smgreen20

Double din conversion is pretty simple for these. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra and put in an Eclipse AVN6620. More time consuming then anything, ~5 hrs.

How have I managed to miss this one??? LANZAR LXR200, kinda miss it.

The old saying goes, "There's no replacement for displacement"

I never said you didn't know how to test the voltage, just left it open as a possibility. Also if you'd look at my signature, you'd see that I state "Clarion Collector". Even though, I still try my hardest to give an unbiased opinion. I will be the first to state whether they do or don't do rated, whether an amp, HU or ?? Just like the older Bluish LANZAR Opti series amps, they don't do much more then rated like everyone thinks they do. I love those amps and will till the day I die, hell I even own 2 of them, but the simple fact is, I set the record straight that they don't do much more then rated. I would do the same for Clarion. Might be because I feel that strongly about those brands/lines. So yes, I am a Clarion nut hugger/fanboy. You have a problem with that?

A few bad ones and you're ready to look elsewhere. Remember, people will let you know w/o thought what they think when something doesn't do what it states. People don't get on to tell you , Hay, this worked just as described, this is great!!!!! Doesn't happen. I know you asked, so there for you got some replies. The Clarion HU's are still top notch. Their HU's do their rated power. I'm not saying that the one poster didn't know how to test for the voltage output, but every review I've read they DO or surpass their rated output. I've had 3 Clarion HU's myself, and my next one to replace my Eclipse AVN6620 will be the Clarion NX501. My first ever HU was the Clarion 6770, sold to get the DRX9175L, stolen so I bought the DRX9375r. The only issue I've ever had w/any of these is the 9375 started to act up accepting CD's, after 6 yrs of service and non-stop playing. I also have: 5632CD 5780 7770 ADCS-1 DRX7475 DRX8275 DRX9375r DRX9575Rz DRX9675 HX-D10 DXZ615 Except for the 5632CD, all work perfectly. The 5632CD works, but the display has faded and the #2 preset button fell off. Chances are, the unit you get will have 0 issues for years to come. Just like cars, some are lemons while its sibling isn't.

I love TREO. Their subs are some of the best. I run their SSi line. The SSX's arew far from entry line, the TSi, RSX, TSX would be their low/entry line. The comp sets aren't bad by any means, but they're not the greatest either. If you chose to go with their comps, get the SSX comps.

If I have to ever replace my Eclipse AVN6620, that's the Clarion I'll be getting. No it's not active capable. Our local Best Buy has one on display. They're not even sure why they've got it. They only got the one and don't know if they're going to carry Clarion or not.

BTW, shouldn't this also be in the HU section and not the speaker section. It was after all, the HU you changed, not the speakers.

I believe that the 920BT has 4v as well. I used to have one. More then likely the pico fuse inside the HU blew. Pioneers of that run had a major issue with that. I was lucky with mine. I didn't have that problem. If at that point you have whine, a line driver will only worsen the case.

Just don't use rears and the 360 would be fine, other then that, what I use.... The AC DQS, or the DQXS. That would allow you to try active front end/no rears, or passive front and rear, due to the xover on each of the DQXS's outputs.

I don't have any on my doors. I built sealed enclosures for my mids and that in itself (for the mids I use- Silver Flutes)was the best thing I ever did. My rear side door and some of the roof panel sections are what I hear rattle. I do have deadner planned, just not yet. I had a 3 way front end and switched a lot of things out. Went from the PG RSD6.5c set as the midbass/tweet and the PG RSD3 for the midrange and it sounded really good. I got tired of the look of having a 3" mid in my A-pillars and went back to a 2 way set up. This 2 way set up is the best I've ever had. For once my bass sounds as if it's coming from up front. This could also contribute to the fact that with the PG mids they were free-air'in in the door and the current mids are now in a sealed enclosure, so that in itself is a big change. The tweets I use are the PG Elite's in the A-pillar, Silver Flute 6 1/2"s in the doors. Chs A&B run the tweets, Chs C&D run the mids and the Sub Ch runs my 2 TREO 12.22 SSi's. Now on to the subs, I have mine in a ported box, tuned to 36Hz and after a bit of EQing, it's the tightest, best sounding setup I've ever heard. They can get loud as hell when called upon, just get over that 140 dB mark, but I'm set up/tuned for SQ. I run the factory rears off off my HU, I can't hear them at all, and that's the way I like it, but it's only for the kids for when I play DVD's on the way to G-ma's house (2 hrs away).

There's nothing wrong with your choice of speakers. A lot of people will be envious of what you listed. Nothing wrong with using the LRx5.1k too. For SQ, I'd ditch the rears unless you're after a "live" sound, like from a concert where reverb would be needed. If you so choose to keep the rears, run the fronts to the amps chs 3 & 4 and the rears off of the amps chs 1 & 2. It's not a true class A amp on the front two chs, just A biased. You could also ditch the rears, as I would and suggested, and run the fronts actively as I do. Tweets to the class A biased chs and the mids to the class A/B chs. Oh, yea, I too run the Audison LRx5.1k One note to mention about the amp, due to it's processing, you'll want to use the amps built-in xover. I can't remember fully, but when the xover is off on the sub ch, it's a bit dull and lifeless, turn it on and it'll knock your socks off.

Wow! Over inflating the prices a bit I see. The Clarion APA4200 retailed for around $600-700 in '95 when it was released. The highest priced Clarion amp made was the APA4300HX around $900. My wife is currently in bed or I'd go get the MSRP sheets from my closet. Those are the ##'s off the top of my head to the best of my recollection.

The Phoenix Gold MPH6300 and the M??10,000 which a friend of mine has the ONLY ones made of each. So there's a possibility that some day I still could own one. Also the MPS2250 w/fan shroud. I HAD, back in '96, the Earthquake PA-4300, would love to have one again.

Headroom is in relation to the amp/s, not the speakers. The speakers will reach their mechanical limits at which point, we all know will start to do harm to them. Due to the speakers limitations, it might "cap" the headroom you could get. I don't know if I said that in a way in which one could understand.

$500 for those!!! Son, one name, DYNAUDIO! If you're patient and look around, you can find a set of Dynaudio System 220's on ebay for that price, even the System 240's. I paid $400 for the set I had (240's) a few years back. Should've looked at Morel too.

Replace RF subs with TREO, And in the amps section replace RF with Phoenix Gold and add Audison and Zpaco, McIntosh at least. Speakers: Morel, Dynaudio, Hertz, CDT, PG Elite, Focal, Image Dynamics... What about HU's? Clarion, Eclipse, Alpine... Wire: Stinger, Phoenix Gold

Raise up that rear bench seat 2" and get a bit more room for those 10"s to play in. That's what I did. www.carstereo.com/smgreen20 "No Limits"

It's an AWD truck, unless you he took out the front drive shaft, under stock power that truck doesn't have the umph to do a burn out. It does look like that though. I was this "-" close to buying an 04 Sierra Denali, but the dealer wouldn't go 1500 lower so no sale. 1 month later it was 500 lower then what I offered, but I had just found a truck weeks prior. A great place for Denali owners> www.denalitrucks.com