audiofanaticz

Correct, thats why I stick with unregulated powersupplies like my spl, and american bass 1 ohm @ 16.5 volts = 4500wrms.. now if you drop that puppy down into .5 ohms wow 5000+ watts

You hear that kids! drugs are bad! dont do them!

http://www.atcweb.com/price.htm $289 http://www.elexp.com/tst_m440.htm $269 I think that is the same scope meade uses also hey may know a better/cheaper place to buy one.

well on a amp with a 4 volt input and your giving it 10 volts, if the amp cant handle that much of input voltage you could end up frying the amp, or just some parts. I think this maybe of what happened to zaxfires amp because his amp still works, but he does not get the soft turn on/off and makes a big thump. Most line drivers are adjustable for how many volts you send out of the line driver to your amp. So unless your line driver is maxed out on the dial it wont be sending out the 10 volts. If your amp is working fine now, it may not last. But hey, Im no pro. I just research as much as possible so I dont mess up my gear. IMO a line driver will help you fry your gear quicker because you maybe clipping your gear just the slightest and not even notice it. Over time you will fry one thing or another. However some amps can take a high input voltage like the hifonics xxv coloussus which takes up to 9 volts. My buddy had one of our friends hook up his stereo in his car, it consisted of a clarion touchscreen hu, two dd 3515s dvc 4ohms, and a audiobahn hct2300 amp (2400wrms it claims). Even at low volumes the red led kept flashing on the bass knob. It illumantes red when the amp is clipping, otherwise it should be blue. Well what my friends tried telling me was it was meant to blink red to the beat, I even showed them in the manual for the amp, but they said that both I and audiobahns manual was wrong. Well I turned down the fully maxed out gain and bass boost a few times, but somehow those 2 things always ended up maxed out over and over, I gave up on it. The amp took a crap about 2 months ago, it still plays and you can kinda hear the subs, but there is no volume to the amp at all no matter how the settings are on the amp. What do you think happened to the amp? I think that the constant clipping caught up to them. As for the 3in/3 out 10 volt line drivers. depending on which ones Im not sure. But Let me answer your question with another question. Why do they still make capaciters when we all know they hurt your current flow more then they help? Answer: To make money. Lets use the AudioControl Matrix line driver. 6 channel 10 volt line driver. http://www.carsound.com/reviews/processors/matrix.html So maybe that will explain why the make multichannel high volted line drivers. As I said before, for running multipable amp setups without having to use RCA Y adapters which cut down the signal voltage drasticly everytime you add in another Y splice. When I bought my car it came with a somewhat decent audio system. It also had a AudioControl Overdrive line driver. When I put my stereo in the car I tried out the overdrive line driver. I had my car tuned with a oscope and then metered with the line driver, and then disconnected the line driver, retuned the amp again and then metered again. During the tests I played a solid 50hz bass line and volume 28 on my alpine. Never changed any settings on my deck for either test not even the volume. Now the mic was a audiocontrol ftl which hasnt been calibrated in I dont know how long and was a easy 15+db's over, but it gave me an idea on weather or not to use the line driver. The results are below: Line driver not being used. I also tryed using a 1.0 fared rockford cap that came with the car to stabalize the voltage to my 4 channel amp which was also a big let down.

The only way your amp is going to work harder is if your amp gain is set to high and you are clipping, you can clip your amp with high or even low preamp output voltages. Otherwise your amp will work just as hard as it did with the higher voltage preamp outputs. Thats why the best way to tune your amp is using a O-scope, because you can visually see your amp when it is clipping on a screen, but a dmm is the next best thing. Some people say they can tun their amp by sound, this maybe somewhat true but in all honestly you wont hear your amp clipping unless it is clipping alot and very bad. But the o-scope will allow you to tune your amp(s) to their max limit without any clipping. If your amp is designed to push say 3000watts rms at 1 ohm, it shouldnt get hotter then the normal temps that it normally plays at if everything is set correct. When your amps are getting so hot that you cant touch them and you are running them at the correct ohm that the amp is stable at you are more then likely clipping the shit out of your amp, which makes it hot, and the heat is making the amp less efficient, drawing more amps, and giving you less wattage. In the image below, the yellow line indicates the max power your amp can produce without clipping. When you clip your amp you get the white square looking line. Using a oscope you will be able to see these lines and set your amp properly and not just turning the gain til you think its loud(er)

