audiofanaticz

I was in chat for not even 5 minutes, and every time you said something it was always followed by "I will pray for you". I think you said it a good 30 times in that 5 minutes. Very annoying, and other chat members where getting sick of reading it along with the admin. So keep crying! :01nocomment8so:

If your looking for a sponser, goto your local audio shop and become friends with them. Let them know your interested to help out around the shop for anything they need. Tell them you want to learn whatever you can and you would even support their shop via a sticker/decal of the shop. Theres very few sponsorships given out now days, the select few that are sponsored worked their ass of to get it, and actually competed for a very very long time, and take 1-5th place finishes in the US/WORLD settings. These people are known through out the audio industry by not only other audio enthusiast but companies. Audio companies now days dont want to sponsor people because they have been taken advantage off by other competitors back in the day by giving said competitor free products with the only rule is to use it all. But they dont and they end up selling what they dont want or need off, never using the product what so ever and not supporting their sponsor. I myself am not sponsored and could care less to be. However I think Im pretty well heard online (lol) and speak the truth about the products Ive ran, and rep the hell out of those products. Ive gotten many GREAT deals by companies when I never even asked for them, and thats the way it should be!! Not you asking them for "discounts".

i likey!

Hell no! Anything below 30hz will be very hard on the woofer. You should adjust your Sub Sonic Filter ruffly 5hz below box tuning. If you want to play 20hz tune low. My box is peaking at 31-32 hz (peaking meaning my loudest db number on a termlab at said freq). My box is tuned to around 27ish. My woofers tend to struggle a little bit around 22hz.

There is no such thing! Its all user preference and what the user wants to accomplish. 37ish hz is a well around number, in a good box with good drivers. You will still hit the low notes, and most the highs as well as have a pretty flat response in a correctly built box.

Why would you buy FI, when you just got done saying in chat that MA Audio Competition woofers are the best subs? Better then DD, T3, DC, FI, AA? LOL

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoid=44270091 :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so:

you got balls to trade for a w7, and a 10inch to top it off.... WOW!

haha!

2 or 3 wet (lead acid) batteries that are 600 cranking amps? Lol Not to mention when those batteries all go dead from bumping your stereo and your trying to charge half dead batteries with a lower amperage stock alt that is not meant to do so you can watch the smoke roll out from under your hood.

Id personally go with a new alt, and big 3 upgrade under the hood in 1/0 wiring. Also 1/0 power wire front to back if you dont already have. Your more then likely going to need a decent size AGM battery in the rear such as an XS Power battery with a high output alternator. Here are 2 alts from DC Power that will fit your vehicle. There alts are super strong and do well over their rated amperage. From what I was told they dyno each alt before they ship it to the customer and if it dont pass their rated amperage output they dont ship and rebuild it. Great Customer service & support!! Ill never buy from another alt company I dont think. Dont even waste your money with optima batteries (redtop, bluetop, yellowtop). 240amp dc power for your vehicle. $469 http://www.dcpowerinc.com/alternators/niss...-titan-240.html 275amp dc power for your vehicle. $509 http://www.dcpowerinc.com/alternators/niss...-titan-275.html

Just called my boss, we have some older stock, but nothing higher end such as that unit. Chicken want to sell the broken unit? Im sure its fixable

x2 Very true, but the same old questions: Which is better FI BTL or DC LVL 4 XL. and then the next day, or a few hours later the same topic starter starts another thread asking "Which is better FI BTL or AA Mayhem"? or How loud will I be with __________? Gets old fast. If I was a moderator, Id straight up delete these type topics and send the user a Private Message explaining how to use the "Search" feature on the forums. LoL

A 12 inch what? Lol DD 1512? If so Id say around 700-900ish watts rms. If you have a perfectly clean signal going from the headunit to the amp, and a clean signal from your amp to your sub. So no dirty power, 100% clip free. But it will really be dependent on your box size, port volume and tuning.

DD for sure! And 1 Rf 2500 per 4 dd 1510s will be perfectly fine! :hairtrick:

link to said other site to see the LoL's? or nudez of your lady bills! either orwill work

hahaha I love it dunk!! But you forgot the shadow on the doggy and piggy. lol

Pokey aint been on here for a good while!! Ride is looking a little rough around the edges, but It has lots of potential to be a nice head turner!! I like the chevy rims

Polen, Make sure your RCA cords are not ran down the same side of the vehicle as the power wire. Also if they cross over any power wires in the back by the amp or are tangled around power wires it is enough to cause interference (even if they are single, double, or triple shielded rca cords). If your not using the same ground bolt for all your amps, try using the same ground bolt. If you have any sort of add on device such as an eq, processor, etc up front make sure your using the same ground as your headunit. Same goes for if your using any type of bass cube, epicenter in the rear. Many times to many devices having too many different grounds will cause interference. If none of that works, try a new set of rca cords. Just goto walmart or a radio shack and buy some cheapo cords and see if that eliminates the problems. A $40 set of rca cords is just as good as a $10 set, and the more expensive set wont improve any sound quality. Ive had problems with Knukonceptz wires before and will never use them again. Just built cheap imo.

Normally I wouldnt post dump in a for sale thread... But it seems like your providing false information about a product. Or PowerMaster has no idea what they are talking about and they made it very clear online and in their catalog that these alternators are "FOR COMPETITION USE ONLY! NOT FOR STREET USE!" PS: GLWS

Nah, fords are like that.. they shrink from 4 doors to 2 doors by the push of a button!

Classic!! LoL Boon!

congrats!!

:01nocomment8so: I brad nailed my last 2 boxes together.. one was 16 cubed, and the other 21.75 cubed, tuned @ 29hz with 6000rms... No issues yet.

totally a kick ass game! I remember when i bought my big screen tv and a few friends would come over and we all play 4 player mode (going from a 37inch tv to a 55 inch was killer)!!. I had a game genie so we always had walk thru doors, turbo mode, and paintball mode on. Shit was a lot of fun. mario kart 64 was good too I still got 2 n64's laying around. just cant find any games for it but 1 stupid one. very disappointing I was playing bond a few weeks ago on my pc. Downloaded a PJ64 emulator, and the 007 rom. Bond for free. Just single player so it kinda blows.