audiofanaticz

The amp should get warm after extended use, but should not be hot, where you cant touch it. Turn your gail down! Gain is not a volume knob its meant to match your decks preout voltage to the amp, so you get full power out of the amp without clipping. Im glad to see that your said no bass boost, bass boost is not needed at all! and only causes clipping, a little bassboost at low volumes is fine, but at max volumes its not needed. Bass boost is pretty much like the LOUD settings on a deck, you only hear a difference at low volumes and there is no difference at max volumes. There is nothing wrong with a 2 volt line output. If he is running a few sub amps it maybe a problem. But with one amp the 2 volt pre out is just fine!! The gain knob on Hifonics amps is for 0.2 volts to 9 volts. Is the 2 volt setting between those 2 numbers eric? yes it is. So there for you can properly set your gain to 2 volts. Now if your deck had a line output of .1 volt, yes get a new deck. Using a deck with 2 volt, 4 volt, 5 volt, 8 volt pre amp outputs will be fine with the amp. If your gain is set properly no matter what voltage pre amp out puts you have (2 volt in this case) your amp will work just the same as a higher ouput voltage (4 volt or 8 volt like a Eclipse headunit). The amp WILL NOT be more efficent with a 4 or 8 volt pre amp out put, nor will the amp run cooler with a higher voltage out put. Ill agree with the other users that presented REAL advice about turning your subwoofer output up, and resetting your gain knob with a dmm (digital multimeter). Your gain should ruffly be set about 3/4 the way up, maybe a little less if your headunit has 2 volt pre outs, and around half way if you have 4 volt. Since the Hifonics amps run a gain knob that starts at the 9 volts and turns down to 0.2 volts. Where as other amps start at the 0.2 volts and turns up to 9 volts. With this being done, you should eliminate clipping and max volumes, and your amp should run a tad bit cooler too. Cheers.

$4500 without the screen intel p2 128mb of sd ram I stopped watching I was really waiting for them to start talking about the 28.8k dial up modem. This video must be very very very old. At first I thought it was a sleeper in a full tower atx server case, but once i heard the p2, 128mb ram i lolled and closed it.

That makes sense, im sitting here looking at the pictures, then had to go back and read. I was a bit confused when the title says " new shop open" but didnt see any showroom or anything else but some signs on the door and winow.. good luck with your new shop, be sure to post up more pics when you get the ball rolling some more!

This works, but I find to use scotch locks are much easier to use, and less time consuming and offer a tight connection that wont untwist of come lose. Plus you wont have to electrical tape the wires up after words. Youll be cutting at least 15+ minutes off your installation time. Line output converters are a breeze to wire up. Most line output coverters have 5 wires, and 2 rca jack outputs, which go from the converter to the aftermarket amp. 2 wires are for the left channel, 2 wires are for the right channel, and the single black wire is a ground. There is usally 2 white wires and 2 gray wires. The wires with the black strip down them are negative speaker wires, while the solid color wire is the speaker positive wire. The white set of wires get wired up to the left (driver side) speaker, the gray wires get wired up to the right (passenger side) speaker. If using the scotchlok's to connect the wires, it should take you around 10-15 minutes tops install time for a first timer, otherwise around 30 minutes if you have to strip the rubber insulation off the speaker wires, then wire it up, then tape it. There maybe 2 gain style looking knobs on the converter, these are just that, gains. Id first have them turned all the way down upon first install/use and slowly turn them up while you have your radio at your normal max listening level. once you hear any sort of distortion turn the knobs back a hair. One knob is for the left channel, and the other for the right channel. Also a side not: If you are running a aftermarket headunit, Id really suggest getting a better quality line output converter. The ones sold at walmart are fine for stock radios because they dont have very strong built in amplifiers, but an aftermarket cd player puts out 20watts rms up to 60 watts peak depending on the unit. Most these line output converters have a rms and peak wattage rating. Ive seen cheap ones fail before from having to much power being pushed through the unit. You can find better quality units for the same price if not cheaper at a local audio shop or online if you can wait for shipping. I know Pac and Peripheral are 2 better brand units, they are the mostly used intergration kits by audio shops, I do find Peripheral to be a bit better quality then Pac, but both will walk all over a Schoshe product any day! Here is a 10-30 watt Pac converter $13 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5264_PAC+SNI-15.html Here is a 2-40 watt Pac converter $13 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5265_PAC+SNI-35.html Here is a 2-80 watt pac converter, it has 2 more additional wires (12v constant, remote, ground. It wires up like an amp) $20 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5285_PAC+TRUNK-LOC.html# Hopefully that will send you in the right direction a little bit more then sending you off to google. Cheers!

good song, but where the fuck is wisCANsin.. stupid people that cant even spell or pronounce a state even half way close, but yet they make millions....