Im not really sure on that, would like to find out. But this is why Im so anti-line driver. Why spend the extra cash on a line driver to boost your signal up so high to run your amp at a lower gain setting that WILL NOT make your amp more effiecent, last longer, or be "louder". Only time a line driver was ever useless was back in the old school audio when you ran multiple amps off of "rca Y splitters" which cuts down your preamp voltage drasticlly everytime you splice another amp in off of the one rca cord. So if you where running multiple non strappable,master/slave,or amps without rca pass throughts (such as a rca input and rca output), or you have a very old or cheap headunit, such as jensen for example is when you would benefit from a line driver. But then you still have to look at it as would you rather spend money on just a line driver, or would you rather spend a little more money and buy a eq or a crossover that will not only boost your preamp voltage, but will give you better audible control over your stereo to make it better. Your gain is not a volume, it is to be used to match it to your preamp output voltage. Thus if every amp ran a standerd volt preamp output (lets use 4 for example) then any and every headunit you buy would be 4 volt, and there would be ZERO need for a gain on your amp unless you just wanted to be that guy and clip your shit And if you use this site http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/setgain.asp to properly set your gain with a dmm you should have no problom with clipping. Weather you have 2 volt preamp outputs or 6 volt preamp out puts your gain will be set correctly. Example your amp is 3000 watts rms at 1 ohm. you type those two numbers in and click on "figure target voltage". It then says that my target voltage is 54.8 volts. With the digital multimeter hooked up to your amp, you start to turn your gain up until you see 54.8 pop up on your multimeter display. Now if your deck has 2 volt preamp outputs, your gain will be turned up farther then it would be if you had 6 volt preamps. Again your amp will not be clipping or working harder then needed be. Maybe the reason your soft turn on does not work no more on your amp if it received too high of a input voltage. Your best bet would be to call up american bass and ask them the max input voltage the amp can take, although Bob (if I remember right) is somewhat hard to understand.

as in input voltage through the rca's? 200mV - 6V I think its the same as yours, if they are capabil of recieving more, Im not sure. I thought I heard 9volt someplace but dont really remember.

ok, I got to agree with all of that accept for the part where it goes like "this = happier more efficient amps = happier me". How is the amp working more efficient? Your amp is still putting out the same power while having the gain turned down more becuase your new HU has higher volt preamp outputs. If you have your gain set correctly with a o-scope, or even a dmm, your amp will work just as hard as it did before to make its wattage with either a higher gain setting for low volted preamps, or a lower gain setting for higher preamps. All a headunit does with higher volt preamp outputs does is make it so you dont have to crank your gain up high. BUT turning your gain up high WILL NOT hurt your amps if your headunit does have low volted preamp outs like pioneer does AS LONG AS YOU SET YOUR GAINS CORRECTLY. I have a funny feeling that this is why Pioneer does not stress the high volted preamp outputs because it dont pay to stick extra money into something that does not matter.

I think its called "take a lick" which is like the only other good song he had.

LOL. nah. Im just a awp whore in Css. Im hard on my right click button becuase I snap it so quick, and them buttons just wore out I guess. I dont know.. But I use the wtf junk pic for my spray in css. LOL Im Oced at 3ghz with a sandy 3700+ 2.2 gig stock on air Zalmann 120mm cpu cooler ftmfw edit: I also dont pub, cal m ftw... but havent fragged in a while since Ive been working alot! :mad:

Why would you want one?? They are Junk... They where cool at first, but after I had 3 of them spaz out on me and stop working. I went to a razer trauntrla keyboard, and a copperhead mouse.. My first g15, was a 1st gen. All the paint on the keys wore off. Sent it to logitech, waited 2 weeks, got a new keyboard. My 2nd keyboard the lcd stopped working, and the back lights didnt work after 3.5 months or so. Said screw waiting for a RMA, bought my 3rd one, lasted 2 months or so, and then most the keys didnt work, and the keys that did work didnt work correctly. Say if you pushed "L" somehow the letter "D" would end up on the screen and other crazy crap like that. Ive seen the G15 keyboards at bestbuy on sunday for $60 bucks. A big mark down from what they use to be for the last 2 years... I admit I loved the damn keyboard. You can make your own applications for it, and there where also a few different sites that made some too. There where programs you could use to make the lights flash to the music if you used winamp. Works with ventrilo and says who is talking. Says your computers temps, and OC speeds, Bandwidth monitor. There where so many cool things about it, and I almost bought my 4th one when I was at bestbuy and seen them for 60, but I said its just pissing away 60 bucks and kept walking. Now for the logitech mice.... I broke so many!!! Its not even funny. On all my logitech Mice I broke the right clicks. I broke 2 mx512s broke the right clicks on both. I broke 1 the right click on the mx518. And I also broke the right click on the Laser G5. Ive had my razer gear for a little over a year so far. Never had a problem yet. I love my 24k gold plated usb ports on my keyboard, I love how light weight my copperhead mouse is, and I like that it came with spare mice feet incase the ones wear out and start to stick or not glide as smooth. Plus you cant mess with the mouse options theres so many things you can change to get your mouse just right. But nice rig Moh, besides the logi gear

