kalilac619

The DD M4 is essentially the same as the AQ 3500.1 the DD M4a is the same board as the NS-1 and is rated 5k+12v and 7k at 14.4

heard it at the lake perris show,that van aint no joke.Lol

never mind issue fixed and downloaded

whats the cone area difference on these compared to the older ones ?

I'm in there like swimwear !!!!

Yeah I do!! I was thinking about switching to the FI sp's if I had the room I'd snatch 2 of yours up in a heart beat

Your w7's got down!!! Yeah I was surprised with them myself Lol

I wouldn't mind bass racing my 13w7s until I recone my mayhems

Totally agree

San Diego if your that far south

just downloaded it and i must say my mayhem's are loving it

Today a guy calls up asking if he needed an appointment for an alignment i said no the rack is free bring it in little did i know the car was a 93 honda civic vx hatchback drag car with skinny's and race slicks.. he even drove it 10 miles from his house here.in my 12 years as an auto mechanic i must say this is a first for me LOL.. p.s for anyone thats in to specs motor was a built k20 rsx type s motor laying down 260hp all motor and 401 when squeezing 150 shot direct injection NOS kit runs an 11.7 1/4 mile

from the things i've heard about em, you'll need much more power than a mere 1000 watts rms. I've got 1 vvx 12 and I'm putting that much power to that 1 sub Why is it everyone thinks you have to run 10000 watts to every sub for it to perform good? The sub is rated 500 watts. Telling someone it will not perform good at the power the manufacturer rated it at is ridiculous. . . couldn't have said it better myself...

id try to avoid any oil additives if possible as they can produce sludge build up, try jumping up to a thicker oil first like a 10w-40/50 or 20w-50 and then if that doesn't help the best one ive seen from being a mechanic for the past 12 years is lucas as LT mentioned...and yes on the royal purple products

3.5 cubes is about the best for a tc 15 I've owned about every tc 15 made and 3.5 tuned at 30hz is where they like ...

I have a few reasons for choosing a sealed enclosure. vs A sealed enclosure at 6 cubic feet has a better frequency response curve than that of a vented enclosure. Also, since I'm running a vented enclosure currently, I'm losing a lot of sound under 40 hz(12db/octave) + the 12 db/octave I'm losing from the amp's subsonic filter. I want a sealed box, not a bunch of people telling me to go ported. out of all of those box specs your best bet is the 6 cu ft ported deep bass box.i owned L7s 15's when they first came out and tried everyone of those boxes plus 2 other ones, best sounding was the 6 cubes box. id even take the single 15 in that box over 2 of them sealed just my 2 cents...

looks more like a mid 90's LS series... this is the magma version ..

LOL no prob

no prob!yeah i know what you mean.just checked there's no call for a rear adjustment with a solid rear unless there's panhard bar installed

more then likely you just need a toe n go(what we call it at my shop)where we set toe and check camber and caster and set accordingly ,also rears usually only get a camber adjust if possible or if an after market camber kit is installed

hahaha mine does the same and wont disengage until i turn it down

its ok when the air bag light comes on its letting you know that they're disabled thats all

mine does that daily if im really beating on my system...well 2 AA mayhems on 6k is kinda like a small car accident LOL!

Either or would work or if you could get the pm-1 same as the stinger/odyssey 2150 to put in back that would that would be better