Decaf

if it says 0-18db is a bass boost knob "KICKEQ™ Boost: Variable to +18dB (ZX300.1 selectable +12dB), centered @ 40Hz"

you should not use that knob. its a signal booster at 45hz from 0-18db reset with dd-1 not using bass knob and see how you like it, starting with -5db for safer setting until you stop smelling coil

just downloaded the mixtape from datpiff... 39hz and 29hz are the main notes in the song. Song is clipped +2db but thats total including mids/highs, either way its a bit clippy Peaks are between -10db and -4db thats why it smelled, voicecoils were getting warm from clipping amp and playing below tuning (which lowers power handling)

what song where you playing? if you play a song louder than the tone used to set gains with dd-1 you run the chance of clipping the amps output, in conjunction with voltage drop as current draw will increase and efficiency will go out the door.

many variables but heres food for thought, its not about the area of a circle, its about comparing the SD or piston area case in point, FI Q 12s vs FI Q 18 2 12s SD=2(481)=962cm^2 1 18 SD= 1210cm^2 thats a difference of 38.44sq^2 in favor of the 1 18" using the piston area 2 12s AREA=226.08sq^2 1 18 AREA=254.34sq^2 thats a difference of 28.26sq^2 in favor of the 1 18" using area of a circle in other words, SD is the accurate way to compare speakers because of the surrounds used, the area of a circle is a vague general way to compare (i'd likely pick 2 12s because of the smaller box size and higher power handling since you have twice the voicecoil)

tried finding it yesterday too, i had mine set to 40posts per page.

warhorse is a fail, PITA

Wood glue does not work because its sticky like CA glue It works by entering the porous wood and chemically bonding the wood while under a clamping force

Good ear. Below is a pic of exactly what I'm talking about. It's whats making that sound as it extends from sub bass notes into midbass notes. If it only had even order harmonics it would blend much better with the note, but odd order harmonics are much more noticeable and artificial sounding.

Just checked, lowest is 26/27hz peaks also at 53/80/107hz, that's 2f/3f/4f of the fundamental 26/27hz, in other words the bassline has harmonic distortion proven by the peaks while lowest note is playing highest bass note is 53hz, but has peaks of 105/158hz at the same time, which again is the 2f/3f of the fundamental 53hz, again thats harmonic distortion and why it sounds the way it does

1) .5ohm daily with stock alts 2) over rms 3) uneducated on gain/settings 4) lack of information... what was ur voltage drop? How much current are your amps drawing? Whats your box volume/port area? What do you mean by "my music"? 5) gains are exponetial, each click your turn it up the more it makes a change, same with crossovers Those are your problems

Song has a distorted bassline. You should be able to see the waveform looks like a slide instead of a nice even wave. Gives it that distinct bassline. I think its 29/30 when i checked a few months ago

For most alpines +15 is flat. Anything less than +15 is lowering the signal

needs to be on +15 to get full 2v voltage

did you have sub level on +15 when trying 40hz? did you have it switched to sub preout, not rear? if it was on rear did you have the HPF on? smd dd-1 goes from 1.2v to 125v you need .75v to get signal light to turn on

you want to be using the bottom USB ipod connection, the headphone jack will not produce good quality music because the Ipods DAC blows monkey balls. When you connect using USB it bypasses the Ipods DAC and uses the headunits what does the loudness setting do??...and do i go "flat" or "off" for the ipod eq??...i have both options loudness adds signal boost to all notes, it will distort the signal. use full clean volume with loudness off flat and off are the same on ipod

whats the crossover point

you want to be using the bottom USB ipod connection, the headphone jack will not produce good quality music because the Ipods DAC blows monkey balls. When you connect using USB it bypasses the Ipods DAC and uses the headunits

the AB bullets play a bit lower than nendos. you can use same crossover point as nendos unless you have -24db slope crossovers, then u can lower maybe closer to 4khz to blend better and to sound less localized

cross the nendos at 5khz, the nendo pa 6.5s play up to 8khz so they will have no issue being crossed near 3.5-4khz 150v limit although i remember reading that that went up to 300v with a new component. if the frequency you want isn't listed on the cd included you can still have someone make a tone for you, say 3672hz, and it will work the same.

quoted from sundown I got the sample of my v.2 SAE-1200D in... testing is going quite well. Honestly... I need to change the part number to SAE-1500D on these *laughs* TEST 1: 1 ohm nominal @ 60 Hz 1440 Watts 54.6 V 26.4 A 2.07 ohms ** Over rated power at 1 ohm nominal with 2x rise

v2 hands down got rid of vibration issue with v1 board, different layout. sae1200dv2 are basically 1500w amps since they were rated at 12.8v and most others rate at 14.4v

u need VAS and Fs

did you or previous owner "hot swap" the rcas

distortion comes from clipping, and can be present before clipping. two separate things. the clip light on the amp is lighting when rail voltage meets output voltage, so if you play a song louder than the track you used to set sub amp gains, you will clip/distort. so you're basically saying that the music is most likely playing louder than the test tone from the dd-1.? i used track 5 (40hz, -10db) to tune it.. should i use the -5db track instead.? yes, the red light will blink less with that setting