creyc

I'm looking to buy two 18" Fi BLs, fully loaded. Must be 2008 or older, fully loaded, D1 coils. Or motors and baskets.

How many subs are sharing this amp?

Audioque's amps are pretty nice for the money, too.

Did you hear it before and after polyfill by any chance? Would be interested to hear your opinions

Aired exclusively on...youtube? Interesting...

shot at a bar fight? really? more infoz!

lolol nice

Other scenario would be the alternator putting strain on the engine, (they can use 5HP or more on their own) thus causing your engine to rev up higher also increasing oil pressure.

No. Resistance doesn't affect phase, it affects how much power the sub will see. Throw in 100 feet of wire and both subs will still be in phase. One sub will just be seeing less power than the other. Speed of light is pretty fast, afterall. Your issue is either 1) sub wired out of phase, check with battery! or 2) loading issues cause by the box or unequal airspace to each sub or 3) it's all BS and you're just seeing things. 30Hz is still 30 times per second, which is what your TV operates at... Most likely cause being #3, imo.

142.3 TL legal.

Where abouts do you live? You need to find a REALLY good shop and tell them exactly what you want, I don't think we will be able to help you very much from online. Except with simple stuff like picking out amps and subs. Shops tend to push their own product, which may not always be the best choice for the end user. Extended cab F-150 non-walled, I'm seeing (2) 18" BTLs ported, MAXIMUM. Rockford or Sundown amps would be my preference if you have the money.

Have him take the wires off the amp and briefly touch the + and - to a 9v battery. ALL the cones should move either up or down, together. If they do, and it still looks weird, it's just an optical illusion.

At a point CD players are just no match for the bass. I can get about 20 seconds into some songs before they start skipping, so I stick to iPod.

...And they're still slamming very hard I switched from Havocs to BLs and don't mind the sound quality difference for the added SPL. And for those who don't know, Havocs are basically fully loaded Qs.

I'm with jack, I wanna see some inside pictures

Thats awesome. Looks violent as hell in there! Level 3 15s are the cause for this mayhem? haha, awesome. How many if you don't mind me asking? And it looks like they're taking quite a load of power from the looks of all those stetsom amps..

Not too long ago the BTL was one of the biggest forum boners i've seen. It seemed like everyone HAD to have one. I'm not too quick to jump on the bandwagon, but if the product stands up to the test of time and is STILL crazy popular, only then do I feel the product may be a "boner" for a reason. DC seems to be the latest boner, but I'm sure once the SMD woofer is out there will be increased attention on Ascendant. It's just how things go

RCA will be fine for your tiny car screen. You said that was its only input, correct? If so, that's your limiting factor and no matter how high quality video adaptor device you get, you're still limited to using composite RCA video due to your screen.

Yes, for me deadening and door treatment did almost as much as putting in seperate speakers instead of coaxials. Definitely take care of the doors first before investing money in more speakers.

In addition to what others have posted, in some subwoofer designs the lack of a pole vent can also increase magnetic strength in the bottom plate by putting more metal around the coil. I believe I read this from some Fi article maybe on ***?

Sealing is the only issue I foresee holding you back, but with enough ingenuity I'm sure something could be built. The whole concept just seems a bit...odd however. I can understand wanting something that sounds good, and also getting loud but those are usually two very different setups. Your best bet to get around the things IH8PunkRok mentioned would be to do a low tuned daily box (30 Hz or so) with removable plugs that could tune it higher near your resonant frequency.

Run one crossover per set or you will burn up the crossover. Alternatively you can run either an active compatible head deck or a multi channel amp with full HPF/LPF and run 3-way active and ditch the crossovers altogether.

My '01 4-door blazer is 38" between wheel wells, 36" deep, and about 17" to window line. Basically you can fit about 10 cubes in the cargo area after port and with clearance to the tailgate with the back seats up.

pretty sure he means the energy drink called "amp". But I too figured he was looking for some sorta bulk discount on amplifiers lol

Also from your build thread I noticed your box (and port) sits pretty close to the rear gate. Only about 4" clearance behind the port I'm thinking? When I had my box in this position it was very noticeably less output. I've got it at about 8" of clearance now and it's quite a bit louder. If you fold your back seats down you can slide the box forward, I wouldn't be surprised if it got louder for you