VOPA

if it is a new amp... it may be the amp

Everybody talking shit..... bahhhh.... whatever. I like the car

there might be a little gremlin type creature crumpling up some bubble wrap in your speaker just to annoy you

looks sweet

So, can we attribute the performance difference to the difference in MMS?

My friend has one... pm me if interested

Don't tune these too low, or they will have no highs becuase the motor is weak. I would stick to 36-40Hz. I am waiting for many to argue. Compararitively, I have had DD3500s, Havocs, Sundown Z's, BTL, and the SSD in an 18 and have built a few boxes....

4" voice coil subs should help you keep a narrow focus

i usually run 10's in 2.5-3ft^3 each ported. it wangs.... By wangs, you ,must mean it has low impact, narrow bandwidth, and leans heavily to the lows. That is huge for a 10

My 5901 never lasts a month and the 5902 have always went down faster from my experience, but then again, I haven't done a lot of 5902s. Truthfully, damn a 200 dollar fob, becuase most get broken and that is a lot for a fob if you have to buy one.

Theres a lot of difference.. such as a regular wet wet lead acid battery will leak if used on its side vs an AGM battery like XS Power, BatCap, or Kinetik which can all be installed anyway the room is available. A regular wet cell lead acid battery should not be used in a trunk of a car or interior of the vehicle ANYWHERE because they discharge Toxic Deadly gasses. A regular wet cell lead acid battery will bever have a high aH rating, or Discharge rating, nor could it ever have a instant 3000+ Short Circuit amp rating. Thought those 3 things are a PRETTY BIG DIFFERENCE for a battery that some claim to be the SAME.

Just abouT the best sq sub you can put in there that can still pound a bit and play deep is the Memphis MCP M claass. The MCP is the upgraded form of the M-CLASS and definately a candidate.

What year? You are in for a treat if it is a newer dodge.

Oh yeah, 15" model. Thanks or the mounting depth info! 8.66" plus boot... not too shabby. I have the funniest port and I knew i was going to be on the edge. I am going to allow for 9" of mag. After the next set of ferrites, it is neo time!

Definately not making your amps hit harder. I always remembered that a headunit is never supposed to run more than 1 amp on the remote circuit and that was the rule of thumb

Hey, come on now... Fellow forum member needs information to finish his enclosure....

You will be lucky to get 1000w rms out of each those amps. Relays? To turn them on? liked a remote wire?

I cant tell you how many rednecks I argued with who would keep using the width measurement to tell me how tall their tires were. I bust out the calculator and school them on calculating tire size. They knew the common sizes were about a 31" or a 33", but when big rims or extra wide tires, they were way wrong on diameter and couldn't figure out why. I won a little money off a hard headed buddy who thought he knew it all.

I concur with more Power 2500 per sub!

Sound Deadener

I need some Magnet diameters and mounting depths on the current Z, the new Z and the Nighshade. I am building this box for Z v.3's, but I am going to use something else in the meantime. I have a crazy port with some possible clearancing issues so lets hear the info

When you strap an amp, it is letting one amp do the positive side of the AC wave form and the other amp do the negative. Think of your speaker goingn out (+) and your speaker going in (-) So then you have each amp doing its either +/- 40 volts max output and then the other doing to complement +/- 40 volts. Each amp tied to each others negative terminals gives its 0 volt reference point and essentially completes the circuit. You cannot tie more than one amp doing positive or negative only becuase you cannot sychronize the output and the output voltages would end up "fighting" each other leaving major power dissipation in the amps internals or in other words, , it doesnt work.

I thought the original plan was to use the High Temp USA made copper coils? Other than pure power handling, what are the other reasons are you changing to 8 layer coils? How much increased power handling are you predicting?

Proximity will almost always be add on. Most any alarm that can accept a proximity sensor will also have keyless entry. You dont have to hook it up if you dont want to. If your car doesnt have power door locks, you can add them with a little time and 15 dollars or less worth of supplies. The rest of the features are standard. There are definately cheaper units out there, but I like Avital because they are still good quality and you use the DEI radar sensor with them. Radar sensors can be very finnicky. The avatal 3100 is about a 50 dollar unit. The 508D radar/ proximity sensor can be had for less than 40 dollars. You can buy a simple alarm for like 25 bucks, but it will more than likely cause headaches and the radar feature may not work out very well for you.

Most are designed to be. Your Caddy will be easy enough, but her car needs a resistance based key bypass. Also simple. You want a quality stand alone unit, then look at the avital 4113l. You may want an all in one for your car though. Not too much more to hook up. Avital is made by the same company that makes viper, python, clifford, hornet, autostart, and xpresskit.