LSN2meBoom916

You gonna wall the Integra? Or just glass the helloutta the ass end, make a top for it and use the WHOLE shebang as a Windowline-down box? David's doin the rebuild I assume? I'm all curious now

Not to POOP on you PARTY but I just saw this and IT is not correct.Dwright LISTEN UP: To increase OUTPUT by 3db, you must either double SD (cone area) with the same amount of power, double the power with the same cone area AND be able to make GOOD USE of that power (i.e. 200w rms to a 100watt/rms PAIR of speakers generally =fire coils), or DISPLACE twice the air.... That does NOT=TWICE AS LOUD....10db=twice as loud. It's a Logarithmic scale, base 10. But still, DC AUDIO FTW! If I din't already have too many subs I 'd totally be into some (4) lvl3 or lvl 4 12's.

Hmmm...ok. well unless I'm just totally misunderstanding what exactly ur asking...you wanna know why you can SEE the VC through those vent holes? If THAT's the Q then the answer is easy...its simply because the designer chose to put holes there so air could flow in and out as the speaker moved and that would provide air cooling for the VC. If there's some other Q here i guess just try askin it again, and I'll try to answer/better, it if I can, if I havn't already...you tell me. I think we're on diff pages for some reason.

dattsalotta26s.

Hmmmm.... You can see the voice coil?...are you missing a dustcap perhaps? Is it the older Vmax w/ the red surrounds and pulp (i think) cone? or the newer ones w/ the aluminum cone? I don't see in EITHER case how you could see the VC sticking up...? and..."above the face of the motor"....huh? You shouldn't be able to see that either....the face of the motor should be hidden by the spider/s, which would be covered by the cone which attaches to it at the center, and then that is topped off w/ the dust cap if there is one... So hmmmm....you got me buddy. Pix?

Np. Welcome to the good forum. (smd) Also just an aside... "Xmax is defined as the width of the voice coil that extends beyond the front plate plus 15% (See Diagram 2). This relates to how far the speaker can move in either direction without appreciable distortion." From: http://www.xtant.com/archives/html/techSupport/speakers.cfm

Damn bro You know this is STILL prolly my fav of em all. Lovin the EXT. and hahaha You know I DON'T sleep. haha 1am? bah. I woulda liked some BUMPAGE comin outta it or the Tahoe but It would prolly drown out the mids a bit more and the SC. Looks good tho.

You're partially right. Although this term is used "loosely" among many companys it's a lot like "real wattage" ratings. Everyone is gonna give the figure that makes them look the best. Some companies (the good ones) give their xmax rating in terms of "One way, linear" meaning the most USABLE excursion you can get out of a given sub before it starts moving NON-linearly (sideways or askew/at angle). Non linear or NOT straight in and out means the cone is moving in a way that will possibly permit its Voice coil to contact the inside of the magnet and short out or burn the coil (I'm sure there's a name for this area around where the voice coil resides... I wanna say shorting ring or maybe considered part of the gap? I'll have to look it up and edit this later). If the sub moves NON linearly (sideways or askew) enough to make contact with that part while the Voice coil is energized...=all bad. Blown sub. So yes it's how much the sub will move, and yes some companies give thier "peak to peak" measurement and others give it as "one way linear" (which means it's really twice the number they give..if ur accounting for positive+ stroke and negative- stroke) EDIT* I looked around and I guess I was right the 1st time The area in which the voice coil resides is referred to as "the air gap"..on more than one site I was reading...including: http://www.cyberus.ca/~ec091357/TheVoiceCoilAndMagnet.shtml Some good info here too http://www.angelfire.com/ultra2/london/

Grocery stores "bag boy" can make some ok $$ with tips too....basically anything with Tips would be a good idea since under tha table/tax free and since most folks wont give a "minor" decent hourly pay, so you gotta grab them tips to compensate. Just an idea, and yea a lot of the previous suggestions are worth lookin into^^^.

Put some shoes on.

I ran 2 CVR 15's-sealed, then changed to 4 CVR 12's sealed. 146.3 TL windows down 1/2way, mic in the kick is my best burp to date. It COULD be louder but at what expense? SQ?...prolly. AIRSPACE? for SURE. I will be trying some ported boxes in my next builds But I will also put the same subs (not cvr's) in sealed setups and choose my preference. I have always "had enough output" from my sealed setups and I'm kinda partial to nice tight bass rather than sloppier ported or bandpass designs (from what I've heard and built) but I have a feeling unless I can get the same tightness out of a MUCH louder ported setup, it would not be worth the change.

