wont be a mercades (yes i know im sure you aren't expecting that in all actuality) now LLP vs LL. im sure just LL works fine but how the barrier works or at least how i understand it to work is the foam decoupler is a pretty big component in the product. The LL vinyl is thicker then LLP so combined with overkill pro it would be a better preforming product but LL shouldnt be used alone unless thats the only option (thickness)

for the OP looks like your on the right track and if your just looking to quiet a stock car 25% is good (just remember when installing placement makes a huge difference as well) for post 2 if your concerned with heat id look into the heatwave pro vs LLP. LLP does a better job with the sound but if i was in your shoes then heat would be my number 1 concern. Plus HWP does do a pretty good job with sound just not quite as well as LLP and its cheaper too

get the paint on contact adhesive not the spray can. and put it on both surfaces http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dap-Weldwood-Original-Contact-Cement-32-oz/17243981 http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/adhesives-tape/dap/32-fl-oz-weldwood-original-contact-cement-54249.html#.UCslGT2PV8E http://www.lowes.com/pd_41161-68-00271_0__?productId=3033216&Ntt=dap+weldwood+contact+adhesive&Ns=p_product_brand_name|0||p_product_description|0&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_brand_name%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_description%7C0&facetInfo=

ya e-mail sounds like the best route http://www.secondskinaudio.com/index.php/contact-us

ya um thats probably not going to do anything fyi... what car do u have?

well there you go as long as your not 100% spl gains then id do plenty of damp pro on the roof. I was in the same position with my cobalt other then the noise (it had major flex but idk maybe bc new car it didn't make much noise from the roof at least) i did almost 100% damp pro coverage on the roof and added an addtional layer in the middle of the big flat patches. It took care of the noise and made it so it didnt look like my car was going to break in half anymore

right im not saying the hardboard support on the roof wont help with flex but the CLD on the hardboard is the drop in the bucket if you know what i mean.

deadening hardbord isnt necessarily a good idea because a CLD is inneffective really on wood. the whole gluing the hardboard to ur roof thing may work but considering how much more work it is over a proper CLD like damplifier pro i wouldnt look at doing that out of the gate

Buy more then you need and apply then test. If you doing it for SPL then yes applying sound dampening can lower the score. BUT in SPL the race for .5 anything you do can lower the score. all the "general rules of thumb" can lower or improve your score. Like you said thou if its that bad im sure it will help but that doesn't mean it will.

if u order today earliest would be tomorrow since u posted 9:48pm. and if ur on some sort of deadline you should probably call them directly

lol my bad sorry didnt read it all the way thru

u need to control the rust first. damp does not stick to rust and yes ive tried

ive never used audio technix but if ur only buying 69.99 of material id go with the 20sqft of damp vs the 10 of damp pro

just 9 months bro but in for responce

if thats the case then both dampfilier and damp pro will fit the bill as far as making it sound less like a bunch of tin cans. With the amount your looking at buying and a proper installation ull get that with either product. So your now down to how much of a difference. you have the good vs the great (carwash metaphor)

Ken ur the bestest

maybe jon can chime in but with a system there's no answer for how much exactly to eliminate rattles. you can go 25% which is generally the point of less return but 25% doesnt end all eliminate all rattles. The problem is your trying to "eliminate" rattles when speakers by definition create them. Its all acoustics and panel shape/ rigidity ect If your worried about being satisfied id almost say go big or go home but honestly its all personal satisfaction really. i mean ill be honest ive spent a hell of a lot on SSA in my car BUT i kept going and going because i wanted it quieter and quieter.

oh and 200 for the 3rd break light is fucking insane

mines on the trunk. IMO its way better for them to be there vs inside. ive taken mine apart thou and i can see how it would easily break but im sure theres a way to rig it up to stay better then factory. do u have any pics of what urs looks like? from the inside

the thing is that not all vehicles are created equal. i dont have any personal experience with that gen lancer unfort but if i was in your shoes id spend a couple hundred on some damp pro or alpha damn and see what happens. dont expect the world thou it could be a design flaw in the lights or acoustics kicking you in the ass

what generation lancer do you have? oh and the music video for vibrate is pretty much MTX marketing, its about as real as spongebob

alpha damp is no longer being sold as a second skin product

nice just change the img tag to url for the link im not sure how to embed the vid thou

thats stupid if u hold the flashlight you can move the light 30 degrees when turning and bamb lexus logo on the back