2 ports sounds like too much for a single sub in a 2.10 cubed box. but thats just meh.

let me know where you guys live... Maybe i can jack enough stuff to pay for my new window, and the missing items from my garage... I got hit twice in the last week in a half, and have spent well over $400 on my alarm and that didnt stop these people, so I sure know something meant for hearing ga ga goo goo on isnt going to stop me!

there is no theft deterrent in a baby monitor, theres nothing that flashes to let the people know the vehicle is armed or protected. the baby alarm is not to loud, if your sleeping you may not hear it and the car still may get broken into. Even with a real alarm people may still be dumb fucks and try to break in. I wouldnt trust my car being protected by a baby monitor nor would many people here I think.

no, pvc will not be a areo port. pvc will just be a round port. Unless you flair the ends, but whats to say you will get a proper flare on both ends, and if you dont it may cause turbulence or port noise. and areo ports can be tuned and tuned again if you got spare sleeves. very easy for swapping out ports.

x7 x2 :D

I never heard it, sounds ok, but almost like a distress call to all rappers. offtopic, but are those handles on your wall the same ones you find in handicap bathroom stahls? You got yourself some real o'shit handles :hairtrick:

here are some pictures from my upstairs porch of my yard. Forgot that I got no one living up there so I could go up there for ariel shots. This is right behind my house Part of my backyard, garage and the other fence between my house and my garage with the gate. Here is my garage, driveway, and my neighbors fence and how his is set up. You can see the tree that is growing between my garage and my neighbors fence, it is block the back half of his fence, but it connects to his garage.

I feel ya on that. Oh yea, Im down! we can each pick a tree! Lol If only my fat ass can climb a tree Behind my garage to the left is my fenced in yard, and its also fenced in between my house and my garage, and my garage and neighbors fenced. Here is this awesome overhead view of my lot. I know you wish you got my MS Paint skillz!! Things ARE NOT drawn to scale in any way, but youll get the idea, I hope. As you can see, everything around my house is fenced in. Behind my garage is the neighbors yard on the otherside of the block. The back side of my garage is my property line The brown you see is all fencing. Between my house and my garage there is also a fence but it has a gate, it looks from the outside (facing the driveway with padlock), my whole yard needed to be fenced in to follow city code for my old swimming pool that was back there, theres only 2 ways into it, through the garage, or through the gate, both are locked.. The gap between my garage and my neighbors fence has a gate in the front, and has a standard 6' tall fence in the rear, but cant be seen because its all overgrown with weeds and little trees ( I got posion ivy from going back there last summer). My neighbors fence on the right of me is also a 6 foot tall fence, his yard is completly fenced in like mine, the only way into his yard is through his house. And legally his fence is 16 inches on my property according to a my surveyer and his. The best way to access my drive way is through the front, I mean sure you could jump fences, but either way, you got 2 fences too jump either way you go if you follow meh. And you need a lot of upper body strength to pull yourself over a wooden fence, since all the 2x4s are on the fenced in part of the yards so its not easy to climb unlike a chain link. Any ways.... I took the radio shack advice and I went there. I found this driveway monitor for $79 bucks plus tax. It says on the box that it reads up to 30 feet. Inside the directions it says range up to 25 feet. My driveway is about 27 feet wide and thats a bit extra. I tested the unit indoors, and outdoors. The max range I could get out of it was 15 feet!!!!! It had 2 swithces on it, 1 switch for sensitivity (high/low) and 1 switch for range (5-15', 15-25'). I tried all combitnations of the switches and could not get no more then 15 feet. I had a 25 foot fatmax tape measure I used for testing the distances. The guy at radio shack said the units worked flawless and they never had a complaint, and wanted to exchange for another unit, but Id have to wait for them to get another instock. I told them I just wanted to return it. Then he tried giving me instore credit. I told him again I want my money refunded on my credit card, or I will contact the BBB for poor customer service, and selling items that are not what they claim to be (since the box says 30 foot range, and the instructions say 25' Here is a link to the unit I tried. FAIL!!!!!! http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family even on the site it claims 30 feet!!!!! but from my tests, 15 feet max!!!

That dont say how far the motion sensor picks up. From my house to my neighbors house is about 26 feet. So I need a motion sensor that will pick up 30 feet to be on the safe side so I know there is no uncovered ground. Below in the picture is what Im wanting to guard with the motion sensor, so Im aware of people being in my drive way before they get to my car. The 2 arrows pointing up are ideas of camera locations. Ill have the one on the garage pointing out towards my house/the street, and the camera on my house pointing towards my neighbors house to the right and the street. So they will criss cross paths and will be able to see both sides of my car, and out of reach. Im gonna head to the shack and see what they got, I know a guy that works there, maybe if they got something I can get a employee discount if I have him buy it, then I pay him. :0 Like I said, still open for suggustions, links etc. Thanks everyone for the help so far, its much appricated!! SMD FTW

yup that is what i was thinking This is where i got the idea, the door charms. Thanks for the link I gotta go out and measure my driveway width quick. nah, I got all wooden fences around me, besides it wouldnt be the easiest carrying heavy ass subs climbing over a fence, but who knows. People are dumb enough to try and break into a vehicle with 2 bright blinking leds.

