Autruche

:facepalm: That is Audiosavings, just their ebay store...

Priceless. The only thing that would have been more awesome would be a police chase with the skyjack.

I only have one thing to say:

One part of the job of a crossover is to maintain a stable ohm load. For instance, I have O2 Audio Air 63s, and they are 3 way components. There are 3 speakers to a crossover, and all 3 speakers are 3.6 ohms each, but the final load on the crossover (what the amp sees) is still 3.6 ohms. When wiring multiple crossovers, they wire up just like speakers, 2 4 ohm crossovers wired in series are 8 ohm, 2 4 ohm crossovers wired in parallel are 2 ohms, so on and so forth. What RMS do you want to give each set of components? And how many sets will you have?

Those XLs love port area. If you do 2 4" round ports for each box it would be better. Or even just 1 6" round port per box. I would honestly just make one common chamber box with a large slot port and strap the AQs or just get an AQ 3500D.1 and be done with it, lees hassle with 1 amp.

Your port area is way too small. If you did a slot port, you should do about 16-20 square inches of port area per cubic foot. If you do round ports, like 14-18 square inches per cubic foot.

Definitely needs way more port.

Loving them amp specs, especially the fact that the bass boost only goes up to 9dB. I think it would be nice to lay the specs out in a chart style. Leaving it as lists works fine for the subs, but it kinda looks clustered in the amps section, I like the layout though.

haha, nice. I remember the first time I saw someone do that I was speechless.

Yeah, they are lead, super cheapy walmart lead ones. I don't really deal with top posts when it comes to batteries as I would rather convert the car to side post cuz they are much easier to work with.

I'm just a cheap-ass and get Walmart terminals and do this: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/tha_ostrich/Evans%20system/DSCN0181-1.jpg Is there a noticeable difference when you use high quality terminals? I've never used them before.

i seen this in your build log long ago i want more pics of it and more info on it if you dont mind how exactly did you attach it and how much trunk space did you gain - that actuator does it stick into trunk or is it flush with lid when closed? Let's see... I'll try to dig some info up on it, I did that almost 2 years ago... It's on my cardomain. Linky link to trunk info It's pretty ghetto, but it wouldn't be difficult to modify the design if you know what you're doing. As for space gain, the car had the big loop hinges with tension bars that limit your usable space, and after it was done you could use nearly the entire trunk. I never had any water issues with it, but if I did it again I would move the latching mechanism to the side instead of leaving it stock. Unfortunately I don't have any more pics of it. As for how the lift cylinder sat in there, I made the bracket for the trunk part to mount by where the weather stripping is, and the spot where it mounts on the lid was made to stick down an inch lower that the other one so that when the lid was closed, and the lift cylinder would be trying to push it self out, it would push the lid downward and help keep a good seal on the lid.

I did this to my grand am I had: Not exactly show car worthy, but it was an experiment that turned heads.

If you truly are concerned about airflow, then do a confetti test.

Please do, the Yosemite one is awesome, but something with a more human environment would be neat. I think I have seen part of the one you are talking about, but not the whole thing.

Nice. They sound like they'd be pretty damn nice in person. I wonder how far I'll be able to go away from my Saab when it's done...

You probably just made the biggest mistake of your life. JK. I doubt it will do rated, but probably still like 750@1ohm, so not too bad. I'd personally stay away from the HFI line for Hifonics though.

It has a Man Pedal

Wow, drunklexia really sucks. I kept reading the title as saying your alt was destroyed by snow, lol. I was like "How?" Then the thread really had me thrown off. Now that I sobered up it all makes sense. And, that's what she said.

To be honest, just put it where you think it looks good. You are over-thinking the design, and it really won't make a difference where you put it in that simple box.

It's probably just different box size and tuning you had noticed. However there is a difference with the port's efficiency. A non-flared slot port needs more area to allow air to flow properly, whereas round ports need slightly less, and aero ports are flared so port noise is virtually non-existent, and they require the smallest amount of area to work properly. Aero ports do have a disadvantage though, because of the flares on the ends, mounting them takes up more of the box's surface area than the port tube actually has, limiting the amount of ports you can put in. Plus the price of large aero ports is high and it's difficult to make your own flares. Slot ports are the easiest to make and deal with, which is why they are so common, especially for people who want to tune lower, as most people do for daily driving. When tuning low you a need longer port, and due to box dimensions that often means the port will need to turn a corner and is much easier to turn one large slot port smoothly than it is to turn 3 round or aero ports. Furthermore, most cars you see that are made to attack the meter and be daily drivers and use external aero ports use them because it is incredibly easy to change the tuning with aero ports in comparison to having to make a completely custom box to house an interchangeable slot port. You can have a better side of both worlds with a flared slot port, often referred to as a "kerf" port. The port itself will need less area than a non flared slot port, but has the same problem as the aero ports: the flared ends take up more surface area than there is port area, making it more difficult to make it fit on the outside of your box when you are dealing with limited space. I am unsure of the desired port area and how to calculate length on these types of ports though, as I have never personally dealt with them, I know fritosaregood has a bit of experience with them though. Well... I do believe I rambled on a little, haha, sorry.

It looks pretty sweet when you sand the paint off of the raised letters. Something like this: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/tha_ostrich/Quad4supercharger.jpg

Nice! I'm doing all red and black on my motor when I pull it out.

I can see where you're coming from, but to me it's not the build itself, it's the personality of the build. If it's something different or the guy switches things up then it's cool. I look for builds I can relate to. I wonder what you'd consider my finished build to be...

If you want a H/O alternator, but are strapped for cash, why not check out the for sale section? Look on here and on http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10 for a good used one.