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zxsonnyxz

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Everything posted by zxsonnyxz

  1. Do you have a normal circular saw with depth adjustment? You don't need a table saw to kerf.
  2. Yes it will, its not about gaining resting voltage but preventing drop when you have a heavy load.
  3. whats wrong with 2x2? Mostly the sqare edges, not the best for airflow right in front of the port.
  4. First look up Ohms Law, then go to the general audio forum and look at the pinned "Snafu" posts.
  5. I'm interested in how this turns out! Understanding people with so little integrity, and no respect for others is WAY beyond me..
  6. Looks really nice! I'm curious to how well that box works out though? I remember a rule of thumb saying the port should look like a port in the enclosure, not a continuation of it. And your box looks more like a t-line, but if it's for the better or worse i don't know
  7. No the amp won't have problems as LEDs draw so little current, but as they are made for 12-14V and not the voltages you get out of your amp they'll blow. And you're correct on the other stuff. The voltage is irrelevant, its the resistance that matters. Ahh hell forget it. i'm not posting in this thread anymore. listen to zxsonyyz and screw your amp up if you want to. I forgot that it was up to 300 of them, depending of how they're wired they might actually be a notisable load. About the voltage, It was consernig why the LEDs started to smoke (or blew completely?). I still think it would be hard to kill the amp before the LEDs themselves. But to sum up for yankee: don't put them on your amp! Regardless of the amp being "capable".
  8. No the amp won't have problems as LEDs draw so little current, but as they are made for 12-14V and not the voltages you get out of your amp they'll blow. And you're correct on the other stuff.
  9. You mentioned prosessors. Those should be able to cut pretty steep. The Mosconi DSP I want suposedly does up to 60db/okt.
  10. I'm working on redoing the 8" mids in my doors right now. So not pure woofers but same idea, only a little weaker construction is needed. I put some mdf boards in the door to get away from the glass then made a mould with tape: After the first layer og glassing had set i ripped it off and removed the underlaying boards. Then I just put it back and started adapting it further to the door. I keep the window down all the time so I make sure it wont be restricted: When I'm done reinforcing I'll attach an mdf baffle, then move on to adapt my door panels. My doors had no speakers in them originally.
  11. Shock towers, seatbelt bolts or seperate ground wire(s). Sand to metal and upgrade wires up front. Thats what I think.
  12. Or just take them out, and do it the way you think it should be done. If you think it's a pita, deal with it
  13. Aren't those ment for the "lower" freqs? in a first order 6db/octave crossover, yes. it's used as the low pass filter. but second order 12/db octave crossovers are fairly common in ht systems too. they use a capacitor and inductor for every crossover point. then there's the least common 3rd order 18db/octave 4th order 24db/octave basically the higher the order you get, the sharper the frequency rolls off after the crossover point. I just realised I missread your post, i read "Did you use iron core inductors for your crossover?" And yes, but iirc the core inductors are less suitable for the higher frequencies, rather than a "normal" one. So for the x-over frequencies of a normal tweeter like that, say around 3k, a regular coreless inductor would be best suited. Or maybe he took it a step further and used inductors wound up with copper foil, those are suposed to be really good. This is just how it's in my brain, so correct me if I'm wrong so i can get myself sorted out. And edit: Sorry for messing up your thread. Are you going to try countersinking that tweeter? It's probably not the easiest thing to do but it would be nice!
  14. Aren't those ment for the "lower" freqs?
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