audiofanaticz

Both subs are realatively close. Yes the xxx is better on the sq, but both subs handle the same power. I wouldnt say the btl is really a spl sub just because it can handle power. After all I think the recomended tuning for a btl is 32hz, not many SPL guys tune at 32hz, or even under 50hz. I think of the btl as a re mt, but only a daily sub and not a burp sub with no cooling. If sq is what you want, get the xxx. if spl is what you want, get the mt. if you just want an abnoxiously loud daily driver that will sound great at high volumes, get a btl. These are just my opinions.

thanx for the link bro!

I like those style grand prix too! Sharp pics of your car man! Im really liking it. Link to those fog lights, they look pretty cool with the lil neon ring. My friend had a 97 grand prix gtp 2 door witha 3.8. Car had some nice balls, never cared for the newer ones like 2001s or whatever that have the huge gauge cluster.

Lol... yea alan and his week little stetsoms.. he has to get with the turbo driven pioneers to be loud! rofl :01nocomment8so:

Here is a magnet picture of the beast!!! and a picture of that new sub amp too!!!!!! Check this sh!t out man, my new amp is TURBO DRIVEN roflmao!

yes, the legacy!!! ROFL I gotta glue the dd cap on it yet tho.. just a test placement. My dustcaps on my 18s is bigger then the legacy cone rofl.... Im not running nothing in my car worth of value til spring. I got this ballin ass 4 channel pyrmid amp too for my mids.. Im not even locking my car ill let some poor folks take that shit just so I can get a good laugh!

I guess pic's would help huh? My bad.. I guess I got a lil bit carried away with the hair trick icons :hairtrick:

Like the titles says I got my new sub for the haters. Cant wait to put it in my wall!!! Its so beefy all I need is 1 in about a 18 cubed wall :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick:

All the amps listed above will do their rated rms power and then some. Most people here are gonna say rockford fosgates, but depending on how big of amp they will have one hell of a current draw, but do rated power and then some, are not 16 volt stable unless modded, and will really only take about .8 ohms mono (depending on models), anything below they tend to get a tad warm, but will still run for a good period of time before thermal protection shuts them down for a few minutes to keep from frying. Me, cuz im a groupie are going to pick Digital Designs. For the pure fact that people are claiming to be .5 ohm stable daily, .25 ohm stable burp, will run on 12-18 volt electrical systems (depending on amps), all amps do rated power and then some, but you are looking at a pricey amp no doubt, just like a rf t40001bd. Depending on what model Ma Audio amps your looking at they may or may not do rated power. The HK series that are rated at 4000rms are at 16+ volts. Kicker amps are great too, they are a tad more effiecent then RF, they also do rated power and then some, can take a lower ohm load for burps, will handle 16 volts fine. Only draw back is some are only 2 ohm stable not 1 (depending on models). Treo amps are pricey too, they should do rated power from other sites Ive read (termpro.com), tho dont have no expierence with them. Im not gonna vote because all the amps would have their pros and cons, but id put my money on a DD, with a RF comming in 2nd place from amps listed above. Trying to be unbiased here.

whats bass boost? Ive never touched that dial, and am still loud without it..

^^^ so true. How can you not like'em they so sexy even when they aint beating!

my pictures are the best!!! I call this one "winter" I call this one "waterlilies" and i call this one "sunset"

blah! all you lucky bastards doing pc builds!! Looks like one hell of a setup! wanna trade? :01nocomment8so:

Yes, since the guy had praticly the same problem in that recent link i posted, and so did the member here "V1G1LANT3" with the vehicle he worked on (that has the same transmission as your car). And you said when ever you cycle the ignition key (turn the car on and off) it fixes the problem for a short time, and that is a way to temp clear the code from the transmission computer. thats 3 things with the same soulition for the temp fix of cycling the key. Id bet thats your problem. Plus the scan tool you used said something about a computer too!

Yes, they are the same transmission! The scanner your friend used on your car must of been a old one other wise it should of told you exactly what was wrong with it. I googled it farth and sounds like the transmission computer is shot. Sounds like a simular problem, but both fixes that you are describing and this guy of turning the key on and off fixes the problem until it finds the error again. http://dodge.justanswer.com/dodge/9nii-199...id-transmission

