In an Alero. Hell yeah! Haha. But if you plan to wall, it's something you should bring up in this situation. You'll be investing a lot of money as well as adding A LOT of weight to the vehicle. You're losing your ability to use your rear view mirror. I'd put it off for a little while and try to show him that you really have a passion for this sport so he may not think that you're just jumping into something that is going to impair your vehicle so much. lol
Last vehicle. Nobody does anything loud in an Alero.
It might just be that I'm on mobile, but with the shadows on the dri er's door picture, it makes them almost look the same, or hard to tell the difference. So it's hard for me to give you a "this or that" answer.
Either way, them panels look great!
I agree to the terms.
2005 Chevrolet (Daewoo Rattlebox) Aveo
Good Luck TygaTony. You seem like a relatively new user. Sound deadening can be a great addition to any stereo application. Make the Buick sound real nice!
Oh I believe so too. It's only seeing around 500wrms, That's 100 less than the rms of a sub that will take four times its rated power. Lol
This was just thrown together out of scrap 4ga and the box came from a friends suv. It was supposed to be a pair of d4's in side-by-side boxes ran at 1-ohm. So now it's seeing a friends ap1500 @ 2-ohms in a sub up port side jammed into an Aveo trunk.
Box tuned to 35Hz and this is a 25Hz note. I love it. Can't wait to get my 15" XL's in on my DC 5k and 28Hz daily port.
If you have to point out to him that his electrical is quite insufficient, don't you think a DC 7.5k is a little much for him to try to put on a pair of XL's?
But really, less subs, less amplifiers, more electrical.
Wall a pair of 18" XL's on a single AQ3500.1d. Spend the rest on your electrical. You want clean power. I really don't think you understand how loud just a wall with a pair of properly ran 18" XL's will be.
Not to mention less strain on the car.
Not sure if you'll like it. Slowed it down, played with the intro, have you peaking at 32Hz, and then cleaned it up. This was just a quick 3 minute edit before class.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=85QBA6X9
Mind set on a pair of 15" XL's on my DC 5k. Double the cone area, multiply the power by more than 10, and add an efficient enclosure for this vehicle tuned low. Gonna have to make a few friends to hold my car together at events.
^^^ Good idea. I am actually testing out a buddy's Ap1500 in my car that he ordered for his home towers i'm building for him and noticed it had an auxiliary input for the remote. I was like lolwut. Haha
That's probably what the AP dealer told him. 1500's are more conventional than the 3k's for daily using customers therefore if they claim higher clamped results, they can push the product more easily. But really, throw two Ap1500's in a case and you have an Ap3k.
If you have the electrical you can run the 1500's below 1-ohm too.
Ap1500 has 4-gauge inputs, the 3000 has single 1/0 since it's essentially running power to two 1500's.
Speaker inputs on the 3k are internally wired in series so each channel at 1-ohm would be 2-ohms final on the board. But this is exactly right, go for the cheaper option. Gain matching and running multiple bass knobs and taking up more space for mounting two cases would be the real cons of two Ap1500's if these are the two options.
Not a big Audiopipe guy, but I have looked into them before for some "cheap" power.
Haha sorry, I was just jumping around trying to get everything in one video. Some shots looked better tall such as the close up hatch flex, then some shots looked better wide such as shots of the whole hatch. This is with one layer of Alphadamp on the roof and hatch. It honestly made a big difference.
If you ever plan on finishing the box, it is much easier to just paint the port before you apply carpet or vinyl or whatever material you choose to use.
That's the story behind 95% of the painted port boxes you'll see.