kirill007

It doesn't works that way. I could name you a few amps, probably not in your price range. What is your budget?

Maybe if he would design it... It would burn up at 3/4 of the power. But normaly no, it shouldn't burn up at all. But if it's a bad ported design it can burn up too.

no subs need to be broken in. Just start bumpin, if it breaks its because its user error. A sub handles its rms from day 1.

Do 'they' know that a port in the middle is less loud? Are you making a box for a customer, or a friend?

There are a few. But why would you want to do that? It's not very cost effective. Don't run 16k's on 16v. because a 16 volt system charges at about 19 volt. You need 16V batts and 16v alternators to run a 16 volt system, but your car cannot handle that, so you need a 12v batt and a 12v alternator just to run the car. EDIt: and no need to kick the topic 3 times a day.(there is a rule on it.)

"silent coat" (although i don't know how good it is, the 4mm version looks decent.) And then there are a few asphalt based deadeners, which i won't use since they aren't good at all. How thick is the aluminium on the SS damplifier?

Hello, Do you guys ship to europe? I'm sorry for asking about other brands in this subforum, but there isn't a real deadener subforum. Where can you get good sound deadener in europe? (Belgium) Because i have dynamat but it's very expensive and i've seen in quite a few tests that SS is better and a few other brands too.

Do you have a amp for the speakers?

Fuse by the size rating since it's just a run to the back. Fuse with 350 amps, or 300amps.

Just don't use peel and seal. Just buy second skin, you don't have to cover the whole (door) panel to deaden. By just covering half or 25% of the covered area you can deaden effectivly with a good sound deadener. Remember it's a sound deadener, it doesn't stops sound.(maybe a bit, but not like a mass loaded barrier would do.)

No, it means you can wire it to 4 or 1 ohm. With 1 dual 2 ohm sub.

I find this remark insulting because I just wanted dc=realbass to elaborate why he would do that. I asked that question because I was surprised that dc=realbass would wire it down to 1 ohm. That's all. So that's why I had to ask. That was not to insult you. There is a reason why a RMS rating exists Apparently dc=realbass doesn't knows what he's doing, since he likes to have his woofer do things that are useless.(Like making it have a excursion of 2 inches, which is past xmax.. And letting it waste wattage, since there is a point where the sub doesn't actually gains anything except added heat.)

NO that's not what deadeners do. Peel n seal actually deadened for me while changing the resonance freq. It doesnt stink and it hasnt came off my doors and still stickn just as good as when it was put on Peel and seal didn't deaden, it just added weight,You could use ducktape and get the same or better results.(and it won't smell nor fall down) A true deadener not only adds weight to the panel but also rigidity, and if the panel starts vibriting it converts the vibrations into heat so there is less vibration.

3cubes can be good but it depends on how much power you want to use. But 3 cubes NET per woofer seems quite normal.

This. It all depends on certain variables. There is no thing like it will be like this in car X or like that in car Y.

Why would you think that?(1.5 is quite low..) He hasn't gave any specifications except airspace. How much port area are you gonna use? How much power are you going to use? What would you reccommend for port area? I am probably going to be using a DC 2K to power them. 1.8 cubes(each and it has to be net volume) with about 32sq inches of port each. So 3.6cubes(NET not gross volume) and 60-64sq inches total. But could you state your goals so i can make it more accurate for your goals. What kind of music do you listen to? How do you want it to sound like?

Why would you think that?(1.5 is quite low..) He hasn't gave any specifications except airspace. How much port area are you gonna use? How much power are you going to use?

How the hell can you guys buy a exhaust for under 100 dollar? A good air intake that actually adds hp instead of losing it costs about 100dollars. (k&n) A ecu chip upgrade can work well, depends on car and the tuner. Ive seen sometimes 30-35hp more and 25-30% more torque and the way it delivers power it smoother and you have the same or lower MPG. But dont try finding a ecu upgrade under 100 bucks, try atleast 300.

You are contradicting yourself. 2db's isn't or very barely noticeable to a trained ear. EDIT:Probably placebo like you just said , 3db is a quite small change on the hearing, although it depends at what freqeuncy and how loud it already is after adding a extra 3dB.

Planet audio is better then the audiopipe. And because they make their power at 2 ohms, they should be more efficient. But just because your subs don't pop out of the wall doesn't mean they don't have enough power. It just means that you haven't accounted for power, when designing your wall.

I have nothing to say so i'll just post a reply to raise my post count... The amp you have won't put out 2500w at 2 ohm... Audioque will put out more power at 1 ohm.

Jbl amp is amazing, 4 ohm power is good for the subs. But only downside is that it costs quite a bit of money for the wattage you get. And people these days dont like to pay that much w/$

You fix them by buying new ones. There is no way to fix it. Next time do not forget to use the crossover. Only time where you don't have to use crossovers if you use a amp that has built in crossovers that you have to set manually.

Why? Explain instead of just saying that.. Audiopipe amps are not decent. annnnd you base that on what statement? please provide proof instead of just saying that.. they are budget.. they are NOT sundown, JL, arc or audison quality... you get what you pay for.. but for the mid ranged budget stuff, they are good stuff, can beat the shit out of it and it will work all day every day.... but please provide proof instead of just saying that though man Thaha, you got me there. Excuse me, audiopipe amps arent as efficient as the new hifonics. Someone i met had problems with audiopipe, getting real hot, big voltage drop (till 12.3v) although it still plays with that low voltage but it didnt make rated power within 1-5 % of THD. Hifonics amp that i have used did perform quite good on the shitty electrical i had (90amp alt ,no extra batt), did rated clamped power at 13.x volts. Didnt overheat, the guts looked decent for a 1600w amp. Audiopipe guts dont look that well built.(only have seen it on pictures)

How is your voltage like?