memphisBred

To slow it down to mid 30's it's going to require the song be slowed by about 35%, which will sound like ass, IMO.

Highlighting one second instead of 15-20 gives you a more accurate dB reading of that particular frequency. But if you just want to see what notes are in the song, then doing it how z-ro said will work great.

I don't see anything.

Someone needs to put a link to the Rockford t4000 thread where Boon talked about amps and how certain inner parts worked. I'm on my phone.

Less voltage = less output = harder on equipment, etc. Low enough voltage sends amps into protect. Not a whole lot of good comes from voltage drop.

AA's aren't under 80$ and they are 7".

Mechman had the best online prices when I bought mine.

I figured I'd offer...I have a 125.2 with about a month and a half of playing time.

Spax Screws work great. No pre-drilling required.

James is a good guy. Bought a Audison LRx 2.9 from him and shipping was on time and the product works great. Very helpful.

I have a never used AudioControl OverDrive Line Driver if you figure out the problem/are interested.

It'll be sent out Monday. Just a heads up/bit of info. When first turning it on, press reset. Calibrate it before using it. To do so, take off the battery cover on the back and there will be a "probe test" message to the far right. There's a piece of metal in a hole next to the writing(easy to see). There is a button on the scope that reads "Probe x1/x10". Set it to x10. Set the positive lead to x10(there's a switch). Place the positive lead in the probe test metal. Then there's a rotating slot on the positive lead. Turn the slot until the wave on the screen is as squared as possible. Then your good to go. Ask any questions you got.

Now send me moniez.

I have a Velleman HPS10. If your interested.

DD 9500 series. They have gotten my full attention.

Yes they do rated +. I think soundsolutionsaudio.com sells Stetsom amps.

I remember when 36 hz wasn't "high tuning". Some subwoofers can be in a box tuned higher than the norm and still have good low end extension. Digital Designs, AQ, and others come to mind.

What do you mean ideas? Box design, bracing, structure, etc. You've got to be more specific. Hell what car you have, which subs, which amps, would be a start.

E-40 "Back in Business"

My setup is walled and I am experiencing the same thing that chill phil described. My roof support in the middle portion of the vehicle has snapped in the middle. Sounds like a hollow noise. When I push against the headliner(essentially pushing the brace back to its place) the noise goes away. I guess one layer of deadening wasn't enough. Looks like SecondSkin is getting another call.

The roof definitely does as well as the mirrors. I have an 01 explorer sport. My rearview mirror and thing that displays the temperature on the headliner didn't last too long.

Download Decaf's. If it's not low enough, use audacity to slow it down(easy to do).

You don't have to have anything. You'll have pretty severe voltage drop without a h/o alt. The battery can't charge itself. I'd get a nice alt to keep your battery and system happy.

Hdorre is right, but they can handle a good bit more.

Have you seen Gary Killian's(Crossfire Excursion)? He has a knob that can be turned to raise/lower the RPM's. Also, AudioFanaticz has one, too, I think. Maybe ask one of them.