STEvil

Did you get the transformer 1 or 2? the 2 kicks ass, the 1 is overpriced for what it is now.

Takes a lot more than that to make a decision.

the same as in free-air, make the cone move forward and backwards, although slightly easier due to less atmospheric content.

epoxy

after, we added a little too much, but tried to fill the cold solder that was there. Did you make sure it bonded to the board? As to thermal interface material, you can get it dirt cheap. Just use wheel bearing grease ; ) Oh, and for the record, more is not better. If you've got a poor surface to surface connection and no pressure then adding TIM between does nothing to help. Fix the problem otherwise the TIM is just a thermal insulator.

is that blob before or after the fix....?

8-20mm sizing: http://www.tradett.com/products/u38987p308676/cnc-router-bits.html Took me 2 minutes checking parts suppliers to find those. As to guide you use the top plate as the guide, not the magnets. Yes you would need a different bit than those ones for the first cuts. Do you think it would be hard to put a towel through a 1/8" gap? I mean, really? As to a lathe in the garage, I have access to 6 (and a milling machine too), though I admit they are technically not in "my" garage as I dont have one in town. edit Totally forgot to address the BL loss, my bad. Pole piece can have a pipe sheath slid over it to make the gap tighter again, though it may not really be needed depending on what coil you put into the gap.

No, he said you need a dual 1 ohm (also a dual 4 ohm would work) sub. Wiring two 1 ohm coils in series produces a 2 ohm load. The amps when strapped will see the 2 ohm load as 1 ohm each. Just like old 2-channel amplifiers when running bridged mode.

Neither work... What happens when you take magnitized metal, and then start cutting it. Where are those shavings going to go???? Inside the motor... You will never get them out without taking apart the woofer.. They will scratch and damage every coil you put in it. Besides the fact your not fiting a router bit of anysorts in a gap that is smaller then 1/4inch let alone how will you end up keeping it circular. You would need to use a trace bit, and you run into the the problem of the ferrite magnet slugs are no where near the same internal diameter of the top plat gap. The magnets slugs usually have 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger internal diamater then the top plate gap. The woofers magnet force comes from the top plate. This is where all the ferrite slugs are focusing the magnetic force, that thin little top plate, not the entire height of the motor. Put a towel in the motor when you lathe it. Trace bits are to keep things even, hence it would stay circular as long as you handle them correctly. Yes it would be hard to find a bit to fit the gap. Adjust the bit in the router to use the upper non-cutting surface as the trace guide when finishing the cut at the underside of the top plate. No, it wouldnt be perfect and yes it would be messy, but it is doable. The lathe is the best option without taking the motor apart.

Yes, you do! You have to demagnetize it, or it be a pita to take it apart, then machine the top plate opening bigger, then put it together, magnetize it, then build it up. bumpinbuick did it to these motors on CACO. Im sure he has pics. Two other options 1: Steel router bit 2: Big-ass lathe and just clamp the motor in the jaws. Careful about heat when cutting in either case...

you could use a router bit made for steel and run it around the top plate to get your required size without taking it apart. Just make sure you put something in the gap so you dont have it full of filings.

or if you're not using a laptop press alt+prnt screen. should leave a couple inches of room between port and rear hatch.

take measurements so you know the wheels wont stick way out and look dumb

go to some offroad supply sites, or you can change your hub for one with the correct bolt pattern. Might also consider checking tire shops to see if they have correct pattern 22's and are interested in a trade. be careful with the standoffs, if you put a lot of weight on them they can cause excess leverage on the axle and wear out the bearings.

dual 2 ohm means you can wire them as 0.5, 2, or 8 ohms. Probably best to wire at 2 ohms. Series the coils on each sub then parallel the subs to the amp.

Can you move the cone up and down an inch or so easily without feeling the coil rub the motor?

What a crappy company.. they have ripoff simpsons characts on their web page, lol. http://www.midtownsounds.com/i433md-sw8001d.html 1800RMS @ 1 ohm looks to be your best. 1200w RMS @ 2ohm if you want to play it safe... now you just need to tell us if they're putting single 2 ohm coils on each sub or dual 2 ohm coils on each...

broke a piece of the magnet? They probably dropped it..

pro's could have set it perfectly, but that doesnt mean he didnt mess with it or toss in a CD with boosted levels or who knows what else.. same goes for plugging in an ipod or anything really. My bet goes to the amps cooking the subs though.

Its a sub, crank it up.

Need to take out the comma between power and guarantees in the last pic.. I didnt read any other really Thanks for the tools btw steve

more cone means less excursion to for the same output and also gives the ability to go lower frequency wise before running out of excursion, assuming each uses a similar coil/motor setup that can attain the same excursion levels. 15mm xmax 15" vs 25mm xmax 12" would be a toss-up for example. Motor all depends on the design of the motor and the coil. Could be a tight gap or a loose gap, not to mention depth, back-plate design, pole design (solid vs ported), and top plate design.. Tons of things to consider.

just swap them at the amp. Put something over the coil vent (the hole in the end of the magnet) if it has one to see if it stops.

reverse wiring or use phase control on amp or use phase control on head unit.. pick 1 not all 3. Could be tinsel slap, could be a loose spider, could be bottoming out, could be coil rock (they dont always move linearly)..