ChevyBoy95

Who does the install work? looks good...

Patience my friend. Some companies take months to get products from... An depending on te quality, people are happy to wait. As far as mechman, they will take care of you, just be patient, maybe send another email I a few days if no response, and I mean a few work days.

meh, i dont care, if you set up a place ill contribute and what not. and i have that same connection error deal, but can still connect and works 100%

Certified RMS @ 1ohm (test stops @ 1% distortion) - 1500watts un-certified RMS @ 1 ohm (test stops @ clipping) - 1700 watts dynamic burst RMS @ 1 ohm (test stops @ clipping) - 1725 watts dynamic burst RMS @ .8 ohms (test stops @ clipping) - 1805 watts 6730

I can switch you to survival if you want it yea do it, that would be cool.

how do you get survival?

zv4 10in subwoofer.

are you talking about an IB setup?

lol, i just said that.... haha. but it is good to see multiple people on the same page.

x2. The best thing to do is either with a DD-1 or a scope..... check for signal clipping after the HU, then check for signal clipping after the epicenter on full volume un clipped HU volume, Then with HU at full unclipped and epicenter at full unclipped, plug into the LC-1 and max out the LC-1 knob, then plug the RCA's into the amp and set the amps gains. LC-1 doesnt alter the signal, it just regulates the voltage. edit: and you will want your epicenter flat when you set the gains. And remember, it is better to lower the peaks, then it is to boost the valleys in a response curve with an epicenter.

4 is the end goal, but for now 3 D3100s will hold me at 13v full tilt. I still at 12.4-12.5v full tilt right now on most songs.

You are not going to stay at 13V at max 6-7K watt draw with a 270amp alt. You will drop into the 12V range. 12V batteries only rest at 12.9V. So on a 600amp draw you would have lets say 230amps from the alt going to the system (40 to run the vehicle with ac and all the electrical) and the rest pulling from the batteries. That would be 370amps coming from the three batteries or approx 123 amp per battery. That will put you in the 12V range. Only way to stay in the 13V range is to have a lot more alt power. well, have a 3rd D3100 on the way...... should be here tomorrow. and here are the pics of the ones i got a couple weeks ago...

all the fun is people talking shit then running a train on their team game after game and laugh as they rack up a loosing streak.

The battery works when the car is connected to the battery, electrons are allowed to flow. 3 things in bat. There are 2 connectors that go out of the battery. These are called the cathode and anode. There is also a solution that the cathode and anode sit in (Battery Acid). When used a chemical reaction occurs between the acid and the anode (positive terminal) which releases electrons that flow through the circuit. These reenter the battery through the cathode (negative terminal) where another chemical reaction is happening between the cathode and solution. The electrons are incorporated in the products of this reaction. in car batts the cathode is lead dioxide (PbO2), the anode is a sponge of lead (Pb), and the solution is sulfuric acid (H2SO4). When the battery is being used, the 2 connections react to form lead sulfate (PbSO4) by reacting with the sulfuric acid. When a battery dies, it is because one or more of the chemical reactants is more or less used up or is lost somehow due to leaks or other loss. if its not connected, there is no way for electrons to be made to keep battery alive. also there can be sulphation that can occur on the plates which slows or stops the reaction. yes if the battery was made so poorly with bad material, the plates may warp or touch due to shock? which would short the battery i believe. but usually there are 6 seperate cells so chances of that happening arent great, i would think yep 6 2v cells and for those who dont know what sulfation is, when batteries are in use, small sulfate crystals form (as part of its reaction), normally this isn't a big deal, but during charge deprivation (long time with low voltage), the lead sulfate converts to a stable crystalline (solid) that deposits on the negative plates causing build up of large crystals (BAD). As the amount of large crystals build up on the plates, it will reduce the battery’s active material that is responsible for high capacity and low resistance.

I have it currently, it is cool, but glitchy. Sometimes i have to reset, refresh, change choices in the app to let me proceed through picking a vehicle, and sometimes when done it doesnt bring up the "how many watts rms......" box to enter into. I like it though, just needs refining.

Thanks guys. Will be ordering soon and update this with some pics

anyone? thinking of 2 D3100's and a S3400, but seems like not much battery to do a whole lot. Kinda tight on budget as well, i can get what I posted, but would have to save up a bit for more.

I've been playing around with it and I get 2 xp3000s and a s3400 for a starter. Would that really be enough with a 270a alt to maintain 13.0v at max draw?

Mine, 1995 Chevy ext cab. Realistically like 800rms for Mids, 4500rms for bass, but I like overkill more than just enough

Equipment: Addictive Audio 500.1 @ .67 ohms PPI BK800.4 7krms is for cushion This is for a daily set up, just want to stay in the high 12s and low 13s full tilt on music. Have a 270a alt, not sure what it does at idle, but it will be played while driving so idle is no biggie. What im looking to do is see what I would need, basically trying to refresh my reserve. I dont want this to factor in, but for whatever it is worth, will probably have dual 270's in the near future.

but anywhoooooo, great looking ride steve, love the plastidip on the 24s.

no it isnt. The national average is 15k a year, 180k is just over 16k a year average. Then depending on if it highway miles or not, stop and go, etc. My truck had 204k when I got it, 224k now, still runs like a champ. As long as a vehicle is taken care of, regular oil changes, little maintenance and greasing, it will last until the floor rots out. edit: info has changed a bit, here is the info link. 20-54yrs old is 15k. If it had a male owner, 16k a year is under driven by this standard. http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/ohim/onh00/bar8.htm

the bubbling i stated in the other, i saw first hand, and Rusty explained it to me (the owner of DC). The massive heat build up can cause gasses while the resin/glue starts to melt and evaporate on the windings, with the flatwound coils, there is no where for this gas to go, so it takes the path of least resistance, the aluminum former, which it will bubble out and create a ridge all the way down to the bottom of the former where it can escape. this ridge can touch the pole and cause a rattling sound. your problem might be this, it might not, but a recone is probably the only thing to fix your said "rattle". man if i have to recone 1 i might as well just recone both to upgrade them ( i have 2 woofers i had only 1 playing) if you cut the dustcap off without hurting the cone, looking down to the pole and coil will be your best bet. if you have the issue i stated above, you will see something like this.... which kind of dustcap do you have?

the bubbling i stated in the other, i saw first hand, and Rusty explained it to me (the owner of DC). The massive heat build up can cause gasses while the resin/glue starts to melt and evaporate on the windings, with the flatwound coils, there is no where for this gas to go, so it takes the path of least resistance, the aluminum former, which it will bubble out and create a ridge all the way down to the bottom of the former where it can escape. this ridge can touch the pole and cause a rattling sound. your problem might be this, it might not, but a recone is probably the only thing to fix your said "rattle".