kickass audio

The other guy is right for how that is but how i put it is the way you figure it out. Its a pain in the ass until you figure it out. It took me a whole month trying to learn it before it finally clicked and believe me when i say that if you dont keep doing it, you will forget it FAST. Keep practicing and you will do well.

The only difference in fuses is the manufacturer and how fast they blow. Slow blow fuses will take longer to pop as opposed to fast blow fuses. Most of the high amperage ones for car audio are slow blow anyways. I got a bunch off of darvex.com This is what i used: http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Sound-Quest-300-Amp-ANL-Platinum-Finish-Fuse-59p794.htm They work great for me but i never over loaded them so idk how fast they blow but they are great for my needs.

The number after the slash represents the number of bits borrowed. Since ipv4 addresses are 32 bits total (8 bits per octet) you can never have more than a /30 for the number of bits borrowed as if you do then you have no way to get a broadcast and network address from it. Now if you for example receive an ip address that is setup as 10.11.12.13/16 that means that the first two octets of your ip address will NEVER change. The reason for this is that as mentioned the first 2 parts of the ip address represent 16 octets. Now that we have two full octets taken up they will remain "locked" and we cannot change it. Thus the ip address will start off as 10.11 and after that is where you start to subnet. Subnetting is a pain in the ass trust me, ive taken CCNA 1-4 twice and i always hate doing it but tbh when you are out there in the real world most of the time people do that shit with calculators and its a done deal. There are so many different ways to subnet such as the good old binary (thats a great way to start out in my opinion) or jumping straight into understanding the slash portions of the subnet you are given to hand out. edit: this may be helpful to understand it a bit more: http://www.aelius.com/njh/subnet_sheet.html

I read my manual for it and it seems like you got it however you should really set the gains with it at full pass. Then afterwards set it up with the cc-1 for normal use to adjust the x-overs. Thats how i think its getting messed up. I did that and even though my amps arent set anywhere near 40Hz for the sub stage it had fucked with the gain volume and everytime i adjusted the gain with my dd-1 it would change a bit if i were to completely disable the x-over. I always play with the gains FIRST then i do the x-overs. That way i can be assured the entire signal is clean and perfect before i chop parts of it off. edit: i would honestly not use the -5db for this. You should do this to the master amp (in your case the 2 channels you want to use as "master") FIRST so that the amp is at its max output you want for that attenuation THEN you go to the 0db tones that are on the cc-1 as thats what its expecting. Set the amp and everything before it to full pass and follow the instructions for the manual to match the gains. That im willing to bet is whats fucking you up.

Go with the first drawing all the way the second one will totally butcher the signal going to the speakers connected off that tweeter output plus you can fry that x-over made for the tweeters and mids. For using it with the headunit you deff want to make it so that for the 4 channel outputs on the radio that they go individually to the 4 x-overs. For example your front left mid & tweeter should have that hooked to the front left of your headunits outputs. Also for that you are not bi-amping the signal so you would then hookup the outputs from the headunit to the mid input on the x-overs. You will love hearing these with higher power for sure, i run these in my truck and i love them. The tweeters arent all that awesome for my liking from messing with ascendant audio mayhem tweets i have but they do their job well. If you have questions let me know. edit: the axis should be set to on if the speaker is aimed toward your ears, off axis if aimed away from your ears. I personally never noticed any difference in it so it really shouldnt bother anything to use it or not as long as everything is hooked up right. Now for the attenuation if you have the tweeter setup in a low spot like low in your doors you want it to +2db to help louden the tweeter and get the high notes up to your ears. If the tweeter is mounted up high like you wanted by your mirrors you should use 0 or maybe even -2 if its too loud and crackly sounding for your liking. Its kinda like boosting or cutting down the signal, you never want to hear the tweeters crackling or making like hissing noises when playing music, thats overdriving them and your just asking to burn out the diaphragm on the tweeter.

bump. if anyone has an offer shoot it to me. I have no need for it and its just sitting in my room waiting to be used by someone.