I got a big dust to dawn light in my drive way, lights the whole thing up all the way into the streeet. Bill, check my thread in the security center, Im looking to spend a bit more then those hf cameras. Something I can record I just dont get it, are people that stupid to see a blinking blue light in each a piller and still try to break in... The lights are not for looks esh... The alarm did its job, and a window is much cheaper then replacing all my gear thats for sure.

I looked at that package some more.. Seems decent, but wont do what I want it to do. It seems that I misunderstood the dome camera, It is only a wall or stand upright model, ceiling mounting must give you an upside down image. While the software allows pan, tilt, and zoom features the dome camera does not, you need to drop a few hundred on a p/t/z camera. Not to mention the dome camera is indoor use only. Tho that dome camera seems to have motion detection which is its only plus. The 2 matching cameras that come with that unit are outdoor, but they lack IR features, so they would be no good in limited to dark situations. So now that is 3 out of 4 cameras that would be useless to me in the most part... The 4th camera seems to do what I would want it to do minus the motion detection, which is not needed but a plus. So I priced out buying just the pci card w/ software and there is a 2 camera bundle, but when you buy the 2 pack for $100, you only get 30 foot cables. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...p;Sku=Q300-2360 Or you can buy 2 single cameras and get a 60 foot cable with both but then your looking at $120http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1538008&Sku=Q300-2184 So its 20$ more then the 2 pack, but longer cables, and would be cheaper then buying cable extenstions at $20 a piece. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...&CatId=1926 But they have these other cameras that have a 60 foot cable and night vision up to 60 feet for $70 each. So I think If I buy 2 of those for $140 and have the longer cables and longer viewing distance I will be a head instead of buying the other 2 pack for $100 and having to spend an additional $40 on cables. So It looks like it will be 2 of these http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...p;Sku=Q300-2370 and then the card and software http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...p;Sku=Q300-2108 About $210 which comes in $40 cheaper then the one 4 camera kit, and I will have 2 better cameras then what comes in the kit. But Im still open to suggustions, I need to get paid before I order and get a damn car window fixed!

That looks like a do able kit lance! It runs off a pc, so Id assume theres some sort of softwear used to record, also i see its motion sensored too. I quite dont need that many cameras tho, I think that dome is indoor and that wont do any good really, unless I put it in my garage. Id still like something that will alert me audible when someone comes in my driveway. I checked harbor freight, and besides 3 different types of dummy cameras, they only have one real camera which costs almost the same as the fake ones. I dont think that will be any intreast to me.

I thought it was bill that had all them crazy hitech expensive cameras.. Thanks for the advice guys, my ears are still open. This is something I know nothing about

I need something cheap. After my garage being broke into last week, and now my car Its time to step up my game stronger.. One thing I want is some sort of audible sensor that if the beam gets broke it will alert me inside my house. My yard is fully fenced in around my back, and so are my neighbors, so theres only one way to get to my car and thats my driveway (unless your feeling strong and want to lift heavy subs over a fence) lol. So I figure if I get a sensor going across my driveway I will be alerted before anyone makes it to my car, I got a decently long driveway. Then I know I want 2 cameras for sure. I guess since ill be on a budget Ill need to sacerfice for black and white. I know Ive seen those little outdoor globes that move by either your control, or they track movement, that be nice, but out of budget. So I figured maybe one camera under my overhang in the rear of my house out of site pointed where my car parks, and maybe one in my garage attic window pointing over the top of my car into the street. I got a spare tv I can hook the cameras up to, and I also got a spare lcd monitor and a server I could hook the camera system up to. Do I need any type of switching unit for the cameras? Someone said something about harbor frieght or something like that, but I dont got none around my area that I know off.

heh, I wish I could trust my other sub enough to put power on it. Id love to burp my car right now full tilt and watch the window anyways I dropped one car off, and brought out my old lac. Now my car is safe til monday in a brick garage with only a overhead garage door (and a regular door but you can only access it from inside). $205 to get the window repaired, already got my appointment setup, they gonna have fun with all the sound deadener on the door....

Viper ftw! Im glad I know my glass sensor works great! I was awake, I didnt hear nothing against the window, just heard the alarm. First it was my garage, now my car.. Security camera on the way trust me! Its just more money then i got right now. pics... You can see how my front window looks darker from the shattered glass. video.

I guess they people that broke into my garage whernt happy, now i got a broken window. nothing missing yet.

Maybe your alignment like said, mostly the only way to tell is get the tire fixed and go back on the road and see if your car pulls at all. If your car pulls you may have messed up the alignment, maybe a bent tie rod, or control arm. But I think youll be ok, unless your driving like a metro or something smaller and built a bit cheaper.

your duck stickers must be imitations, mine added close to 8 dbz and a :hairtrick: