kickass audio

no problem. it deff is what the problem lies to. My old alarm had the same ability to get upgraded to a 2 way system and it came with the remote like you have and the antenna to upgrade it too. If i were you just to be safe get the 2 way receiver/transmitter and the cable for it just incase the cable that is for the 1 way system is not completely run. I doubt it isnt but you need to look at the prongs on that compared to the 2 way receiver/transmitter when you get it.

your fan is fully electronic correct? If its not i had a noise like that but not as bad when my clutch for my fan had quit. Its an electronic clutch but the fan is driven by my water pump. It would make a sound like you are rattling the hell out of the fan shroud but mainly at 1500-2000 rpm's and then go away if i gave it more or less gas. I would just for the ease of it remove the belt and check all the pulleys on your car for any wobbling if you pull them up and down or side to side, if it moves a lot then the bearing on that pulley is shot and needs replacing. I dont think its the belt doing that or anything on that part of the system but you should really get that corrected before your belt shreds on you. When this noise does your fan on the radiator spin any faster than it normally did? Maybe the fan is a little loose and it is spinning faster temporarily to cool off the system briefly and it is rocking the fans housing around? Idk without being there to hear it in person to trace its sound. If you rev up the speed on the engine does that sound get faster and louder? Does this happen when the engine is warmed up or even when its completely cold after sitting overnight? If it was a lifter you would not hear it going that fast for the knock and if they were coming into contact with your piston it would make a slight pinging noise from what i heard on my friends car. Please get back to me on that.

sounds like its a pulley or belt issue for the squealing Try this, get a spray bottle and fill it with water (ONLY WATER) and spray it on the flat side of your belt. If the squealing goes away temporarily and comes back you have a tension issue, if you spray the ribbed side of your belt and the squeaking temporarily goes away but comes back then you have an alignment issue with one of your pulleys. I had this with my 04 envoy and i put a new belt, tensioner and idler pulley on. The idler pulley was squealing but i figured what the hell im doing the work so might as well finish it off with a fresh tensioner too and since my belt was slipping before i put a brand new belt on too. Also what i strongly recommend to do is take brake parts cleaner and thoroughly clean every pulley on your belt drive system. Spray a old clean rag with the brake part cleaner and wipe every pulley until the cloth remains clean after you wipe it off. do NOT spray this on the pulley itself as the brake cleaner can seep into the bearings of the pulley and dry them up. For that horrible grinding issue i believe that is your fan. What happens if you kill the ignition right as that starts to happen?

did you replace the antenna on it? You cannot just simply put the 2-way remote on the system and make it work. The antenna that comes with that is default as 1-way (see page 23), you need the 2-way antenna to make it send a reply signal to your 2-way remote. Without that antenna it will just take whatever it gets for locking and unlocking but it will not page you at all. Its basically like a 2-way radio. You can make them a 1-way radio by disabling the mic button for certain frequencies. This is whats going on here, the stock antenna/receiver is just a 1 way unit.

your voltage wouldnt go up when you raise the engine speed at all. I would check the amps connections for any loose speaker wires. I had it before where i punched the gas but i have NOTHING holding my rear batteries down and at the time i didnt have the 1/2 thick rubber paddles under my front and rear battery to prevent them from sliding and the battery slid all the way to the tailgate and yanked the power wire from my 3sixty.2. I went to push the batteries back in place and put the power to the 3sixty.2 but dumbass me never turned off the radio and as soon as the processor got power all i heard was a loud pop and all the amps were in protect. I thought for sure i fried the speakers or amps but they were fine after i powered off and back on my radio. If your amp is not 100% secure just check for loose power or speaker wires and any rca's being loose. Thats where i would start.

Its one of two things. Your starter solenoid isnt fully engaging so that your starter is half grinding on your flywheel or the flywheel itself has a bald spot on it from the teeth of the gear being ground down. Try to tap on the starter with something like a 2x4 or a pole if you have one but dont slam on it. if that doesnt work try to unbolt the starter from the side of the engine iirc its in the drivers side but idr and im not at home to check my dads tahoe to see. Heres a video of how to change it: Super easy to change them just disconnect the power completely because its super easy to short out the power wires for your starter and they are NOT fused so if you short it out it will keep arcing until you separate the wire that is shorting.

Here are some pics i took with my phone of where my power and ground wires are in the front of my envoy. Your truck may not have the ground block i was talking about above the alt but see in the pics. This is the ground location on my frame underneath the battery tray on the drivers side frame rail. I drilled the hole, used a wire brush on a dremel to scratch the frames paint off and then used my dads tap and die kit to put threads into the frame and bolted the bolt to the frame. That bolt is the tightest one i put on my frame. My rear ground was a pain in the ass. picture 1 of the location where my +12v 1/0 goes into the firewall through the cabin. I couldnt get a pic of it in the cabin because i didnt want to tear down the lower part of my dash where my alarm is, too many wires down there. lol. power and ground wires between my engine/alt and battery. the wire going from the black terminal on my battery that is in the ribbed cover is the ground wire for my engine. It was easier to put it up there.: again.

I havent ran any wires underneath my truck yet but this summer i will because im not drilling a hole in the same grommet again and try to fit a ground wire next to the power wire on the same run. I planned to use the cargo bolt that i modified in the rear as a junction so that i will have one end of my ground connected to that and then a continuous run to the ground of my battery under the hood. I was thinking to run that right along the outside of my frame rail up near the top so its out of the way. Havent looked into too much detail for if its possible but i will find out this summer when i jack it up and look at it. lol. The firewall is way easier but that grommet i used is a pain in the ass to cut through since it has a solid rubber center on it and i went very slowly so that i didnt slip and cut the wire harness that comes in from there. I then made the hole just big enough to fish my 1/0 through it but it was super tight so i would have no water leaking through it. Then to finish it off i took air conditioner putty and put that right around the outside of the wire for extra waterproofing. Im overkill with a lot of things but id rather be safe than sorry. haha.

I have the same style engine and connections but i have an Envoy instead. I grounded from my battery to the bolt that holds the huge metal bracket that is above the alternator (you are supposed to use it as the grounding location when jump starting and it says "gnd" on the part) and i drilled a hole on the frame near the very front and bolted a ground to the frame after i cleaned it up. I have 0 resistance in those connections and its easier than using the bolt on your alt as the alt is a pain in the ass to get to unless you pull your wheel and fold back the wheel well and get to them plus its hard to fit a ring terminal on that connection to begin with. edit: for the wire run i used a pair of carpenter scissors and cut the huge rubber grommet that goes from the inside of my engine to the bottom of my firewall. If you look under the master cylinder there is a huge black rubber grommet that is about 2-3 inches big, i cut a hole through the grommet and fed my 1/0 through that. Then i pulled my carpet back and removed the foam foot rest block and cut a slot into it so that my 1/0 would fit into that neatly and not make a bump on the carpet then continued to run the wire to the back right next to the clips that hold down the bottom trim pieces.

Its hard to understand what you are getting at so im sorry. But do you mean you want to take it so that your super tweeters are run off just the 2 channel amp and then ONLY your mids are run off the 4 channel amp? Also you are thinking 100% correct with what you are doing now. You just have to be sure to make the left and right side connections. For example if the left input on your 2 channel is channel 1, make sure that you connect the y-adapters output to channel 1+2 on your 4 channel. Channel 1+2 on your 4 channel will be used for the mids on the left side of your vehicle and channel 1 on your 2 channel amp will be used for the super tweeters on the left of your vehicle. Your thinking is perfectly correct now, just make sure you have the left and right setup correctly. Dont want to make the rca connections right and have your speakers hooked up in reverse lol. I highly suggest getting a sharpie to make small marks on your rca and speaker connections so you know what wire goes where. I used a label maker with mine and it helped immensely. One final thing: Im not sure what you meant by "use the fronts of my alpine" do you mean to hook up your speakers to the speaker output of your headunit? If so DO NOT do this. The speaker outputs will clip way before the rca's will clip and your sound will not be even.

