skittlesRgood

Lord knows I'll probably benifit personally from any work done by the cancer association in the future. I donated what I could. I'm sorry I didnt make it to the lunch. Wish I could have. I hope more people on this forum come together to help support this cause. Ive seen it done here before and it was pretty amazing to see the community step up and help.

pretty small starting battery. is that the biggest size that fits?

hmm your attitude is hinting that it fits the pic.it takes some time to design a good box. anyone willing to do it for free, will likely not be someone you want a design from (generally speaking). so you want to pay someone. dont be mad when you get an answer you dont like. its best to be respectful when you want people to help you. introducing yourself by having a picture of a middle finger isnt respectful. i dont know if you think its a cool thing to do, but its not.

be worried. the info in this thread sucks so far. your math is off because you didnt factor efficiency. you need more like 470amps. dont ever ever ever ever ever ever ever, ever look at peak or max power ratings. they are useless. rms only!!! so a 250amp alt with a higher idle output than a 300amper, with two xs power 2400s plus a starting battery and you will be covered.

definitely not endless but there might be a 7k or maybe even a 12k at my disposal lol. but i think a key element here will be a higher frequency and a mid or tweet wont take much power.

is it 80db is .001w? i read it as, we use .001w to make 80db when we yell. it says all energy is constant so 50w to a speaker should lead to 50w worth of energy leaving the cone. again, i could be very wrong but thats the way i read it. ill look at it again later.

are you asking for a box design? people usually charge for that. and your avatar makes me want to flip you off and not help you. you are flipping off me and the whole forum after all. <^>()<^>

why not just get more m1's?

throws me off too lol

ya, ive seen the plastic welders. just never thought of being able to heat water with my own speakers. its something i can actually try myself.

if it works, sure. i wont take the time to film something that might be a failure lol. would just be fun to try.

could be the speakers you have. some tweeters are just harsh and can even feel like a needle poking you in the ear. but for bass, its something you get used to. thats why you take steps to getting louder. start small. what speakers do you have for mids/highs?

http://www.physicscentral.com/explore/poster-coffee.cfm not with yelling, obviously. im going to try 50w and some tones. see if i can heat up some water. people in my house are about to hate me. this one is cool too but I dont think I could do it. http://www.physicscentral.com/explore/action/sound-1.cfm

basically, its a shit meter. i wouldnt trust anything it says. the only thing i would use one for is to compare two noises. but the actual number, i wouldnt trust. distance and angle affect that meter too much. but it probably is somewhere around 103db. a person yelling is about 80db.

and i did comment in that thread that my JL 4 channel does correct for clipping. im not sure how good that feature is but its somewhat close to what you are talking about.

you mean it would be loud 100% of the time? i see no problem here. lol touche. oh wait! there is a cop behind you at that red light! fuck fuck fuck fuck. lol

if it was totally self adjusting then when you turn the volume down at the HU the gain would turn up to compensate for the lower input voltage. thats the paradox i see.

for setting gains it did. I will never ever use an O-scope to set another gain in my life..... of course you wont. its your product, you own one, its simple, and it works. but for someone who doesnt own one or cant afford it, the "old" way still works just like it did before. thousands of people have tuned with a DMM and didnt blow up a sub. thats all im saying. the dmm method is not accurate at all. If you try to set the gain on an amp that is overated and you try to tune it to the watts it claims it will clip. And if you try it on a underated amp you won't get full output. DMM got my 12"s to 151db+. got two of my team mates over 160db. and a team mate's son to 160db no wall. your point is true, its not idiot proof or as simple and im not saying it better at all. it takes some experience to get right and you can mess it up. but it does work and, more over, was highly recommended by many users on this site the day before the dd1 came out. everyone was passing out the chart on how to tune with a DMM to every new member. it just baffles me that everyone seems to have forgotten that they used to personally recommend the DMM method. and to charify so people dont over react. im not saying anything bad about the DD-1. it is a nice, simple, effective, tool and for many users, its the best option. its not quite that good but my JL 4channel does do that. it has an anti clipping feature that kicks in automatically.

for setting gains it did. I will never ever use an O-scope to set another gain in my life..... of course you wont. its your product, you own one, its simple, and it works. but for someone who doesnt own one or cant afford it, the "old" way still works just like it did before. thousands of people have tuned with a DMM and didnt blow up a sub. thats all im saying.

oh, so i was right. woo!

some good things to remember there drew. the DD-1 also didnt make DMMs and scopes useless like some people seem to believe.

hmm... i guess i thought that whammy was bigger. is it only like 2.5"x2.5"?

the meter wasnt made for a car audio system. its just a rebadged meter. it was never intended to measure the frequencies that a subwoofer produces. so you bring it closer to your mids and you get a higher reading. with your subs, it just cant "hear" them. the term lab is made for low frequencies and cant pick up higher ones. i think it cuts off around 100hz for the TL.

its a shit meter bro.

well the ports are going to be 2 4in aero's as that's what my box already has i just need to figure out what cubes to go with as i made my box to where i can slide the baffle in and out of the box so i can change the amount of cubes the sub's are seeing just to check, how do you seal and attach the baffle once moved?