BJD3

nb4l also, lulz and if so, y so? ^^ truf. WTH happened to GRITS?

I didn't think it would be that big a deal. Now I know...and knowing is half the battle. GI JOE! @knowledge Word.

http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/latitude-e6420/pd?oc=blct64s4ds&model_id=latitude-e6420 http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m4600/pd?oc=bwct74b&model_id=precision-m4600 http://shop.lenovo.com/us/products/laptops/thinkpad/w-series/index.html (I'd buy a ThinkPad.) http://shopping1.hp.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/WW-USSMBPublicStore-Site/en_US/-/USD/ViewProductDetail-Start?ProductUUID=t98Q7EN5mSEAAAEvmqht8LIC&CatalogCategoryID= http://shopping1.hp.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/WW-USSMBPublicStore-Site/en_US/-/USD/ViewProductDetail-Start?ProductUUID=.uwQ7EN5djsAAAEv.adt8LIC&CatalogCategoryID= I'm assuming you don't want a 17 inch? I know Gateway used to be solid. I absolutely loved mine, even after the power plug came desoldered from the board, and you had to wedge something underneath it for it to maintain contact enough to charge. Then a year and a half after that it finally shorted out and I had to replace it. This is after owning the computer for almost four years. It was time to replace it anyway. Before that, we were a 100% Gateway household. But by the time it came around to replace my computer, Acer had bought them, and I'm no fan of Acer. I don't know how they are now that Acer bought them out. I don't know how long Acer computers will last, but I do know I didn't like the feel of the couple I've laid hands on. Really cheap plastic. I also know they are supposed to be making an attempt to push themselves upmarket, but . To be fair, I have never owned an Acer. I've only used a couple my uncles had.

And dell is shit ? our company runs dell pc's for 6 years now, no real problem at all, once the hard drive faild , next morning there was a ups van with the new one, that's what is call service. So i dont get the whyning about dell... Everyone is complaining because they like to buy entry level computers. Which almost universally have sub-par build quality. Alienware is solid, but again, overpriced. And even then, Dell's older entry level stuff was solid. I have a 2007 era laptop that is slow as hell but functions like new save the lid that has a little play in it.

Unless you are buying hp's pro book line PR an envy, I'd avoid them. Same goes with Dell. Business class or XPS. Apple makes good stuff, but for what you would want, you would likely have to get the 15 inch which (IMO) is heavily overpriced. If you don't mind the price though, you will be getting quite the machine. Not the most powerful, but still an overall good package. Don't buy Asus at BestBuy. They nerf them. Not sure about other brands though. They may differ. The Asus listed above that looks like a jet fighter will not give you the battery life you would want. You are looking at an hour and a half at best. I have the G53JW. I know this. beside that though, I love mine. If you do decide to get it, buy a bit of speaker gasketing foam and stick it under the keyboard. It's a little too flexy for my tastes. Asus support is likely second to none. You call, someone answers almost immediately, and it isn't Bob from India whom you can't understand. Iv read of several people getting RMAs even while outside of warranty window. HP support will leave you hanging a week outside of warranty for something that is obviously a defect. I'm never buying an HP again. Sony makes good stuff. Look into the Vaio Z. You will also want to look for nvidia optimism graphics switching. I think that will be the only way you hit both your performance and battery life goals. Actually, you would probably be better off buying a business class laptop since the graphics cards they use are more cad/Maya oriented than consumer gaming lines are.

Well I would hope so! Looks good man.

My box isn't really on it. My box still sits a good 2 inches above the amp. I'm thinking about mounting the amp on the box but I'm not sure yet. Don't. You have the space to mount it elsewhere. Mounting it to the box can cause the amplifier to fail. Does it always happen? No. Would you really want to take the chance?

I'd really like someone from Fi to step in and correct me if I'm wrong. I though the N3 was a ultra high power subwoofer for someone wanting a numbers oriented vehicle that's still capable of playing music, while the SG was burp only. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the N3 would be a good choice for this guy.

There's a clamp test floating around somewhere. It will do at least rated. I don't remember if it went way over what it was rated at, or if it was just in the general vicinity though. I'm not currently in the market for a mono amp, so I didn't try and retain the info.

Don't think you'll be able to sell it here though. If I remember correctly, if you want to sell anywhere on the site, you have to have 150 posts or more.

hmm never thought of that, just labeling them all as decaf for the artist and then album put what zip its from, that could work. thanks man, i knew if i got enough people to post i would find a solution that i liked is your ipad in the dash? if not how do you have it easily accessible? It is. Not nearly as clean as most people that do it, but it works. I ghetto rigged it. lol

[citation needed] cough

My wood working experience is very, very limited and had no problem with my router, even with it being fixed based. Was buying a router a good investment? Likely not.

Are you going to be dropping a shit ton of weight in it or dropping it?

The whole back seat of a double cab Tacoma. I'm just putting it in the seat. And if i save money on the subs i can go with a bigger amp. Bad idea. Mount it down somewhere. If you get in an accident, you will then have a 20-50 pound projectile right behind your head.

I don't think I've ever heard of a gain knob going past what the amplifier is set at. And on the AQ, the knob's max is what you have the gain set to on the amplifier itself. In other words, if your gain is set properly, when you go all the way up, it should be about the same as if the knob wasn't there. I say about the same because when you plug the knob in, for whatever reason, output decreases. Try it. Plug the knob in, turn it all the way up, and then unplug it. If I have to get another knob (and I eventually will have to since this one is going out) I'm getting the PAC LC1. It doesn't have that issue.

Please, please, PLEASE! When quoting a post, stop quoting every single picture, especially if you post consists of a word or two not specifically related to them. If you are trying to point out something in a single picture, it is possible to only quote one of them. It's more than a little annoying to have a screen full of quoted material only to get down to what the post actually is and see a single word, especially when its only a couple posts into the thread. At this point in the thread, clarifying what you're referring to isn't necessary since the logical conclusion would be you're responding to the OP. This isn't me even getting into the multi-quote hell that's been occurring. Though I personally find it a somewhat easier to deal with walls of text than I do three or four pictures back to back to back. Please people, help me keep my sanity. [end transmission]

Just remember, you'll need to get a dual 4 sub and wire down to 2 ohms since that (those) amplifier(s) isn't/aren't 1 ohm stable. Basically, the 3000 is two 1500s strapped. So when you wire to 2 ohms, each 1500 is seeing 1 ohm. Just in case you didn't already know this. Don't want you buying an amp and instantly smoking it!

Separated by ZIP, with Decaf as the Artist, on my iPad. This iPad is the best money I've spent since my laptop. Having spent quite some time trying to muddle through organizing music on flash drives for car audio, I finally gave up and started using my phone. Then I got my iPad and started using that. Honestly, I'll never go back to using a USB port unless its for a quick testing of a song/the couple demo songs I keep for easy access.

This the one with the russain guy?

www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn154e28e452125c1/shopdata/0080_Recones/0020_NON+Fi+Recone+Shop/product_overview.shopscript You'll want enoceR-XS-ER.

http://fixmyspeaker.com/ProductList.php?CatID=18

Does it need to be portable? Does it have to be a pre-assembled external hard drive? Is price a factor?

I haven't really used that calculator much so ill have to tweak it a bit, i might have taken a pic of the wrong dimensions in the calc, the model is build right I will go and fix the program though, thanks for pointing that out for me. the bracing was an after thought I will add that in right away. Just so I can learn a little more what constitutes as a common port wall? I could probably guess but would rather get the right info. Again thanks for the criticism tis how I learn. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-310/

You have three common port walls, you didn't take out the displacement of the subs or bracing. How are you going to get a height of 13.75?