Up for sale is my second Massive Audio DB8000. This amp is fully functional and in mint condition. The only flaw is that the feet where the mounting screws go has a little trace of paint that came off of them but the rest of it is 10/10 and it was even waxed the day i got it out of the box. lol. The specs of it are 4000w rms at .5 ohms. 2000w rms at 1 ohm, 1200w rms at 2 ohms and 650w rms at 4 ohms. This is under rated as i clamped just over 4kw at .8 ohms after impedance rise at 13.9v of power from the batteries. I love how the amp looks when its in use and at night because the massive audio logo on the heatsink glows blue and its bright and looks awesome. This picture is of the guts on the other amp which was the same model as this one that i blew up. This amp im selling in here was never opened up and never blown. Id take 450 shipped anywhere in the continuous US or best offer for the amp.

I never cut fiber optic cable before but it can be a pain and if its small enough it can stab right through your skin like its nothing so be super careful with it. What i would do with it would maybe to get some bright led's and cut the cable to go around the outside of your subwoofer and elevate it so it sits just above the sub and mount the led's in each end of the optical cable. I would paint one half of the cable black though so you get the most light pointing down to your sub. Kinda like making a neon sign, the backs are painted black to get as much light to reflect off one side of the sign that everyone is reading. That would look pretty cool to me. And maybe if you can get it warmed up and malleable you can bend it around areas on your doors and put it in there too to illuminate. Just tossing ideas out there, the call is all yours but that would look pretty cool to see.

I have a working Massive Audio DB8000 amp that is actually .5 ohms stable from the factory and i clamped just over 4kw of power at .8 ohms on it after impedance rise. It has single 1/0 power and ground inputs and 2 positive and 2 negative 8ga speaker outputs on it and an awesome blue backlit logo on the case of the amp. Id do 400 shipped anywhere in the continuous US. If you are like 99% of the rest of the guys on SMD here is a guts shot of it (it isnt the amp im selling, i opened up my other one which is the exact same model amp. i bought two of them for my SMD awhile ago)

I got my email and update on the order that it was shipped. Two VU dins and a XS HF 12v intellicharger are mine. YEAA!!!!

The banana is Juan Rodriguez's stamp. The guy that is printed on the PCB is Tony D'Amore. My 3sixty.2 has tony's name on it since he designed part of the system. Its more of a thing RF did and since Juan and Tony worked there they still do it to show who designed and came up with the system. I took apart my DD-1 and CC-1 as well and they had the same printings on them for their names. I cant wait to get my two vu-1's for my truck. Im still thinking of a place to mount them at since they are too big to stuff in my dash and the center console has no room at all with the stupid shift knob being in there. I had an idea to use the headliner but that may be kinda bad since when i get super low notes that headliner moves as much if not the same as my sub moves and that would probably snap the boards in half from flexing them. If i had enough room id relocate my HVAC controls and shove them in my center console under the storage compartment. Ill see when i get them. Steve had them ready to ship and called me today when i wasnt home and said one part of my order (probably the xs intellicharger) was not in stock until next week. Either way i dont need them right away but im still happy to have gotten Steve to let me know what was going on, not be surprised that 2 weeks later my items arrive at home lol. So thanks Steve!! actually the vu-din wont be in till next week, duhh!! I have the intellichargers (face palms self) lmao i knew that Either way im cool with waiting. Thanks though for calling and letting me know. Good customer service and when my dad talked with you on the phone he said you were nice and great to talk with about the order.

The banana is Juan Rodriguez's stamp. The guy that is printed on the PCB is Tony D'Amore. My 3sixty.2 has tony's name on it since he designed part of the system. Its more of a thing RF did and since Juan and Tony worked there they still do it to show who designed and came up with the system. I took apart my DD-1 and CC-1 as well and they had the same printings on them for their names. I cant wait to get my two vu-1's for my truck. Im still thinking of a place to mount them at since they are too big to stuff in my dash and the center console has no room at all with the stupid shift knob being in there. I had an idea to use the headliner but that may be kinda bad since when i get super low notes that headliner moves as much if not the same as my sub moves and that would probably snap the boards in half from flexing them. If i had enough room id relocate my HVAC controls and shove them in my center console under the storage compartment. Ill see when i get them. Steve had them ready to ship and called me today when i wasnt home and said one part of my order (probably the xs intellicharger) was not in stock until next week. Either way i dont need them right away but im still happy to have gotten Steve to let me know what was going on, not be surprised that 2 weeks later my items arrive at home lol. So thanks Steve!!

