Autruche

How to stop your back window from flexing as much... Buy another 18 and wall it. No more pressure hitting the back window then.

you can buy baskets from PSI, they are like $40 or so. Or maybe eBay, or look on CACO.

Should have put this in the Fi section. Pics of what you are describing would help a lot too.

A lot of people will claim that it is actually easier to bag a 4wd/awd vehicle because they are basically made with parts that are meant to be moved around a lot. There are quite a few benefits to doing so too. If you live in an area where it snows, of you live outside of the city limits you may need that awd to get through everything if you have to take your ride.

Alright, not as simple as I originally thought.

Interesting stuff. Always the simple things that solve the most complex problems.

Not as bad as seeing the fricken Monster logo stuck on everything...

^lulz. Most remote wire that comes with amp kits is 32-28 gauge wire. For the current (only mA) flowing through the average remote wire it will suffice. I usually use about 24-18 gauge for remote wire as it is more rugged and easier to work with. I usually just split a chunk of speaker wire for a single piece. This does remind me though, there was a guy that actually believed that running 12-8 gauge wire for his remote line made his amp louder...

vid is 10x better when muted.

When using audacity I've negatively amplified a song and used the 'leveler' effect on the light or medium setting and it seemed to help take some clipping/triangled waves and fix them. Not sure if it actually fixed them or if it just made it a little harder to see, but it seems to have worked a couple times for me.

Damn good info sir. Definitely taking notes.

Lowering the bass track's peak frequencies is primarily what I do for my custom songs. I simply make a duplicate of the track in audacity (select the track and hit ctrl+D) and get two tracks. Then I use HPF at about 120Hz/48dB slope on one track. Then I use LPF about 100Hz/48dB slope on the other. Then I select the whole bass track, check peak frequencies and lower the pitch of the bass track to get it to the desired frequencies using the 'change pitch' effect. After that it starts to get tricky. I mess around with the 'amplify' tool and get the two tracks to volumes that will merge together without causing distortion, but still leave it with a good mixture of bass and treble when I put them together using the 'mix and render' tool under the 'tracks' tab. Then I do a little bass boosting to get the most out of the track that I can. I constantly export the MP3 and check it with the oscope visualization in windows media player. I play the first rendered version, then if it's clean, bass boost a couple dBs. Check that new track, if clean, repeat. If not, undo bass boosting and try 1 dB boost at a time. The only problem with this method is the track can very easily lose sound quality.

I'd go with option 19. You just can't go wrong with that one.

Don't look at a bad situation as something that needs to be fixed, look at it as a chance to improve or upgrade it. Also, don't feel bad. I have over 1000RMS for my 24 speakers, but I don't even have a head unit, lol.

That'd be a pretty good setup. Or if you wanted 15s, maybe you could find a couple of used Sundown SA 15s.

Desired tuning?

Tell bitch that relationships are built on trust, and if she doesn't trust you, then the relationship won't work. Call a local Ford dealership and ask them about changing the code. Or you can just pop the door panel off and disconnect the harnesses that plug into the keypads.

god damnit last time i posted this same topic everyone ignored my questions and talked about my backgrounds!!!! How can I have "more port" and keep the same tuning? Increasing the area of your port means the port will have to be longer, simple as that. Port area determins how well the woofer will output and port length determines what the tuning will be, simple as that.

DC Power's PRO line is pretty affordable. Not exactly excellent idle output, but good top end output.

^^^^ FUCKING THIS.

oh, I see. Due to the high sensitivity of the driver, I think you'd still get excellent output from it, even though it is a higher impedance than normal car speakers. I doubt there would be much clarity to gain out of running an amp at 8 ohms per channel, vs 4 ohms though. I could be wrong though.

I like how the video description says 'Ultra Low' It peaks at 51Hz... No notes less than 44Hz at all...

Are they just regular speakers the you are going to use on a four channel? How many speakers, and what kind of setup are we talking?