nice vid

Dont know about molten steel, but I have access to huge furnaces that are 1500+ degrees full of molten aluminum

Nice! IMO tho they are starting to look like a wannabe dd

Higher priced is not always better for one. example you can go to the store and buy a rockford fosgate 4000bd for $1800, or you can order it from online for $1100, is the $1800 amp better? No its not. For two, Why buy a usb card when its not needed? If you go with a good brand name you will get a good product 9 times out of 10, and you wont have to move your usb wireless card around, not to mention its taking up use of a usb port, and the extra clutter on the desk. And if you do or are using a laptop, Id suggust a card like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16833150006 and if you wanted to save yourself some money you could get the same type of card but from a cheaper company that is called linkskey (now if that company is not trying to steal the linksys name....) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16833117204 And I will bet my caddy that that cheap linkskey card will get crap as signal strength... D-link is also another repitabul company along with linksys and net gear. So it should work fine, since they all run the same signals. But I will say that I have bought a wireless card for my old laptop too, and I forget the brand name but I think it was blitz or belkin (something with a , but it was 25 bucks at walmart it was some off brand that was on clearence and I had 1 bar signal strength with the laptop being next to the router. All im saying is dont buy cheap crap when you can get something better quality for just a few bucks more... It like buying some cheap power acoustik amp that puts out 2000wrms or you can go and buy a hifonics amp that actully puts out its rated 2000wrms for only a 100 bucks more.

oh my bad. thought the first pic was your truck. It still may just be a body kit. the blue truck and the top red truck both have the same style bumper, so those might just be some beauty panels to blend the bumper in. You would almost have to go and luck at the inside of your bed from underneath and see if there are any bolts holding them on. Im pretty sure its the same bed in both pics. If the pointy styles aint some kind of body kit or beauty panel, chances are you may have to cut yours off with a tourch or plasma cutter and goto a salvage yard and weld in new ones. I think Big P may know more on the subject, Im sure he will see the post and give you some more advice.

If you want it to look like the black truck, it has just a simple roll pan. The roll pan will follow the contour of the side cab corners as you say. The black truck and your truck have the same cab corners. In order to install the roll pan you have to remove your factory bumper and the roll pan will tuck up in there nice and purdy. The blue truck well, that is a kit to say the least. It looks like it includes the side skirts, front air damn, the spoiler, and the sharper looking cab corners. That body kit looks like it is used with the factory bumper and the cab corners that come with the body kit blend the bumper in so it has a smoother look. I see you are starting on a project mini truck with the recessed license plate. If your wanting just the roll pan, you can probolly find many different styles for under a few hundred bucks that should need no modding. and since you got the plate in the gate and have it all shaved id go for a roll pan with no license plate holder. When I was wanting to do a old s10 I was looking at a zr-1 roll pan I think. It relocates your taillights into the roll pan and they look kind of like the taillights from a corvette, but they also make the vette light kit for your tail gate too. Buy your self a minitrucking magazine and they have all sorts of parts adds for them trucks cheap Good luck with your build and hopefully i shined some light on the subject edit opps my bad, i though i seen a shaved tail gate handle.

you dont got anything to be worried about if you didnt download the files or whatever. So he gots your ip addy, congratz? LoL. Most likely there isnt much he can do with it if you are running some sort of firewall (ie nvidia firewall, windows firewall, zonealarm, or maybe even some antivirus firewall). Also if you are running a router it will make it even harder for him to access your pc. Like other people said, just run a clean sweap on your system to be safe, do a root scan, spywear scan, and then a virus scan you should be fine tho.