Steve whyyy? lol. I have bought everything you, Tony and Juan have come up with. If it keeps up i'm going to contact payroll and have them take out 15% every paycheck just to keep paying you for all the things i keep buying lmao. That will be one awesome test product to have.Im really curious how that works.

no problem!!! yours will ship as soon as they arrive!! We are actually waiting on electrostatic bags and some smaller shipping boxes..... hang tight its on the way!! Thanks man. You are awesome and need to keep the awesome products coming. Oh btw i got an xs compact intellicharger with my order. My order # is 100002142 for the 2 vu-1's and the one compact intellicharger. I can wait on the charger so you dont have to ship twice for mine, im perfectly fine waiting for you to get the vu-1's in and ship both of them with the charger to my address. Also feel free to sign anything, you, Tony and Juan can sign it wherever. Its your awesome, high quality product so its all fair.

Just ordered two of them. Thank you for the awesome product Steve, Tony and Juan!!! Steve you can take my paycheck all you want to lol. :drink40:

I love dvdvideosoft, i use that for almost everything from youtube downloaders and all that. http://www.dvdvideosoft.com/free-dvd-video-software.htm Its great for everything and ive ripped some dvd's i had laying around with it too. It does leave it so that after you close the program it pops up for 10 seconds with like a little screen to buy a license or donate to them but after 10 seconds you can close it right out, its nothing major for how great the program runs.

My 3sixty.2 i have gives off static kinda like most home theater systems do if the volume is all the way down. Its not noticeable at higher volumes though. In your case are any of your amps touching the body of the vehicle? Sounds like a ground short on the amps itself more than RCA noise. Id make sure the amp and any mounting screws arent touching the body of your vehicle and see what that does. That may correct it. I originally had an amp in my old car where one of the mounting screws was touching the body of the trunk and when that happened the sub would hum but if i removed the screw it would stop. The case of the amps are all grounded.

fucking noobs. I blew a $1000 AA SMD 18" from clipping. I tuned my amps with a -10db tone just like Steve did (insert someone who said if Meade did it, anyone can do it lol) It bottomed out 3 times from the x-over not working 100% on my 3sixty.2 and the CC-1 let me tune that to the right way. I had it running off a dc audio 5.0k at .5 ohms but that doesnt affect it as i was clipping it hard. I burnt all 4 of my tinsel leads on my SMD and it started a tiny fire on the spider pack but it didnt spread. The coil is hard as hell to get black or burnt up but damn having the coil like yours do that takes some serious clipping. I just wrecked the tinsels, my coil is perfectly fine. I admitted to my mistake and got it corrected and am now running stronger than ever and the sub doesnt even get 1/4 close to how hot it was from me clipping it to all fucking hell. Learn how to tune your shit right and learn from your mistakes. Dont jump on the bandwagon and get high end shit that you will just trash. If you want to do that just send that stuff my way. Also last thing, if you think you can come on here and trash the admins and those who offer to help then you are a piece of shit. If you were nice and pulled that pipe out of your ass people including myself would help you do it right and not wreck your shit. Good day sir!!!

I have a working massive audio db8000 amp. it does 4000w at .5 ohms. Ill do 500+ship for the amp if you are interested. Not sure what imp load you are planning to wire to. The amp is in mint condition, no scrapes or dents, the mounting feet have a tiny spot where the paint came off from me screwing them down but thats typical for amps to have. Still functions 100% and i must say looks awesome with the blue glowing massive logo on the top of the heatsink.

That coil looks just like my SMD did after i burnt all 4 of the tinsel leads on it. The coil is perfect on my smd with maybe 2 or 3 tiny areas where it rubbed but my pole piece isnt fully centered in the motor but its not bad where it is now. I ripped the SMD out and bypassed the tinsel leads and my coil still reads as dual 1 (real readings are .7 per coil when i did it). Im thinking to use that coil on something in the future.

