audiofanaticz

looks much better. no you dont got wires running all over and end up having a chance of snagging or shorting them out.

x2 only downfall of it is that they dont really look purdy

I personally wouldnt worry about the turn on flicker, or the dimming until warm. Thats standard with ANY H.I.D. setup, no matter the manufacture, price, aftermarket, or stock/oem. Any light with a ballast is going to have the warm up time (some faster then others) Including industrial lights in factories, parking lot lights, etc. But it is known for the cheaper hid kits to take a dump rather quickly. Id also mount your ballasts someplace hidden. Dunno if audio+ is a shop you work for or just something you and your friends thought would be cool with the driveway installs you do. But as constructive critisizem (sp) it looks ghetto fab. The way I look at it is, "If a paying customer wouldnt be satisfied with it, you shouldnt be either".

I say.... just let these guys claim big numbers.. This way when they talk all their trash, and show up at a comp, and lose to someone that is actually loud, that guy can punk them out and put them in their place.

nice sub James!

thats a nice shirt!! I want one!

nice.

put the video on youtube or something that will allow you to stream the video not download it. I dont trust downloading things from sites Ive never heard about.

Another thing that just ran across my mind is to make sure your able to supply the hid ballasts with enough current. Sometimes when going from a oem bulb to a hid setup the stock headlight wires that run from your headlight switch inside the car uses like a 16 gauge wire. You may not be able to carry enough current throw the wire to properly power the ballast which in return will allow for the bulbs to not be their brightest. I wouldnt worry about voltage, since the ballasts can usally handle anywhere from 10 volts too 16 volts and do their rated light output, but if the current is not there, your lights wont be working properly. This isnt on all vehicles however, only some. Easy fix to that is wire in some relays. Find out which wire goes to the switch (ie the positive headlight wire) scotch lock off of that (or cut and splice) and then run that to the relay. Of coarse your going to have to ground out the relay and run a constant power wire for the relay from the battery. You would proboly need 2 relays. 1 relay for both low beams, and 1 relay for both high beams.

Im assuming in the sable you have a dual bulb (1 bulb for high beam and low beam). Id suggust making sure that you connect the high beam plug to the high beam input and vice versa. Your problem is proboly something really easy and simple like that. Otherthing is that you are using oem halogen bulb headlight assemblies. You may have to re adjust the headlamp assemblies since the hid bulbs project the light totally different then a halogen bulb. Also, make sure your bulbs are fully inserted into the headlight socket, you may have a bulb in some what crooked and that is causing the problem.

Car is sold!! Please lock, delete topic. thanks Brian

bump! the cars motor and rims are worth my asking price alone, and Im willing to wheel and deal! need this gone for stereo money for the hoe! more pixs http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=11032

If you grounded the speakerwires against the case, one must assume the amp was turned on. So one would wonder why would you do something so stupid as to disconnect your speakers when the amp is on and leave live wires dangling around.. Tis a shame you would think people would have more common sense.

Think I forgot to add that the stock chrome cadillac wheels also are included, for winter wheels or whatever you do with them.

Aight. After getting my tahoe, I have no need for this anymore. I am selling my 1993 cadillac seville sts. It has a 32valve v8 northstar highoutput motor in it. Almost 175,000 miles. Pearl white in color, tan interior. Clear title, no leans!! Car was never in a major accident, but I did crunh into a snowbank last winter in my buddies drive way $1500 OBO!!! I bluebooked the car at KBB.com with 200,000 miles, it was well over $2000 in the fair condition. It can be turned back to stock if you wanted to do so, but it take some work and a sawzall. I have the rear seats still, along with a spare set of rear door panels. There are fiberglass door pods on the front doors for 6.5 components. I am leaving the Diamond Hex components in there, but they need new tweets. a 4channel pyrmid amp is also included. LOL Car does not come with my iraggi alternator, it will be returned to stock since Im selling the car CHEAP! The car has no radio installed, but the comps in the front door are there along with the american bass coaxles in the B pillers, that could use to be replaced since the tweeters failed. There is also no dash spacer for it. Gave it to my buddy for his car. The hid's are also not included, those are in my tahoe, I will put the 80watt low beam blue bulbs back in. Recent new parts are: New driver & passenger side axles (not remanufactures)!! New axle shaft seals (they go in the tranny where the axel goes). New gas tank and fuel lines leading from the tank to the filter (since I screwed thru the old one). LOL Tranny filter was changed under 1000 miles ago. New outter tie rod ends. New ball joints. The car needs: Front struts, they are disconnected because they faulted out. Rear struts still hold air even with a massive stereo system a/c pump, it has a bad clutch i believe and grinds a tad bit. driver side window regulator. The car comes with the 20" by 9" onyx (i think) rims. Tires size is 255/35/20, they are dunlop tires. tires are about 2 years old. The tires do not rub except when you turn to the left or right all the way, and I believe this is due to the bumper. Brakes: 4 wheel disc brakes Baer cross drilled and slotted rotors (all the way around). Bendix ceramic pads, just put on last summer ( no brake dust what so ever) Stock calipers The brakes stop the car excellently, and no vibrations when applying brakes no matter how hard you lock them up. The body is in decent condition, no big dents, some small dings. No major rust, but a little paint bubble around the power antenna and the front of the moon roof. Alarm: Car has a factory security system. I have a Viper 791xv 2way pager alarm w/ remote start and keyless entry (only one remote, have another lcd remote but the lcd screen is slighly cracked. Besides the shock sensor on the alarm it has a glass brake sensor ( you can literitly drop a dime on the glass and it will set the alarm off, no need to flick or throw it on the glass) Also has a tilt sensor, if someone jacks the car up far enough, or if it gets towed, the sensor will notice a different angle then what it remermed when armed. The wall is not being took out by me. the car will break 150 db's with ruffly 4400wrms and 2 18s. all 4 doors are sound deadened, as well as the trunk, and underneath what use to be the rear seat. Id really like to sell it to a stereo enthusiest! The buyer is responsible for pickup of the car. I will not deliver, but depending on your location I may drive a bit towards you. I WILL ONLY EXCEPT CASH NO MONEY ORDERS, PERSONAL CHECKS, OR CASHIER CHECKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cant think of anything else off the top of my head. Any questions please ask Here are a few pics from today. More pics in my build thread in my signature. Here is the kbb quote, Id rate the car around fair.

