mlstrass

vice probably isn't practical to use "inside the car"

I use 1/2 of a 60# dumbbell and a BFH. Portable, so you can use it almost anywhere. Then use a punch to stake the terminal in a few places and it will never come apart...

Your saying that means you missed the point of my post, and so did jon as it seems. oh well, ill carry on misunderstood and y'all carry on selling stuff that doesn't do a bit of good for half the target audience of this forum. Note the gfaphs had huge spikes down low, where most of us want deadening to begin with. you also dont have any 2'x1' panels in your car where the narrow end is attached to something and the rest just dangles. the metal in this test is obviously going to act differently than the metal in your car. this test simply shows the difference between the two products. and it obviously shows cld is MUCH better. With that said then how valid is his testing for showing what each deadener will do in a car environment???? Otherwise we're just assuming that the tiles will do better since the did better on his piece of sheet metal. Maybe in a car environment you won't notice as much of a difference since the panels are more rigid to begin with. Is there a way to secure the panel and test again??? And to me his tests showed that P&S could come very close to the other deadeners when double layered. Just that cost and installation times would go up. I used to get a 9" x 33' roll for $10, so it was nothing to do multiple layers throughout the car. I think I had around 12 rolls in my car, so $120 total. As I've mentioned in another thread my Altima had 3-5 layers of P&S and did over 160 on tones and 58+ on music and had ZERO rattles. His testing would seem to validate what I said as many seemed to doubt it.

So P&S for $10 a roll back in the day before CLD tiles were even out was just fine and cheaper then other products on the market by far. It's still holding up in my Altima after 4+ years, even the underside of the trunk lid and it's a black car. I used SDS tiles on the latest build as those are the way to go IMO since P&S prices have almost doubled in my area...

PM "moneybags" for a price quote. Had 36 of these in my garage the other day, cool little amps. Might hook one up in the daily to see how they do...

Not if you want to be able to change wiring config on the fly, then bolts are better I use SS hardware, 1/4-20 as that's plenty big enough

don't waste your $$$ on gorilla glue, doesn't bond very well. Titebond II or Elmer's pro will work fine. Get your cuts close and use caulk to seal up the inside. Should be no need for FG and resin for your wall. Mids would be no different there then a panel over the wall. If you move enough air the sound from the mids might get distorted on some songs no matter where you put them.

Q's are bottom heavy subs for sure, tune 28-30Hz and have at it with the Decaf stuff

Ring radiators need to be on-axis and mounted up high, so that may be a problem with the full format ones linked. IMO a single super tweeter like the XST or AQ would be more then enough for a single 8" mid. AQ will be easier to make fit since it's not nearly as deep as the XST, if that's a concern. You could also do a couple regular tweeters glassed into each A-pillar, so 4 total. That's what I'm running now to keep up with a 6.5" PB mid per door and they do a good job. These are the ones I run, not overly bright for a metal dome tweet. Used to be $13 each about 6 months ago... My link

Seleniums are not cheap speakers, they're just not overpriced like some of the PA stuff out there. A single 6.5" or 8" in each door and a PA style tweeter will easily keep up with your set up. PA stuff will get much louder then a regular comp set and can also sound very good. When someone mentions SQ people always seem to "assume" that imaging, stage height, ect... is what they mean when 99% of the time they mean "will it sound good to my ears." Shrilly tweeters, distorted mids being pushed too hard...stuff like that is what sounds bad to the average listener. Cheapo comp sets will never sound good, they'll just make noise to try and keep up with the bass. I've tried a few approaches to keep up with loud bass and PA speakers with decent power and properly tuned is the way to go IMO

Kicker is a better amp anyway...

Do you get a power or protect light when you power it up?

Can you hook an iPod directly to the amp to test it? Did you mess with any HU settings? I'm in Beach Park, so not far from you if you can't figure it out and want to stop by I could help you troubleshoot it

Great another WI car to beat up on us IL guys when we make the trip across the border Frost Off is normally the first show of the year in April, so you have plenty of time to get it done... lol yah the system will be all in by then, just prolly not finished with mids n highs. but we will see WI guys are always lacking in the mids/highs area, so you'll fit right in without them lol dont worry i wont be lacking at all, just wait.. Ready and waiting for a new WI victim

what's the specs on the new box?

I'd make the port bigger which will help to lose some box volume. I've had very good luck with 4.25-4.5net with AQ/DD subs. 16^2 port area and up to 20^2 for daily set ups... As stated the sub is loading off the trunk lid, so once you open the trunk you lose that loading wall.

copper HDC off that power level. Box specs look good for an HDC, just gotta pick tuning. I bought all my HDC's used and reconed them, easy way to save $$$$. I end up paying $250 for an alum coil HDC that way And Team DOA doesn't like Brian Just playin man....

also what is net size of box and tuning?

keep the trunk closed, yes it's that simple. Assuming you're rear firing the sub is loading off the back wall of the trunk which helps to control the cone. Opening the trunk is causing the sub to unload/lose control

Great another WI car to beat up on us IL guys when we make the trip across the border Frost Off is normally the first show of the year in April, so you have plenty of time to get it done... lol yah the system will be all in by then, just prolly not finished with mids n highs. but we will see WI guys are always lacking in the mids/highs area, so you'll fit right in without them

Port in the middle adds "free" bracing. Port along the bottom will more then likely lower tuning as the hatch/box will extend the port length. 8.5cubes net 16^2 port area per cube, tune to 35Hz if you play a lot of low stuff. You have 1kw per sub so 4.25net each will be fine. If you play a lot of Decaf stuff then make a port reducer to drop tuning even lower when you play that stuff. Around 12^2 of port area with the reducer...

If you have enough volume with a box built outside the car then do that as it is a LOT easier. Then slide it in place, bolt it down, and make trim panels. I'm doing a wall for 4 15's in a Crown Vic right now and it's been pretty challenging = PITA

Great another WI car to beat up on us IL guys when we make the trip across the border Frost Off is normally the first show of the year in April, so you have plenty of time to get it done...

why do you need 3-4 alts for a 150 set up? Yes for longer demos it would be nice, but 1-2 should be fine unless you're running a ton of power... And BTW 150's only sound loud for so long, you'll get used to it like anything else unfortunately

Just calculate the volume of a cylinder, same as you would a "square" enclosure.