All a cheater amp really is imo is some oldschool amp that was a pretty decent sized, but from people testing them, they found amps to be stable at completly low ohm loads. I dont consider modded amps to be cheater amps at all. Like what someone else said, some "mods" put out more power by adding some caps of fets, some amps such as rf's mod just means it can play at a lower ohm without protection stopping you. But if you do mod an amp, and are a competitior, depending what class you run in like meca or usaci where their are wattage brackets you maybe forced into a higher class, or dq'ed if they found out about the mod. For instance the one old orion refrence, forget the model, but it puts out like 1 watt rms by 2 @ 4 ohms, but then does 1000+rms at something like .00000127 ohms. But most of the older orion hcca 2 channel amps (before they had monoblocks) could burp @ .25 ohms per channel, or where 800wrms at 1 ohm bridge http://cgi.ebay.com/Orion-250-HCCA-competi...id=p3286.c0.m14 I use to have 2 of those way back in the day. Kinda miss them

But like i said, your scanner is only as good as its age.. Make sure its an odb 2 scanner because it can test 3-4 times as many things as a regular scanner. I got my own scanner, its only odb1 but my car is only a 93 so it works for whatever I need on my car, tho if i had a newer car i would of bought a newer scanner.

being that it is a 96 that means that the car is odb2 and not just odb. Make sure which ever place is scaning the car has a new scanner and not a old scanner. A older scanner will work on odb2 vehicles, but will only do a odb1 scan on it since it does not have the techology of a odb2 scanner that can pinpoint the problem right away. Your staying in second gear when the tranny gets hot, how does it shift when its cold? Whats your transmission fluid look and smell? If it is dark in color, and smell kinda like burnt electronics it is probolly bad. It should be a really red color like cherry koolaid Is your tranny fluid have a bunch of metal flake in it? (as if you see parts of aluminum shavings in it). My first suggustion is to goto a auto part store, and buy a transmission filter kit. The kit comes with a new tranny filter and a gasket. they are usally 20-35$. You also need to buy new atf fluid, put as much new in as posibile. The parts store can tell you how much you need, but you proboly need around 4-9 corts. MY caddy takes 7.9 quarts for a transmission filter change, or 15 quarts from bone dry. Usally its only about 14-20 10mm bolts to drop the transmission pan. (hint on taking off the tranny pan: start removing the tranny bolts farthest away from you first. after you get the back row unscrewed, work back and forth going from a bolt on the left side, to a bolt on the right side. When the pan is loose enough it will start draining fluid, and doing it in this order will direct all the fluid out the back of the pan away from you!). Most filters just pull right out, and the new ones just push right back in. Someplace in the pan, you should see a magnet, take it off and clean any metal shavings off it. Make sure to get the inside of the plan clean and free of debry. When you have the tranny pan off, you want to take a razer blade and remove the old gasket from the lip where it bolts together (make sure both the pan and the transmission is clean and free of debry before putting the new pan and gasket back up).

Thats why I said post a screen shot in the 18+ vip section. The rules are what is said there stays there, so your so called "friends" job would be safe. You brag about all these things, but everything that comes out your mouth isnt even toilet bowl worthy. Not only the secret microsoft software, but he is testing a brand new version of microsoft windows that will not be released for another few year according to a different thread. LOL

sheboygan wi

If I remember right and am thinking of the same video, they are some forgein guys that actually cut away part of the basket and where seeing how long it would play with 1/4th the basket missing called 9515 free air with 6000watts http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Digital...igns/9515.3.wmv

wow lol thats kinda cute in its own little way!!

Theres a lot of DD haters out there. Depends on who you ask, you will get mixed reviews from them. I love mine, as so do a lot of people that run them. They are a great sub, and can sound just as good as any other woofer if you do your install correct. People who say they dont like them most likely never even ran them let alone can afford them. But as always install is 7/10 of the sound quality you hear, the other 3/10s id have to say is the amp. Even Steve Meade has installed them and said they are great subs, and thats one of the unbiased opionions you can get!! Got any pics?!? I love the 8 inch caps!! I run them on my 18s, they kinda make the 18s look like 15s cuz the cap is so big tho! Id love to see a 8 inch dustcap on a 10 or a 12, that be looking weird! I got 2 cf 6 inch caps laying around my place too. Dont pay to throw them out, because if you ever need one, DD is gonna charge you $50+ for it. LOL

I think he means these little bad boys! Tho I liked the way the older ones looked, they where huge for 6.5s.

I love my 9518s, they are build tough and keep playing. They scream for power no matter what you toss at them. First hair trick since I got the amps, not even fully tuned and subs are still plenty under powered. Here is just one sub one amp. And here is a dd on a wallsocket that just wouldnt die even after 10+ minutes of constant power free air style. http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=...ideoid=44270091 Opps fogot about the one car I helped build with 4 dd9512s and does well over a 150db (bassrace and burp)