audiofanaticz

looks like he reuploaded the pic, after i go through all the work to upload the pic of the pic... ha

Seen a pic posted on facebook, went to click "like" and it said you can not like the picture because it was removed.. So I took a picture of a picture... Anyone got any more info on these?? lol

It says every attendee gets a free gift!! so pretend to be me, and get my free gift!!

I bought a DD-1 one time, and filmed the box opening, than i stopped the camera and took out the screws and started the camera and claimed it had no screws.. #truestory

I heard some of the prices first hand for the parts and they are expensive. BIG BIG checks to cover orders or parts alone. Not including the ruff $10,000+ per patent per device... Now remember that this isnt being made overseas, the boards are all produced here, assembled here in AZ. Each unit made is vigorously tested here by 1 of 2 sometimes 3 people.

if you have an iphone or a android you can use those too. just be sure to use the ipod connector or the usb, and not the headphone output of the phone.

possibly the dd-1+ cd was sent out by mistake? you can download the tracks here http://www.damoreengineering.com/dd1.html then just burn them to a disc.

already fixed it thats why lol

I called dibs on that for the isF and the hoe already so get in line!

The 15 amp rating is for its charging output in DC Current which is to charge your batteries. The 10amp fuse in the charger by the power plug input is to fuse the charger itself in case an issue arises. That fuse is fusing the 110volt AC input. If you have to use an extension cord use one that is able to at least pass 10 amps of AC current, if your extension cord is for 13amps it should be fine. I believe they are referring to not using the cheaper indoor 3/6/9 foot cords that are made out of sometimes 18-20gauge wire and can not handle the current. Like these cords, which would be bad Now if you where using a nice robust cord that is using 12-16 gauge wire inside it would be fine (depending on length of coarse). These cords are normally rated right on the package saying the gauge size and max amperage allowed. So you should have no issue with a cord like this Hope that clears it up for you!

Hey I see your riding in my parking lot at my future shop with all the broken windows. LOL

but but but if you wire the amp at 1 ohm, that means it plays at 1 ohm and you get all that claimed power at 1 ohm.... there is no such thing as impedance errr box rise because they used ratchet straps to hold the box down........ which makes me wonder. if square woofers put out square waves, does that mean rectangular amplifiers put out rectangular waves? is the only way to get round unclipped waves to use a round woofer and round amplifiers? mind = blown

fap fap fap

Id say check with Skar before going another route, im not much of a fan of their parts (psi), and they are going to be a bit more pricey than a direct replacement from the company. Plus if you have 2 woofers and only 1 needs the recone you would than have to get 2 from the other company so they match which will cost more.

Last I heard from a member here getting a Skar recone, it came in a box full of parts, he had to assemble it himself and hope he got the coil height and spider heights spaced properly and have strong glue joints. Im not sure if they learned how to build them yet in house, because they where having another manufacture building recones for a while. This was a while ago so this could of changed by now, Im not sure.

cool deal

Did you try using the negative probe on the negative amplifier speaker output. iirc the crescendo amplifiers use Tiffany style inputs, which are not grounded and may make it a differential rca input. There is no physical connection between the negative rca signal on the amp and the actual ground and that may have something to do with the signal not being transferred through the ground when the cc-1 is grounded on the battery itself. So try it using both the positive cc-1 probe on the positive speaker output of the amp, and the negative cc-1 probe on the negative speaker output of the amp and then you should hopefully get a signal. I remember someone else having an issue with a 4channel or 2 channel crescendo I thought and they couldn't get signal on the dd-1 with their amp 1 way but the other way worked.

Trade in thread is here where he says what to do towards the end of the first post -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/182181-officially-introducing-the-new-dd-1-distortion-detector-plus-pics-video/

I mean if you only used your current dd-1 once on your system, I wouldn't feel it being a good investment for the dd-1+ since your not getting much use out of the current model you own. Now if you where installing or doing lots of installs it could be a legit tool on hand especially for warranty issues on customers adjusting their amps after you tuned them, the dd-1+ is GREAT for that. I love my dd-1+ and rarely if at all touch my dd-1, but like i said if you don't use it much I couldn't justify it when there are many more great tools. Now maybe you could sell your old dd-1 to a friend to help fund the new one or something as well, just an idea. But I would put your money into something like a CC-1 to get your crossovers on your amps dialed in, especially if your running a 4 channel or active and Id feel you get more use from that than a dd-1+. Just my opinion tho.

The picture of the center console with all that brown stuff.. Must of been the zebras cornholio!

subwooofer

All thats left is find some scrap wire laying around for speaker wire, hopefully I have enough! Top panel cut Marking lines for the mids and tweets Speaker holes cut Top panel glued and nailed on Keeping things square really makes those seams look nice Rounded over most the exterior edges Transmission hump routered out Had to notch out the top tweeter holes a little due to the angle on the top Also had to do a little itty bit on the bottom tweeter holes Finally time to test fit the speakers I guess it looks alright and should work for now

Here is where it gets fun, and you may learn something about cutting odd angled side pieces like these on a table saw This is the angle i need to cut at 16.4 degrees, I need 2 of these for the sides, sure you could free hand them with the table saw and hopefully dont get any kickback or use a jigsaw or circular saw but how smooth the cut ends up could vary significantly So first up I had to duplicate the same angle on my other side piece Notice the gap in between the wood pieces and the saw fence, no way to use a fence for a straight cut like that unless..... Grab yourself some double sided tape, Im using 3M because its readily available at a store, but you can order much cheaper and thinner template tape as well Pealed off the top of the tape and stuck one side piece to a square piece of scrap wood (it must be a straight piece of scrap) I lined up my drawn on line with the edge of the wood Next I stuck the second side piece on to the scrap piece of wood What this will do is give me a straight edge to ride along the fence to cut the angles nice straight and true Now both side pieces are cut at the same time Pry the cut panels off the scrap wood and of coarse check to make sure both are cut evenly from side to side Now its time to start assembling the side pieces to the bottom that I already assembled Now I can go and attach the front angled piece I always spread my glue evenly with my finger after applying it to the wood this way I dont have to rely on pressure to spread it 100% Turn the enclosure over and now its time to do the back panel Now all sides and bottom are assembled I will use a flush trim router bit to cut out the middle hump on both sides of the panel once the glue has dried which I didnt feel like doing last night Just cutting out the speaker holes and putting the top panel on