Slawsen

One of the signs said "I Heart Photoshop", if I recall correctly. If not, thats awesome.

All it takes is 1 copper strand reaching from positive or negative over to the remote. Tape off the exposed wire towards the amps...make sure nothing is touching bro

Apparently mixing agm and wet cells is bad. Which is why you just replace the wet cell up front with an agm battery before you just "add one to the back".

Then the 2 hc's in the back will be fine.

1 batt in the back as long as you had 1 up front would be perfectly fine... Then again as i'm sure you know you can't really have too much power..

So how much did you pay for it? Sexy as FFFF

What meter are you using? and the car runs with the battery at 7.5 volts lol?

Uh dead battery....... Maybe it had died often in the past and was hanging on for dear life, all it needed was to be drained once more.

What "hits hard" varies from vehicle, box, and equipment.....so lol.

Yeah I wanna order some too, but halloween horror nights or 1/0? lol

I think you have other problems...110a alt and an extra battery should be FINE for that amp lol.. Sounds good

Subs lol...take a crappy speaker and hook it up to an amp that will fry it. Once it smokes you'll have something to compare the smell t o.

Well when a cop goes to search your vehicle and gets the piss electrocuted out of him, enjoy your lawsuit?

LMAO...this reminds me, the other day I got called into a room to set up a projector because "it won't work". They had the monitor run to the projector via VGA, and the laptop which they wanted to run the presentation on, connected to the desktop which normally used the monitor. I actually laughed on the spot...

#1 You can use a drill to make a hole through the platters and all the data around the hole can still be recovered. #2 not exactly sure how freezing and thawing out a magnetic item will demagnetize it... #3 as for the magnet..you need to open up the HDD in order for that to even be a possibility. ^^thats all if he's worried about data recovery. If its just for dell to see that its fucked, then open it and take the r/w head and scrape it across the platter and close it up lol.

You just basically answered your own question with that all caps post. You will need to thread the holes...when you say the bolts are stripped people tend to think you mean they're stuck in their holes and the heads are stripped. So how about you give more information and be more specific the next time you fucking post.

Check the jumper settings on the cd drive and placement of the ribbon.(if IDE). Try booting w/o drive plugged in?

2 minutes after you posted the red is some stuff...most of it i didnt highlight but already fixed

I just finally got around to sealing up the sub...the cutout wasn't spot on so now the sub is sealed and not leaking air at all. Broken in decent and on some of the lower notes it seems like my hatch and back doors are going to fly off I'll go somewhere secluded after school tomorrow and make another vid. Sucks living in the old people part of town

Thanks for the advice...guess I forgot to talk to you before i built it lmao. Was just excited and couldn't wait to hear the damn thing:] gets low as hell though..woofer hardly moves at 30hz

I need to clamp it and i'm getting 1/0 soon, but its a brutus 2k being run at 1 0hm

Power > cone my .02

I may do another vid some some of psyphs shit like "fo life" "doin my thang" ...those fuckin slam . The sub takes the power like a champ, i'm really impressed Rusty. Guess i'll only buy dc subs from now on Edit: kinda off-topic, but are the radioshack 8O$ clamp meters accurate? I may pick one up soon

Yeah my windshield actually flexes on the lower notes, but I turned the power down because the woofer was getting a bit warm haha..takes the power like a champ though.

Yeah those kicker components are really loud for the price lol..and the clarity of the lv4 is nice..sounds good for having barely no deadener too!