skittlesRgood

thats the only place.

run it through the boot where all the other wires are.

yep, you cant do much to an amp to make it produce more power. voltage would be the biggest improvement.

yes, a good ported box should make it louder.

call them tomorrow? they wont post prices here.

i just told rusty i needed recones and he sent me the bill. he knows what i have and what i need.

its pretty much all bullshit except the 1st half of number 2.

not when the subs are on

I just wanted to say "thanks" to Rusty and Ana. I ordered recones monday night, they shipped tues, arrived wednesday, up and running thursday morning for work. it couldn't possibly get any better than that. BTW, these things are stiff as fuck! they barely moved when I put the 15 lbs. weight on them. im going to have to "listen" to a 20hz tone the whole way home to break these in lol. pics are on the last page of my build log.

you're crazy, arnt you from california? your supposed to be bitching about the cold.

So how should I put the fan on it? I have a bunch of 120mm fans from my computer (over 10 unused) Also the amp is only 40x4. I don't think it would get that hot. The amp has 2 lpf and 2 hpf so I can only hook up 2 highs, I don't care for mids since I have 2-ways. So really this amp would only be pushing 2x40w rms on probably half gain and it's rated for 4x40w rms. it shouldn't get that hot. if it gets too hot, wouldn't it just shut down? It's also really cold out right now...around 20f is it 20* in the car while you drive around or do you turn the heater on and get the car to a normal temp? and winter wont last forever. hope you get my point. by "half gain" i hope you are not treating it like a volume knob. all the way up isnt like "max power" and half way isnt half power. how would i do it? well you need air coming in and out of the area. so if you have a 5" fan then you need another 5" opening at the opposite end of the amp from the fan. you also want the surface area of the fan in front and behind the fan for it can breathe. otherwise you might as well use a smaller fan. a 5" fan would be serious overkill for cooling and probably hard to mount. a 3" fan or two 2" fans in a push/pull combination would work well. and if the two 2" fans are too loud you could wire them in series to make them run slower.

yes you can do it. ive seen a car where he had all the amps and processor in the dash. works just fine. a tight space isnt much of a problem for heat, just work out a cooling system. a simple fan to keep air moving over the heat sink. use a large fan, around 4", that is very quiet, CFM rating wont matter. and dont just stick the fan to the amp

i think flux just helps it flow, not stick. when you solder anything you usually tin the wire. the tinsel gets hot and soaks up solder and flux. i just did a recone yesterday and had flux soak about 3/8" up the tinsel. it just happens. now it does look like way too much on the tinsels and thats why i said it might be burnt. but the brown/amber stuff on the terminals is definitely flux. I'm sure if it was anything to worry about, sundownz would have told you.

take your dash apart, put electrical tape over the light, assemble dash. as for the jumper... is it still in there?

ya... i never get good updates from them either. but it does tell me the date of arrival so thats good for me. and i never pay for it, its all stuff thats been shipped to me so someone else took care of that.

well the pic is all blurry but it could be slightly burnt tinsels or just flux from the solder.

why? based on testing, they drop the packages less and get there faster. the line at the post office is the only real down side.

i would definitely go with a new HU or a simple EQ. but if you DO use Y splitters then be sure to maintain left and right channels.

i thought today was the 2nd. sorry, went off memory, thought you said tomorrow. my memory is shit BTW.

just to help out, you can update this thing to the z120 software for free now. so whoever picks it up would be getting a hell of a good deal once they update it. sorry if this counts as post dumping.

i just had a package arrive yesterday and the status bar was updating the whole way. i would be concerned about it too but i guess since it should be here tomorrow, just wait and see.

no idea what your point is here... i wouldnt admit it if i had tuned to have no midbass. when subs are playing you dont hear the midbass. so they are pointless to me. WHAT??? lol then your midbass sucks. midbass is awesome man. work on a system with some killer midbass, you will love it.

no idea what your point is here... i wouldnt admit it if i had tuned to have no midbass.

lol what? hmm ok so he should turn it up until they start to bottom out then walk back to the amp grab a screw driver and then adjust the gain. the speakers bottoming out the whole time... doesnt sound like a good idea. you would want to turn the gain down 1st, then turn the volume up, then go back to the amp and slowly turn the gain up. termlabs dont measure high frequencies, i think it only measures up to 100hz. you would want an RTA but without a decent EQ that would be pretty pointless.

thats what i was talking about. do you mean your going to get more coaxials or just mids? im guessing you are ok with your highs and you are just worried about the midbass, correct? so why pay for speakers with more tweeters that still lack midbass? just get one set of midbass 6.5"s ($130 image dynamics i linked) and a cheap 2way crossover ($70 or less). now you set the new midbass speakers to play 80-300hz and the "paperweights" to play 300hz and up. put the coaxials in the kicks and the midbass in the doors (it'll sound better) i know you have your mind set on one way of thinking here but trust me, this will work. i wouldn't steer you wrong.