skittlesRgood

add them. so its 1600w at whatever impedance.

ya... hu is grounded to the back batteries, RCAs are grounded to the HU case. neither did very much good. everyone always says "check the grounds" for every problem. honestly it starts to annoy me because it usually isnt the problem. one thing people never seem to say with alt whine is that it could be the amp or hu. i have just changed these out and noticed a big difference is alt whine. it isnt wiring, its just the product. anyways, look at the engine noise sticky on CA.com and take some notes from it. make this a little better and itll be worth a sticky. as it is, i dont think you go into enough detailed tips.

so the resistance of the probes is .4ohm and you see .8 at the terminals. so your wired to .5ohm. each amp sees .25ohm. thats the answer. you wired all the + terminals together and all the - terminals together. wire them to 2ohm and you will be good. noob help is funny

thats what the meter says? what does it say if you just touch the 2 probes together? .3?

hmm. ill bet its wired to .5ohm.

i really should have asked this a few weeks ago since i was there for a week lol. i sent you a pm.

anyone in that area?

when i switched from a mechman alt to a DC power alt i got less noise lol. you never know what its going to be, even spark plugs can make a difference. ive also noticed any time RCAs are coiled up they make noise. and OP, the 1st set of RCAs i used were cheapy $5 RCAs and i had very little noise. "upgraded" to knukoncepts and i got more noise. battled it a little then recently "upgraded" to stinger and got more noise lol. each upgrade had better/more shielding than the last. explain that lol.

i have the same setup (or about to) and my electrical is one kinetik 1800, two 2400s. and a deka G31. 2 runs of + and - 1/0 runs front to back. DC power 270xp alt. i cant tell you how its doing off that yet but i should have it running in a couple weeks. i believe itll be enough though.

ok... so anything in the rear deck will be subject to the pressure from the subs in the trunk. this will blow those deck speakers over and over. you will notice the biggest difference by looking at the front stage. if you would like to talk about that i can help you out. as for speaker size, of corse they make a difference. you wont get an 8" driver to play above 500hz very well but a 4" driver is great to play vocals. all depends on your goals.

im not the best at this but i think its a BTL. its just the old motor.

huh. must have grabbed the last few.

why? i just got 2 yesterday.

wrong. you want to set it with the lowest tone you want your mids/highs to see. the reason, if you tune to 1k then drop down to 300hz you will start to see clipping. i have vids on here showing this on a scope.

it is better to run the negative from front to back batteries but grounding it in the back will work fine. what size is the + wire you already have? the isolator only saves the front battery from draining while the car is off. its like an idiot switch. if your stupid and you run your battery dead all the time... you need the idiot switch lol.

hahaha, brilliant.

you know whenever the subs are playing its flexing that trunk lid... what do you think that seal is doing? opening up more leaks. so those little leaks are big gaps opening and closing as the subs play. now with air coming in from you driving it may be keeping the water on the trunk lid until it gets over the well and drips down. thats just a guess.

eh, dykes are just a little hand tool. i dont care what people call them so long as it makes sense. and im only 23, quit calling me old lol.

use two 6" ports when you do that. port area is important. and just a little info for you. they dont make "aeroports" anymore. PSP makes good flared ports but "aeroport" was a brand name that went out of business.

you just described what a parametric EQ does. a peak in the middle with a slope on either side. Q adjusts how wide that slope is. what i said wasnt wrong at all i just didnt go into great detail.

"Q" is the slope. its basically a parametric EQ

x2. what happened?

post the box specs. all dimensions so we can tell you how much airspace you have and what you are tuned to. then we can tell you how to make it better. be sure to include the size of the port opening and length.

what in the blue fuck???!!!