I was waiting for this!!

big tymers - #1 stunner

The roush kit is the better kit.. The duraflex kit reminds me of something you would buy at autozone.

my batteries got a lil wet in my trunk, stickers where tore up a bit and started to bubble.. I emailed powermaster last week Friday I think, and got a respones. Anyways This shows up at my door. Scottie J, your the fucking man!!! Thanks again!! Great customer service and great batteries!!!

I dunno... But I been running my d3100s for almost 2 years, floating my voltage to them around 15.9-16.2 volts before my car would wig out.. Then I kept them on a constant trickle charge whenever my car was parked at home... Needless to say my redtop burned up, which I noticed when I took the d3100s out of the caddy for my hoe. My batts are still strong as hell and work perfect and rest at 13.8+ volts. Edit: I do want to say Ive remembered lots of people running their Kinetiks at 15 volts (nothing too high) and they burned out.. So I guess we know who the inferior battery company is...

Well I tell you what This thread had over 200 hits already, and this is only the 13th reply. And only 88 signitures, which is pretty sad since this is being posted on audiophile sites. And if it does go thru and these companies that take advanatage of novice buyers, its not going to do nothing. Instead of seeing your 1200 watt PEAK Sony Xplod 4 channel amp at wal-mart, you will see a 30 wrms by 4 amp on the shelf for the same price. These novice buyers are going to look at it and say wow thats a waste of money and not buy it, costing that audio company money. Now thru the companies eyes if they do this, there going to let those novice customers see how bad their products really are and are going to see a decline in sales. Decline in sales = decline in profits, and in this econemy what company in the right mind would want to lose more money and go under.. Its a petition, it could have 999 billion signitures more then needed, does that mean the companies have to do it? No because its not a ruler nor a law. Did these crap audio brand companies go out and say "if you get this many signituares we will rate our products with rms and not peak"? No. Its a waste of time, and even a bigger waste responding.. /end thread.

Nice, way better then that kenwood pullout..

that I know, but I just put it out for lamer terms. Like I said you would of been a perfect example, but I didnt want to bring it up just in case. Your buying your hf2500.1s as a 3200wrms amp, and so far both you tested have exceeded that rating, but you are only marketing it, making it availble to the people as a 2500wrms amp, and selling it as more bang for your buck, because people will know or research that they will all do the 3200watts rms and then some extra.

Also true, but I didnt want to drop a new company in the pot. Last time I did that I a manufacture took it the wrong way. Lol

Its stupid.... And its never gonna happen, why should corperate big shots listen to the buyers and lose money... Either way your not going to buy that amp that is rated in peak power made by sony, jensen, pyle, pyrmid, boss, dual, etc ( if its rated by peak, or rms power). Ever hear of let the buyer beware? Should I let you guys know a little secret??? There is something that is almost idenical to this "petition".... Its called CEA 2006 compliant. These power ratings are made to be done at the amps rated stable ohm load, and at 14.4 volts. These amps sold with this compliance are going to do rated power, the company is letting you know that this amp is going to work by these specs and do the power it claims. So CEA ratings are something from 2006 that many manufactures complied with, while the cheaper made brands have not. If these cheap brands didnt comply with these standards when many sucsessful comanies did, why are they going to listen to a bunch of internet people that wont buy their crap products either way??? Like I said pointless!!! There is a marketing reason to the more rms rating, or saying the amp is underrate and actually does XXX watts more. Rockford is a major comapany to do this, but their are other major brands that do this. The company gets a new amp design that they use, the amps build house builds these boards as whatever. Lets use a RF t40001bd. Almost every 40001bd is 4700-5000rms. Rockfords buildhouse could be building this amp as a 4700wrms amp and be selling it to Rockford as a 4700wrms amp. Then rockford does what they want with it and then sell it to you as a 4000wrms amp. You the buyer think your getting a better deal because its more power for less money. Go around many different reviews of amps, soon you will see that the more popular brand is doing this. Sundown, Rockford, Hifonics(xx-xxv lines), Kicker. Mainly your top level companies. Thank you sir!!!!