Id also go for a wireless pci card if you have a tower and not a laptop. It is true that you can move the usb wireless network card around, but if she has a linksys router, and you buy a linksys card you shouldnt have a problom with a pci card at all. All I run is linksys in my home just because it blows away most the other competitors wireless brands. But netgear is also decent too, but try to keep matching brand names for the best signal strength. When I still had my laptop I took it half way around my block before I lost signal strength, I had more 3 times more range then a 500mhz cordless phone at the time and that was with 802.11B wireless. If her router is a 802.11G, deff spend the extra couple bucks and get a G wireless card for faster bandwidth between the router and wireless card.

thank you amatt.... But me Im done with this thread... I guess I got no experience with such high quality sound equipment like soundstream.......

no shit my box is like that now subs up port back and the guy who built the box has been building for over 15 years but when he built it i told it was for everyday music not burbs " Pardon my french, but he is a dumb ass if he has 15 years expeirence and cant even build a proper box..... You said it is a spl box, spl box = burps 99% of the time, now its for everyday music, which one is it, it really cant be both unless you are running removable ports like meade (one tuned for daily driving and one for burping). Everyone that posted said your ports are too small, you still seem to disbelieve that. you do not have enough port area, getting your box ported right will make it so much louder and it will sound like a newer most powerful system. Right now your Im betting your box is almost playing like a sealed box because the air cannot move freely enough. Yes sub up port back going to be the loudest which I said, and also which you have, but your ports are messing with your whole stereo over all. With the box being properly ported I bet you will be close to 148db if not louder. Now who in their right mind wouldnt want to make their stereo louder? and the best part is, all you need to do is build a proper box which is cheap to do most the time. But you want a wall no, and honestly if this same guy build your wall, Im sure it wont be any louder because he cant even properly port a box... You said your box is about 9 cubes, right? Well my new box that I am building next weekend hopefully is going to be about 5 after sub/port displacement. I am running FOUR 4 inch arrow ports that will be 15 inchs long to get the correct port volume. You should be almost double that in theory, and you aint even close to 1/4 that with this current box. People are trying to help you out, and you keep saying that this box is built to the specs of the speakers when everyone with any sense can cearly tell its not just by looking at the picture of the ports.

LoL at that hcca!! Im laughing so hard right now On the box I seen the hccas can be ran ported in a small encloser... Them subs are just a scam, they got all the mad looking beefiness to them, but their performs is worse then a 8 inch sony... Props with your new hookup you are getting tho

You cans top saying that becasue the person(s) who built that box dont know what they are talking about... Subs up, port back is the loudest box set up you can have in a suv/hatchback vehicle without doing a wall. SPL = sound pressure levels. SPL enclosers are designed to get loud, mostly at one note, spl ports are a lot bigger then normal everyday ports and are tuned a lot higher. It looks like you are lucky to have 30 sqaure inches of port there, where as a spl encloser port will have 120+ square inches. Those ports are too small, what happens with too small of ports? All the air cannot escape from the box fastly or efficently enough. Your box will be sounding and playing like it is a sealed box. Sealed boxes are quiet compaired to a ported box. Not to mention that a correctly built ported encloser will gain you at least 3-4 db's. And you "maybe" be correct about the box being bult to specs as far as size, and tuning, but I will put money down that you do not have the correct port size. You can build ports 4 times the size that you have now, and still have the box tuned at the same frequency, but this falls back on the person(s) doing the building, if they think that its a "spl" box now, they are not going to know how to maximize the box for the best performance or build a new one for that matter.. Listen to people on this site when they try to help you, king suv has what twelve 12s in his excursion and has rebuilt his box 3+ times that I know of. I think he would have good advice and soulitions to give...

Im sorry but I got the same opinion as bibby so I gotta agree with him... If you absoultly love your car, and freak out over something so minor as you say, you would of stock that money back into your baby and keep it looking fresh. If its barley see it then why did you want cash? If you would of gotten the money from her/your insurance company and then spent it on something else instead of repairing your car it would be considered fraud, and you could get in a lil bit of trouble.

This mexican girl I know always played this song lean like a chulo or something like that... i guess now I know what a chulo is.. Jp burrito Looks like you had a good time.. nice pics as well