Sanitarium

I have a 9813 sittin on my desk right now has the motorized faceplate but only green buttons. the faceplate has a short in it where if you push a button too hard it blacks the whole radio out. so now i've just hacked the cd changer control cord and found the aux inputs for use to amplify my computer.

Hell, put 3 of em around your door, remote activate them (only come on when stereo is on) and hook an interrupt switch to the door handles (if stereo is on, let loose when the door handle is used)

power specs for subs are for singles, i've never heard of those subs myself but I'd shoot for a 2 cube box, slot ported to 30 - 35 hz, with no more then a 1000 watt amp.

This. Almost my own exact plans for a 2010 build.

Nothing like taking care of a bill. Now you can really tip them strippers eh?

1. you've ordered it but havne't gotten it yet. try calling Fi and see if you can exchange it if you don't open the box or you may get lucky and they haven't shipped it yet. 2. you could just get a second one :hairtrick: :hairtrick:

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 like that i'd go with a single 3" port for those subs.

you coun't the displacement of the port as the airspace in it PLUS the extra wood used to make it. so for a slot port its Internal WxHxL PLUS board WxHxL for one piece of board.

when you're overpowering a sub, you wanna go with a slightly smaller box. shoot for the bottom end of the recommeded range instead of the top end.

Hope he doesn't over power it

12x12x12=12^3=1728, you are correct

exactly, so the measurements i gave him would be perfect with the 23.75" of port. and to all those who decided to jump in like i don't know what I'm doing...

if saving files and opening files is all a computer ever did, there would be no difference. try encoding movie files, or try running linux and compiling the source code for firefox (20 minutes on my pc). games also use a lot of CPU, the faster pc with the same graphics card may (or may not) run that game smoother and faster. processing and editing large/high bitrate sound and music files also takes a lot of processing. The point is, while half the ordinary computer users don't need the upgrades, the fastest of the fast equipment out there wasn't produced with those people in mind. Those people rarely buy the best stuff on the market anyways. Which is why if you look a chart of price per performance, theres always a nice steep curve when you get toward the higher end.

check out his build log (link to it is in the august SOTM nominees thread)

I'll help ya with your box bro. I live out on legion lake, know where that is?

I just left douglasville on my way back here in villa rica not 20 minutes ago....

box design: 2.49 cubic feet after displacement, 23.75 inches of port, tuned to 31.54 hz, all 3/4 mdf. External measurements: 36x11x17.5 Port: slot port (put it all the way to one side) 9.5x2.5x 20" long (will be down the side and accross the back a little) If you need a visual or a cut sheet, that will take time.

Sounds like the previous user/owner did you a favor and blew it up for ya. It sucks that you couldn't experiment with it and all , but in all seriousness, if you're serious about car audio... (you're here so we assume you are!) Then you're gonna want a good HU, real amps, and if necessary a good eq meant to go in line with preamp signals ( RCAs)

coil rubbing wont cause a broken former like that... i'd say groundpounder decided to try motorpounder.

Red and black wire out the left side (back view) should be power and ground, the paired green and white wires should be + and - input from your headunit the wires on the right should be to the 4 speakers that the amp is capable of pushing (although it is a 2 channel). just look for matching color pairs, stripes or writing on the sides of one of each pair should indicate the - of that pair. Edit: don't see a remote wire so you're gonna wanna hook the power wire (red) up to a switched output. Use a test light or DMM to check current through whatever wire/fuse you decide to splice into to make sure it goes off with your key.

http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/801/detail.asp That's one of those old school eq/amplifiers. Honestly, for a descent system, i would just sell it.

what helped me learning to drive a stick, i would find a good rock point for my foot so instead of using my whole leg to try and be accurate with the clutch, i'd bury my heal into the floorboard and use my calf muscles alone. Basicly what you want to do is let off the clutch till you feel it start to grab while giving it a little gas, then when the car gets rollin, slowly let off the clutch while giving it more gas. Oh and once you get used to a stick, it's hard to make yourself drive an automatic.. i've found myself looking for the clutch in my truck often

Punctuation, use it.

So go get a headphone jack to rca adapter and hook an ipod or something similar straight up to your amps and test. If you get sound, it's your rca wires or HU. If you don't, it's your amp.

I'm working on a fiberglass box for mine atm. Check signature for the pics. 2 12"s , approx. 1.5 - 1.7 cubes. It's loud in the 40hz range but you can hardly hear it in the 30 hz range. Don't know how long I'm gonna be able to put up with it before i throw the old trunk box in in place of the center console again. ... it was 2.5 cubes ported to 31 hz and sounded gooooood. edit: even though my box isn't done, i'm already planning a budget for a blowthrough .... gotta muster the guts to cut my truck though.