It only matters that you match the left and the right for your rca and speakers. For example you connect the left (white) rca from your headunit to the channel 1 input on your 125.2 and then connect the right (red) rca from your headunit to the channel 2 input on your 125.2. Next you will take the splitter i linked in the earlier post and connect that to the channel 1 output of your 125.2 rca connection and the other to the channel 2 rca connection on your 125.2 so that you have a total of 4 rca outputs on the 125.2 (2 per channel output). Then since you connected the left channel to channel 1 of your 125.2, the channel 1 output of the amp's rca connection will also be the left channel. So take the rca's that go off there and use that for the speakers that will be on the left side of your car. Then for the two channel 2 outputs on your 125.2 this will be the right channel for your speakers in the vehicle. To answer your question about how to hook the outputs from your 125.2's rca to the 4 channel im not sure how you are planning to run it. Are you planning to make it so that you have 2 channels dedicated to just your mids and the other 2 channels for your highs? If so heres how you HAVE to wire it. Take one of the rca outputs from your 125.2 (lets say the left one) and connect this to channel 1, then take the right output from your 125.2 to the channel 2 of your 4 channel amp. You then would use the channel 1 output of the 4 channel amp as the left speaker output. and channel 2 as the right speaker output for your mids. Then you would take the remaining output and hook it up to channel 3 and 4 respectively as before and keep the same polarity and balance. If you are still lost please let me know, i can make a quick sketch up for you and scan it if you need me to.

here is their site: http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/id24.html The MLA will set off the check engine light on most applications so just a heads up but it will run just fine. Meade had a MLA before he got the xs power VCM for his tahoe and his MLA made the check engine light come on and stay on, the xs power VCM had corrected his check engine light.

Just a suggestion for the OP but have you traced the wires to your fusebox and your starter to make sure nothing else was connected to them (idr what the stupid things are called but its like a clamp that goes around the wire that will detect your current draw and change your vehicles charging voltage to conserve fuel). You can always just take the stock cable and get some 4ga and run that to the stock locations and mount it right on the top terminal of your d6500. Something else you could do but i really wouldnt recommend it would be to get something like a fuse holder and a bit of 4ga wire then chop off the stock GM connector and put the gm wire into the other side of the fuse holder. That would work but i feel uneasy about that for your starter. edit: dont get the i-bar for it either. you CANNOT modify the i-bar as the part where the i-bar comes into contact with your battery terminal has a indentation and it will not line up on your battery nor will it have a solid connection. As BeAlLsTaR13 mentioned the i-bar has a little slot on the top of the battery that holds the i-bars into their slots so they cannot move around or get shorted out. You can do like i previously mentioned or contact tookmaker to have a custom side bracket but idk if he has anything he can do for it because the GM connections are not 100% flush and require lead to be on the face of the connector so that when you screw in the terminal it will "sink" into the terminal to prevent it from slipping, without that soft area of the metal your connection will not be strong and may heat up.

connect the 2 rca's coming from your headunit to the 125.2. get two male to 2 female y-adapters and connect this to your 125.2 amps rca labeled "output". then get short rca's and connect to the splitter then to your 100.4. this is what the adapter looks like: http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1920&bih=955&authuser=0&tbm=isch&tbnid=646ZX_w4BnSJnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/monster-cable-male-rca-to-2-female-rca-cable-adapter&docid=CblXpAJD9OepuM&imgurl=http://static.musiciansfriend.com/derivates/18/001/208/120/DV016_Jpg_Large_330083.jpg&w=700&h=664&ei=_zFdT-HpCuT30gHmo7itDw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1352&vpy=454&dur=355&hovh=219&hovw=231&tx=130&ty=90&sig=103182322391766689277&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=150&start=0&ndsp=60&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0

Thank you man i didnt know that. Thanks for the correction. Id never mount them upside down anyways but thats great to know.

