dereileak

yea, most crossovers can add or remove up to 12db, not saying it wont clip though it turned up to much

hell yea, then you have all the pressure building on the cabin and not the trunk, will be very loud!!

so weird, I was gonna ask the same thing, ha ha

I would take it back to the dealer since they put it in, this isnt something you should have to deal with unless its an issue with your car, but to fix, there is nothing better then just measuring the wire that has the controls for the lights, stick a DDM on there, and test locks and everything else, and see when it goes to 12v and ground, that will tell you a lot, also the remote starts have settings too, afaik dei's only settings for headlights are constant/flashing while the remote start is running if you want to check yourself then PARKLIGHTS Pink At light switch harness or ETACM - The ETACM module is located in the center console behind the climate controls. that what it had for the 08, and PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) PINK (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or WHITE 20-Pin Plug, Pin 4 See NOTE *1 06' vehilce, note says to use relays EXTRA INFORMATION NOTE *1 the BCM (Body Control Module) is located under the CENTER CONSOLE, below the A/C CONTROLS. NOTE *2 the PARKING LIGHTS on this vehicle will require (2) 775 Relays to connect, See DIAGRAM NOTE *3 the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is located near the DRIVERS SIDE STRUT TOWER under the HOOD. The TACH wire is in Pin 86 on the 2.4L engine and on Connector 1, Pin 61 on the 3.3L engine. From the looks of it to do a remote start they recommened using the + parking lights which is Parking Lights BROWN/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS so that way there are no issues, most cars - is best because the positive line requires a lot of juice to run it, and the neg usually just activates a relay

yea, it sucks, ha ha, but at least they let you do almost every setting that way Also for the guy who made this thread, this link is where I bought mine, it was 199.99 when I bought it, which is unheard of, it went up a bit now to 254, but still a hell of a deal, its a python 592, which is exactly the same as a Viper 5902, just the different name, and a cooler body on the remote, but its a color screen, 1 mile range, no remembering settings, and has every wire for any car you could ever need, its pretty awesome, made by DEI, Link to Python 592 Its the best remote start/security that DEI makes, even one step up from steves 5901, just by the remote though, he could buy one of these remotes and have it like this too, as the brain is the same on the 5902/592 and the 5901, anyways enough of my ramblings, oh another thing, I would find a shop before you go buy anything, some shops wont do manuals, and some wont do it unless you buy from them or they will charge you rack rediculous rates, just letting you know, your best option is self install, but if you have never done one before then its up to you, you have to start somewhere, my first one was on my minivan in the middle of winter, outside in the snow, with cardboard over the window so I didnt get snow in my face or in the car, lmao

we had an installer come back from his work one day (he did home theater installs) and parks the huge ass van in our bay, well he slipped on the brake while we opened the doors, and fucked those doors up something like no tomorrow, even though he barely bumped them

what are the key words in that sentence? IF installed right. If i listed all the things ive seen that can go wrong with a remote start it could take a while Car stays running after removing the key keeps cranking after start all kinds of stuff. yea, has to be done correctly, and each car is different, especially those new dodge vehicles, your basically telling the car that you want it to start, and the computer starts the car, I have done a few, they are very weird, but cool, old style cars are simple, you can use virtual tach, but I prefer using a real tach wire, that way is someone jumps in the car while its running and they know they can't steal it, they cant damage the engine, if you use virtual tach you could lay a brick on the foot pedal, and say goodbye to engine, but mine wont let you rev over 3000rpm, it shuts the engine off, overall remote starts are not bad and not that difficult to understand, its when you get in the vehicle to do it, and thats when unexpected shit comes up, or you cant find wires, because they are so far back and surrounded by 50 other wires that its a pain in the ass, some cars like chevy trucks are easy as fuck though I have installed around 50 remotestarts/securty, so I know a decent amount, most of them needed a bypass to.

Sorry to thread jack, but I bought one this summer, and I dont think I sent the warrenty card in, am I screwed? mine works fine, just in case though you know

a remote start wont try to even start if its in gear, it will not start the process

I have one in mine, the neutral safety wire hooks up, and basically if it sees the car in gear it wont start, I have my viper 5902 set to auto transmission so I don't have to do this damn special procedure of getting out specially to set up remote start, just leave it out of gear, if its in gear it wont start, and will tell me it failed

And do they come fully charged or empty fully charged, its bad to have a battery sit uncharged, will kill it

i never really liked anything but the xs charger, last time I used one it started charging my battery at 16+ volts, which is bad, so I stopped it right away, the xs one is spot on everytime, I guess I cant say I hate them all though, but wont risk it

Alright thanks. Do you know why my kinetik froze up like a block of ice? Also, is it ok to hook up an xs power 12v bat in parallel to my stock front battery? Thx in parallel you can, just make sure you fuse each battery withing 1 ft of the 12v line I heard that you need two of the exact same batteries or you'll end up undercharging or overcharging one of them. Might be wrong though... thats not true, as a battery fills up it will not take any more amperage in, the other battereis will then take them in, eventually the alt will not have to output much current to charge as they will both fully charge, so you can hook any batteries together and be fine, now this is only if they are the same type, perferably the same brand, due to different technogies and different charging voltages for the different types of technolgies (ex: AGM vs Lead-acid)

having your amp wrapped up in a blanket sitting on top of your rear car battery is a good way to kill your amp I learned

I love the look of a lot of wires going to the batteries, I have mine like that, I think I have about 8 positive wires, 2 1/0 gauge, and 6 4 guage, and like the same for neg One option is to build bus bars, which are just copper bars that go on your terminals, and then you have more places to connect stuff These pics show how mine is, love it like this!!

Alright thanks. Do you know why my kinetik froze up like a block of ice? Also, is it ok to hook up an xs power 12v bat in parallel to my stock front battery? Thx in parallel you can, just make sure you fuse each battery withing 1 ft of the 12v line

the cat has close to 250xxx miles, so it could def be an issue. Put a new timing belt and head on it about 5k ago, tested the egr and cleaned the carbon out of the lines. I know its running rich afaik the cat will not cause mileage drop, unless it is clogged, if its not then you just are not following emissions requirements

when the voltage drops to 13.2 does that really count as that amperage output? as that is a reduced voltage, therefore losing wattage, because lets say you have 280 amps * 14.4 v = 4032 watts of energy, now if you do 330 amps * 13.2 = 4224, you may be doing a bit more, but the voltage is going to cause the amps to be less efficient, I do suppose that it would normally be hooked up to a fairly large battery bank to help this, just saying, maybe we should be measuring alts in the max wattage they can put out, and then at what readings those wattages were at, just sayin

free with directTV EDIT**** I guess when you sign up for your first time

start with a 12v system, 12v and up take a lot of work, and a step down module, which you would have to redo a lot of your car with, overall just do 12v

go buy from there website, they are the only sellers, and anyone on here would charge you the same cost with shipping cause they dont want to lose money

yea, you can do that in a civilian one also, with a snorkel, but you will ruin the interior, the military vehicles are designed to be parked underwater for keeping them hidden, as long as they do not pass the snorkel, your good

knu is the best, have purchased probably around $400 from them in the last year

my friend just ordered 2 sets of them from ddm, and got to him in exactly 1 week, they are quick as hell now, good deal, I run them, with proper projectors, look so badass, and really help with lighting up the road

If your gonna do this, get a vehicle made for it, like the Humvee, my most favorite vehicle ever, will be buying one someday and will be putting a huge ass system in it someday