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Sanitarium

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Everything posted by Sanitarium

  1. Bassblockers in cases where there is no crossover to wire to. Google it.
  2. OP. AQ subs are stifffff as crap brand new and take time to really get to where they'll play lower notes. AQ subs do fine down low, but if you're looking for a "sweet spot" your vehicle will play a big roll in it. your best bet if you really want that "sweet spot" is to build your box to where you can change tuning at will. Otherwise, tune to 30-34 (i suggest 34) if you really want.
  3. you smell your subs when you play really low because of increased friction in the gap, be sure to put some of that patented "spl grease" onto the coil. Just spray it in through the air vent on the back. If you can't find any "spl grease" you should just use spray pam, works almost as good.
  4. 2 subs with 90 deebee efficiency = 180 deebee! then you add in 12 db bass boost knob and you get 192 deebee!
  5. u already have a team team chat azzholez I LOL'd. But I thought Sani was an asshole until chat, then I saw he wasn't THAT bad... shhh, you let loose my secret!
  6. u already have a team team chat azzholez but. oh em gee. this one is EPIC. so it has to be better!
  7. Oh Muh Gorsh, a team !!! i can haz team? i wantz team!!!
  8. LOL @ tnt9.. it's the truth though. JP ran em for a long time... and blew em the fuck up. no idea about power output, but the aq3500 @ 0.5, given a good electrical would get you 5000 to 6000 watts reliably. Edit: my power claim there is before rise... good luck getting your subs and box to cooperate to actually see those results real world.
  9. Run PVC pipe along your frame and run the wire through that. then once you got all the wires in, fill the ends with some expanding foam to seal her off.. that section of wire (closest to the road, and more susceptible to the elements) will now be well protected.
  10. Links in my sig should give you some ideas as well. Good luck and make a good build log!
  11. Didn't you know. DC = Direct Copy ? Personally i have no idea where that came from, but i say if DC copied something, it was only to make it better.
  12. i said use full dimensions you gave, which would give the port a width of 10.5 at it's very bottom and just a hair under 10 at it's top. averaged at 10 wide.. i have no idea how you came up with 30 hz. Edit: ps that was a drawing i did for 2 10, i just used it for reference along with your measurements.
  13. Something like that would work fine. full measurements you gave, do the port 3.5" tall, 24 long for a tuning of roughly 36 hz.
  14. grab the ole DMM or test light and figure out what's going on. there's only 3 wires that could be effected. constant +, switched + and ground. figure out which one is shutting off, trace it back as far as you can into the dash, and if you see nothing going on, run a new one to the appropriate location, consult us with questions about where that location should be if theres ANY doubt in yoru mind of where to put it.
  15. lol. those angles aren't hard. draw it out on a board, work your angle out from there. I actually did that with my last box. drew it out. then held the saw up to it and angled the blade to match the angle i drew.. . i know i cheat.
  16. lol. no the more runs of 1/0 you do, the more the runs interfere with each other. So you get this fight with the electrons fighting at each other and not going anywhere. just sittin there in the middle of the wire acting like a bunch of idiots from philly.
  17. the smaller wire causes heat to build up, and everyone knows electricty and heat go hand in hand, therefore it's a good thing. use smaller wire gives you more power!
  18. first of all, to do a 0 gauge run, you have to have a piece of 0 gauge. Next you carefully strip one end of it and crimp on a proper terminal. Then you sprint as fast and as hard as you can till you collapse out of exhaustion. It increases power by building stamina.
  19. ewwww That is all 4th order, yes. subs facing up, no.
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