You can mount them in ANY direction even upside down AS LONG as the terminals cannot be shorted out. Most people dont like to mount them upside down because first of all its going to be hard to get to the terminals to unbolt the wire if you need to take a lead out or put one on and second if the holder for the battery fails and the battery collapses your battery will most likely short out and cause a fire.

this ^^^^^ even if it has numbers every 10hz (which i RARELY, IF EVER, Have seen), you still are not going to nail it. The chances of that silk-screen logo matching up with your screwdriver-eyeball is slim to none. The only way would be if your amp adjustment actually "clicked" at each frequency, telling you you are on the right number. (if that makes sense). I have never seen an amp that did that. Some high end crossovers but never an amp. (not saying there isn't one though) its usually 50-400hz (or so) with a whole lot of nothing in between...i, like most of you, have been guessing all my life - so im not better then anyone else lol - but not anymore! Not trying to bash you Steve, i have the DD-1 and CC-1 and i LOVEEEE them. But I have and still have a Precision Power PC-2350 amp and it does 1400w rms at 4 ohms since its a 2 channel amp. The x-over for the lowpass has detents or clicks on it like you described. The bass boost (pfft who uses those) also had them so you know how many db's you are boosting at. So like you said its rare but they are out there. But for anyone who thinks they will only use it once it wont matter. The quality of the product and the quality of your system because of using them both will be amazing. I used to have it like Steve said with setting the amps at full pass and using the x-over settings on my 3sixty.2 but the .2 i have screws up and isnt that accurate as i found out. What i set to 60Hz highpass is really 65Hz and the CC-1 had found this. Now i have a precise system and it is sounding better than ever. I also used the cc-1 on my amps x-over settings so if my 3sixty.2 decides to fail on the x-over settings like it did to my SMD before and make it bottom out so i set the x-overs on both to make them as accurate as possible and i am so happy with the results of it. So just thinking your sound processor will do the work isnt always the case. Spend the money and get them both and you will be happy. Ive tuned my system (mids and highs only for now, my sub amp isnt in as my SMD is getting reconed by myself) and my co-workers car and it sounds great.

Basically just look at the bottom of your door, there will be like a ledge where the rubber door seal will sit against when you close the door. Right where that ledge is there is a small oval hole on them and sometimes they use rubber flaps on them to help seal them up from getting dirt and stuff in your door but they will be down there. Just take a brand new knife and cut it through the damp pro and you will be fine. Or like previously mentioned you can always drill a few new holes but i wouldnt go that route.

The rain enters through the seal around your windows. They are rain tracks to help allow the rain to fall into the door and then drain out the bottom. The damp pro isnt that thick, using a very sharp or brand new utility knife will fix it up or get a hole punch and stab a hole through it to find the holes in the damp pro itself then cut it out a bit. They are usually the size of a sharpened end of a pencil or the eraser of a pencil. Sometimes they have rubber flaps on them like my Envoy does, some are just metal openings. They are on the outside lip of the door (if you open the door and push your fingers toward the outside they reside on the part of the door that goes down below the bump in your door to which the panel attaches to). Kinda like the ledge of the bottom of the door.

Ive done it on my oldsmobile, my dads envoy and my moms impala and never had any problems. I have heard of people running into problems with it but mainly its the fuel consumption is increased because of it. Another thing you can do is change the size of your idler pulley if you have one on your engine. Those are super easy to change, just remove the belt, unscrew the bolt and bolt the new one on. Easy as that.