Purchased a RF 3sixty.2 (i wanted another one for my truck in the future lol) and a Palm Tungsten T-5 with power and charging cable from Bre2ts. As a previous transaction i had with him it was a breeze. I paid him on paypal and the next business day he got it sent out and i received it a week later which was faster than the last time i ordered 1/0 wire from him but it is coming from Japan after all so im not worrying about that, customs can be a pain in the butt sometimes with holding crap up. Anyways it came all perfect except for a minor little flaw in the usb/charging cable for the palm where it had a broken pin on the charging connector but if i connect the charger directly to the unit im working and charging just fine so im not sweating that at all just thought id mention it. Im not blaming him at all or holding him accountable for it. I didnt test the 3sixty.2 just yet but im very sure its fine from my previous experience i had with him. Thanks for the great products Brett!!! Chris

no problem man. Yea you dont want to get that stupid wire bunched up or you will have like a inch of bare wire sticking out and a big as hell bubble of sheeting sticking out of the wire in the box. lmao. A small amount is needed, dont go balls out and glob it on there lol. Id still do the silicone just to be sure it is air tight but if you make the hole small enough and the wire drags in the opening a bit then it will be good. I suggest drilling the holes in a test piece of wood first just to test fit the holes openings before you do the box other than that its easy for that.

Since it sounds like you want to do the drilling a hole and feeding the wire through maybe you should know this little trick. Take some liquid hand soap and put a drop of it in your fingers and rub that across the wire prior to feeding it through the hole. This will help the wire go through the hole and not bunch up the sheeting on the wire. Also as a tip i noticed, different wire companies will have different sheeting thicknesses so double check the thickness of the wire you are about to drill a hole for with the size of the drill bit you are making the hole with so that its just a little smaller than the wire itself.

My stainless steel bolts didnt put a single bit of resistance into my wires and i tested it from the connection to the amp right to the connection on my tinsel leads so the entire wire run was tested perfect at 0 ohms. As for supplies to do the bolts this is what i used and this is a per terminal basis so you will need to get these parts for every terminal you want to run. 1 x 1.5" long bolt (that is if your box you put the bolt through is 3/4 thick, you need to make sure it will go through the box's wood) 2 x 3/8" ring terminals for the wire gauge you are using for the speaker 4 x 3/8" metal washers 1 x 3/8" nut 1 x 3/8" t-nut Again multiply each one of those listed above by the number of terminals you are using. For example if you have a single sub like i do and its a dual voice coil you will need 4 bolts, 8 ring terminals, 16 washers, 4 nuts (bahahaha sorry), and 4 t-nuts.

For my box i got 1.5" long 3/8" hex head stainless steel bolts with 3/8" stainless steel t-nuts, hex head nuts and washers and it works great. What i did was take a right angle tool and measure about 1-2 inches from each spot i wanted to run the bolt so i have ample room for the terminal to be free and not have any chance to short out or be up against another terminal. Then i drilled the holes out. I put the bolt through the box from the inside to the outside and fastened the t-nut to the outside of my box and i then took a small hammer and knocked the t-nut into the wood so it grabbed. Then i unscrewed the bolt and put one washer on each side of the ring terminals i crimped/soldered to my subs direct leads and put the bolt through the ring and terminals and began screwing the bolt down. Now you want to have the bolt itself bolted in as tight as possible so that if you ever decide to change the ohm loads or need to disconnect the wire, the bolt inside the box wont come loose (its a bitch getting my SMD in and out of the box so make sure its really right but dont strip the threads or make the t-nut spin freely). Now as a personal preference if i want to change my ohm load on the sub i made it so that each bolt on the box is wired independent of each other. For example i did not cross or pair up any wires on the sub or on the inside of my box where the bolts are. So once the bolt is secure and you know which bolt is for what coil and what polarity prepare your wiring so that you can achieve the ohm load you want. Once that is done put a washer on both sides of those ring terminals and take the hex head nut and put that onto the bolt sticking out of your box and tighten it so its snug and you cannot move the wire from side to side. DO NOT CRANK IT DOWN HARD OR YOU WILL BACK THE BOLT OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE TERMINAL!!!! After that just verify your resistance and polarity and connect it to the amp and be done with it. If you do this and get stuck let me know and ill help you, its really simple to do, just take your time and make note of which bolt is for what terminal and you will be fine. edit: if you want to do it easy you can also get a set of wire grommets that you use for your firewall that are water proof and drill the holes in the box big enough to bolt them down and you can use them to make an airtight seal if you dont want to do the silicone trick. Im not sure if there are wire grommets long enough to grab through a single 3/4" mdf or plywood though but they may be out there.