Thats pretty damn pimp right there sir. +1 from me for doing the xovers how u did..looks bettere that way IMO too. Good call. Nice work all around as usual. Keep it up meng.

Hmmm.....I posted B4 but I dunno if it got deleted or my DSL crashed as I submitted it But i'll put it back up: I took a JD Audio 12" to an outdoor range and shot it to hell w/ a MAK-90 (Civilian AK47) Other than that.... I was bumpin my tunes right after I put it in back in '02-03ish and I was flashed some dirty Vagina at a stoplight...

I meant ###'s on MIC? ever get it on a TL? I would imagine after all that you must have...

Holy tittyf*ckinghell dude! ##'s? BTW i'mma ask round see if I can move some of these for ya. 40?

I get nast looks, heads shaking "no no no", get flipped off, cut off, brake checked, windows down w/ irrate soccor moms/old folks/ random douches....all the time...as long as my musics on...the hating is in effect. I am pretty considerate I think...I always lower volume at lights or put the knob at minimum and leave the mids loud and bass "lessened" (not quiet but MUCH less than full tilt) If they start out hating on me I give em the "I can't hear you" and I turn it up and then kinda look back like "aren't you glad you were bitchin about how loud it WAS?" Or just laugh, point at them, and smile.

Not to hate on the master hisself or nuthin....but why not use hot glue? I used it on my pods to mount the rings and dowels and it worked perfectly. I have heard that spray adhesive will re-liquify when resin hits it and w/ever it's holding will let go...but I have beeeen doing it that way and not had any issues with the 3m 70 or 77 either...so..... I dunno. I REALLY wanna try some CA Glue just to see the diff but I dunno.... if it's just "a luxury"...I generally get by just fine making things as hard on myself (haha hard on) as possible (one power outlet, mediocre tools, ZERO work space, etc) but I kinda pride myself on being able to get er done that way,and if I ever CAN aford/have the luxury I guess I couldnt turn it down.

Where you IN or anywhere near texas? Where you playing any Paul Wall, Z-Ro, Slim Thug, or Mike Jones, etc.....?

what ever happened to the pix of it lit up bein posted...never?

I just can't wait til he starts sellin off the 10s*droooool* Dibs on 4-8 of em if the price is kosher.

Beat me to it and FUCKING HAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAA. Get em chevy. <---really LOLing over this for some reason.

I was just wondering if its goin in the old Benz.

Looks good. Nice work on the carpet job. What subs/amps/vehicle involved? For your ride? or a customers?

HAHAHHAHAHAThat close quarters eh? In that case... I SHALL pass then. As cool of cats as we both are...the no homo rule still applies. Sorry Chicken. Soon as the semesters DONE http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif I'm def gonna stop by and get my ears raped...3 times if possible... 1st:Civic (never heard it) 2nd: The Hoe (Its been a while and the new subs..on a warm day w/ windows down I gotta hear) 3rd: If I aint deaf yet...da Hoopty. I will bring a couple extra sets of drawls.

Poor lil noob/Redshirt. (If you ever go to an autozone look for someone in a GREY shirt..they are management...no garauntee they are not dumb as shit either..thats case by case as with anyone in life, but at least try to start at the top) That's A HUGE problem at 99% of stores like this (Kragen/Pep Boys/AutoZone..and I'd assume Checker/Advance/etc)...on top of the fact that they continually "dumb down" the system so dumber and dumber "kids" can get hired on as "cashier jockies" that really have no place in an autoparts store, as well as moving farther and farther away from any form of IN HOUSE training.If you have a Stupid store manager...all your red shirts (base pay bottom-dwellers) will be "taught" some pretty bad habits, if they teach them anything at all. No sir.Trust me bro, I would NOT let this kind of thing happen at my shop. Period. Correct..in more ways than one. Correct.That machine Is designed to hook to the pos+ and neg- terminal posts AND have the AMP PROBE/CLAMP on the power wire coming off the battery. It will read rpm, Voltage, Regulator Voltage, amp flow/draw be it positive or negative, and tell you if any DIODEs are faulty (diode pattern good/bad...but gives no cause) The Bald black guy should have noticed the not hooked up amp clamp, as well as done a visual of the "too many gawd damn alternators" before he ever even tried the test.