ChevyBoy95

get the bdCP version and run at 2 ohms instead of .5 which you should never do with a 1 ohm stable amp.

ib4l no vs threads....

positive to chassis.... WOW. CHASSIS IS GROUND

wrap the wood in speaker carpet, would look a ton better.

DC is expensive but not sundown.... HA but seriously, sony xplod 12s FTW

it doesnt "cut out" the highs, when you slow, and wavelength gets longer lowering the frequency of the wave so the "highs" will be slightly quieter.

yes, but with the minor changes can cause big results. Much of what we buy comes from the same place, but the difference is the testing and R&D they do to make it excel over other companies with closely related parts/build style. This may apply to crossfire, it may not, just stating a little generality so to speak.

zip ties in the last pic!!! KOB WUZ HERE!

and you never go full retard

mine didnt, but on camera it will look like it does, and flashing during voltage dip, no, i would burp and drop from 14.2 to 12.6 and no change in brightness would happen.

dakota>stinger>pretty much any other cheap brand.

some type r's have 2.6in coil iirc and some have 2in coils.

drop the max wattage bull shit, not trying to be rude, but the majority of max ratings are put on the box to make you think you have something you really dont, and max being whatever multiple of the rms rating means nothing. If you want triple the power to the woofers, get something that does 12,000 watts RMS at whatever ohm load. if you want rated power to the woofers, get something that does 4,000 watts RMS at whatever ohm load STOP THINKING MAX.

Have nothing to do with a maxrratin. Pulse Car Audio burped a AA Arsenal with a 10 times higher RMS power, sub survived several burps. There is a thing called boxrise, that means from boxdesign to boxdesign the Ohmload fluctuate. Most subs can take a over on there RMS rating, but it´s not recommanded. Link to the burped Arsenal http://www.stevemead...swells-ddbeast/ this seems to be a little too much info to soon, OP still goes of max ratings, dont bring in box rise, it will mindfuck and confuse him. not dissing you OP just seems like you have a little to learn before worrying about box rise.

going off max ratings.... great. you would need 2500 WATTS RMS for 5 subs you would need 4000 WATTS RMS for 8 subs no more no less.

dont use with -15db, use the 0db/-5db edit: f'n auto correct

i would say wall with 4 CVXs or L7 15s on 2 kicker 2500s as far as sub stage.

you dont connect to the - speaker terminal when using the dd-1. just the ground (chassis) and the speaker positive on the master amp iirc (because the other positive on the slave is essentially the negative).

i like this guy, he was actually understanding.

For AQs i would ask Ami and probably no one else, i think he said they like 16sq in per cube.

no, Sd is. 4 12s - 1976cm^2 2 18s - 2318cm^2

4 12s is roughly 380sq in 2 18s is roughly 440sq in (these are by using pi*r^2 and with the cutout diameter)

that number is almost completely irrelevant, anyone who would purely buy a subwoofer off of that needs to really rethink what they are doing. And that is 1 watt (2.83v) at 1 meter away, secondly i think it is also free air. When would you ever feed a sub 1 watt, free air, and listen to it ~3ft away while inside a vehicle? Yes it is sensitivity, but basing how well a sub will perform off of that is ludicrous. pro audio mids and tweets, yes, subwoofers, no.