STEvil

Bouncing my wiper blades a bit.. wasnt cranked. A sine sweep.. and we notice an issue: Excursion, and better view of the issue: Couldnt get a good shot of the steering wheel or doors flexing.. or box bouncing, guess my camera just doesnt like picking it up, oh well.

nnnnnoooooooooo poor t-line D:

hope your alienware doesnt turn into a $1500+ paperweight like mine did, and the fuckers refused to RMA it.

I'd do them out the front or back, more likely the back and tune slightly high so you get a 6th order effect somewhat. should be easy to do with a couple elbows.

220v 3-phase maybe? LOL

15 amp fuse.. POS amp.

You might try emailing the hifonics guys, might get lucky if the baskets are the same depth.. may need a coil from somewhere else though.

as long as you dont tune it to Fs... aim a bit lower.

if there's a law on walls, then cube vans are illegal.

Nah, not loose at all Big box, all coils in parallel per driver, series between drivers. Regardless I have to wait until I get another one before I can commit to the recone stuff..

How does a 3" coil fit on a 4" former? edit - I'd rather go with other coils actually, the Kore quad 1.5's have crazy impedence rise.

Hydraulic is a form of hex crimping, just use a hydraulic pump to run the crimper instead of mechanical force... so mechanical force would be 1.2 probably..

MA Audio HardKore 18's. Same basket as you've got up there. 2 of them work perfect right now, the third has a melted coil. Quad 1.5 coils on them. actually may need 4, I just found one for sale for $150 hahahaa.. edit the one I found is a different basket design and surround I think.. hmm.. Mine are 6-spoke like you've got in the first post... here's a vid of them: Maybe it was just the 15's that used this style basket.. http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/khan351/DSC02180.jpg Here's about all there is for specs on them.. 15's have a 3" former, 18's have a 4".. http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/khan351/DSC02185.jpg

Best: Hydraulic crimp. Second best: Solder then hammer/vise. Third best: solder fourth best: weak-ass crimping tools.

Nuts.. I was gonna get 3 recones from you for my 18's and those are basically what I wanted to build lol. Only catch is I dont know if my motors are deep enough for the excursion or not, and I THINK they have 4" coils....

Safer? No. Work fine? Sure.

as many XXX 18's as I could get and stuff them in a massive t-line in a suburban..

might have pinched the wire when it tore the coating off. Give it a good inspection, if its broken just cut it then get some heatshrink for 0 guage and a butt-connector. Shouldnt be more than $10 I would think. Would be a good idea to crimp the connector, can get all the parts from a local large electrical store and they might even lend you the crimper.

Step 1: solder. Step 2: hammer/vise. Step 3: pull-test. Step 4: profit.

The big ones or the little nuthugger versions? I wouldnt mind having either of the big ones, but the nuthugger ones just suck.

no, surface area is not fine.

Whats a couple hours in the lifetime of an alternator? I've got a 105 amp POS stocker in my truck and i've been beating on it more than a year.

make some out of huge LED's

as long as you kept thick metal objects 10 feet away you'd be fine (need thickness or your magnetism is weak). I'm sure it would get good pull to the frame of the car though lol

You can provide all the cooling you want, it will burn out with time if you drive it to its limit (my bad on not saying it was based on running the equipment to its limit in the previous post).