IDK your engine but is it an electronic throttle body or is it a manual (cable driven) throttlebody? If its cable driven almost all engines ive tinkered with have a set screw on them near the butterfly opening to adjust how far open the throttle will remain when you are not depressing the gas pedal. Opening these up enough with your car in drive and getting the right idle speed to keep the alt charging will be your easiest bet. To do this id recommend getting a buddy to sit in your car holding the brake pedal down while dropping the car into gear while you are under the hood adjusting the set screw. Now if you cant find help heres what you can do. Get a brick and place it in front and in behind of your wheel to act as a wheel chuck and then test your emergency (parking) brake to see that it functions. Once you confirm it works roll down your driver side window as if there is an emergency or accident you can grab the keys and kill the ignition fast, find the set screw on your throttlebody if you have one, turn on your car and let it warm up for about 2 minutes and put it in drive with your parking brake engaged and wheel chucks in place. Now get a volt meter to help you see where your alt starts to charge at 14.4v and open up the screw on the throttle body until it gets the voltage up to that level. Once you have this change gears and put it in reverse (this usually isnt needed but while you are at it, might as well make sure you dont drop engine speed in any other gears but park and neutral) and test it. Once you have it like that ride it around the block and stop dead at a stop sign or red-light and see if your alt stops charging and adjust as needed.

10ga direct leads should get in the speaker outputs of that amp no problem. Looking at the pics of it online it looks like its 8ga outputs like my amps have. The power connections will be close for how they are right next to eachother. Usually amps that have the remote wire between the positive and negative have ample room for using a reducer. In your case id say just go out and buy a little distro block that goes from 1/0 to 4ga (they are out there so dont say they are not, i believe rockford has one that is very small but its not fused) and get like 6 feet of 4ga wire (3 for positive and 3 for negative) and then use the 4ga to go from the distro block to the amps + terminal and then from the amps ground to the chassis ground. The only thing im not sure is your direct leads. If you have a big box the direct leads may not exit the box allowing you to connect it to the amp. Im not sure on the length of them but if they are long enough for you to just connect without making a connection on the box itself then just take the direct leads and unscrew the terminal on the amp and shove that wire in there and crank it down. It will fit for sure. 10ga is pretty common for subs now so only cheap crappy amps will not have a opening big enough for that.

Reducers wont make the amp hot and they have never shorted out with a few amps i used mine on. They get close but some shrink wrap at the nearest harbor freight or radioshack will fix that for you along with electrical tape if you are still concerned. Also why does the amp need to have 10 gauge speaker outputs? Is that the wire you are using or something?

I dont always think the gauge inputs or number of inputs makes the amp. I had a stetsom 2k6d amp that had 2ga wire inputs for the power and ground (they were really 4ga but the holes were big enough and i even stuffed all of my tsunami 1/0 in there) and that amp was clamped at over 2800w rms at 5 ohms. The amp mind you was a 2 ohm model rated to do 2600w rms at 2 ohms on a 14.4v system. I wish i never sold that amp knowing that about it now. Either way they do have distro blocks though they are usually fused that will accept 1/0, two 4/8ga inputs and then give up to 4 4/8ga outputs with a fuse between each output. I myself have one and would sell it to you if i knew for sure id never use it but they are out there. I say just stick it out and either get a distro block or a pair of reducers for it and be done with it, worry about upgrading the amp and everything else later. edit: just was going through the f/s thread on here and found this http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/135732-for-sale-20-10-wire-reducers-4-ch-amp-d3400-xs-tweeters-midranges-speaker-wires-terminals/ The guy has 3 pairs of 1/0 to 4ga reducers and thats the exact same one i used on an old precision power amp i have.

Exactly what Cody said. My 5.0k clip light rarely came on but since i got the dd-1 and cc-1 i know for sure i was clipping the amps and sub when i was playing music. The light didnt illuminate until the amp had enough voltage to predict the clipping. So the light is more of a reference, it is by no means accurate. It will not illuminate if you are clipping the signal before the amp, it will only illuminate if the amp itself is clipping.