audiofanaticz

Steve with the Sarcasm today!! LoL

cop looking wannabe motherfuc**er! lawl seems like the type of person to shoot himself pulling his gun out!

Why does everyone have to tell him what he should do.. Still dont understand this concept! Im sure Steve will get the car running how he likes it, and it already probably already blows the doors of your 10sec civic with the F being completely stock!

screw it, put them jeans on Ebay. Im sure someone out there will pay a few hundred for them.. LMAO

I like it chilling off to the side also gives you that extra bit of trunk space if you put a lil woofer up in there

You do know that 8mm is bigger then 1/8 of a inch right?, hell its bigger then 1/4 inch.

I vote keep them, they will always make a decent pair of work pants in the shop. Then again, I remember you saying that you buy dickie shirts by the 100s, and only wear them once and toss them out. lol

Do you think before you post... take a woofer apart, there is nothing to use to trace, unless you make the gap over a inch wide......................... And how are you going to put a towel in a gap that is like 1/8inch wide... I had these woofers apart, I wouldnt touch them, since to make them work is with some cheap parts. not worth the hassle trying to make them better, or spend that kinda money on a cheaper sub, so I told the guy where to go to get it done properly, not rigged... Trying to hack the top plate out and not even have it even is going to be a huge lose in BL unless you can keep it dead nuts even all the way around, which you cant do free hand.. And finding a router bit metal or not is not happening.. Hell the smallest wood router bit shanks are 1/4 inch shanks, and most cnc bits are at miniumum 1/2 inch shank All your trying to do is over rigging methods... And Im sure everyone has a lathe in their garage to go make the gap bigger...............

Neither work... What happens when you take magnitized metal, and then start cutting it. Where are those shavings going to go???? Inside the motor... You will never get them out without taking apart the woofer.. They will scratch and damage every coil you put in it. Besides the fact your not fiting a router bit of anysorts in a gap that is smaller then 1/4inch let alone how will you end up keeping it circular. You would need to use a trace bit, and you run into the the problem of the ferrite magnet slugs are no where near the same internal diameter of the top plat gap. The magnets slugs usually have 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger internal diamater then the top plate gap. The woofers magnet force comes from the top plate. This is where all the ferrite slugs are focusing the magnetic force, that thin little top plate, not the entire height of the motor.

Dont think these are songs made by actual artists. hell the one isnt even a song. Parody: A parody (pronounced /ˈpærədi/; also called send-up, spoof, pastiche or lampoon), in current usage, is an imitative work created to mock, comment on, or trivialise an original work, its subject, author, style, or some other target, by means of humorous, satiric or ironic imitation.

Yes, you do! You have to demagnetize it, or it be a pita to take it apart, then machine the top plate opening bigger, then put it together, magnetize it, then build it up. bumpinbuick did it to these motors on CACO. Im sure he has pics.

I ran across this about a weeks ago or so. Drake Im on one remake. Personally like it better then the original http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhDmjynKcs0 Edit: Free download of this song here http://www.hotnewhiphop.com/drama-b-im-on-one-song.349059.html

Thought this was posted already but i guess not! Love this one too!

The difference between the 35watt and 55watt ballasts is just that, one is higher power, and will result in a brighter bulb. However with the higher watt ballasts you loose a little color. The best way to describe it is. A 55watt ballast with a 8000K bulb will make the 8000k bulb look like a 6000K bulb on a 35watt ballast, but it will be brighter then the 6000k bulb on the 35watt ballast. So a 6000k bulb on a 55watt ballast even brighter yet! The pre wired relay harness (double in double out) has a negative wire with a ring terminal that attaches to your negative battery post, a positive wire with a inline fuse and ring terminal that attaches to your positive battery post. The double in double out is how they are wired. The double ins would be where you plug your factory headlight wires into. The double outs would get plugged into the ballasts. There is 1 input and output per hid ballast. (you should use 2 harness if you buy 2 sets for your highs and lows, not needed for fog lights since the clips maybe different, but you could cut the input plugs off and hard wire it if need be). So pretty much your factory plugs plug into the harness, your factory wires will pretty much act like a remote wire from a radio to an amplifier, and use very low current, when you turn the headlights on, it will turn on the prewired relay which will suck the juice from the battery, not the factory vehicle wiring. A pic of the double in double out harness. there is 2 in this picture of mine.

A lot of good ones in here!! could be a epic thread! Anything by Rucka Rucka Ali is deff a hit!!! So many LOLs I love the Rick Ross Ricky Sauce, but has been posted.. So here is my one all time Favorite so far. Chris Brown - Deuces Parody, any regular in chat already knows about the "Douche It"!! The lyrics are so funny! and the video is so identical to the original This Pitbull one is LOLs too!!

Here is a couple color charts from DDMTuning. From looking at autozone.com and checking your vehicle info, it says your car uses the 9005, and 9006 style bulb. So you would have to buy 2 kits to have hids for your high and low beams, plus a 3rd kit for your fog lights Your low beam bulb type is a 9006 Your high beam bulb type is a 9005 Your fog light bulb type is a 880st (this is a lower wattage bulb, 27watts iirc, and a small fog light housing, Im not sure if I would use a hid bulb in such a small housing. It could melt your plastic housings). But its completely up to you and trial and error. I never worked on a Saturn SL2. Sorry

HID sets vary in price, most of all of them come from china, and are very simular from 1 kit to another, but may cost 2 or 3 times as much. I ordered a good 20+sets of HIDs from www.ddmtuning.com for various people, friends, family, myself etc. Average cost is around 60$ per set (with mounting brackets, wiring harness). Their raptor style ballasts are bulletproof, their slim ballasts I dont care much fore, and cost $10 extra. The 5000k, 6000k, 8000k, 12000k etc etc is the temperature of the hid bulb. K means Kelvin. The higher the number the more blue/purple the bulbs are, BUT the less light output they have. So a 6000k bulb will be much brighter and more white then a 12000k bulb which is more purple and has less light output. Stock hids in many cars are around the 4800K-5300K range. What is best is your own liking, no one can answer that but you! To order your bulbs, you first find out what style bulb your vehicle has. Then you goto your hid retailer of your choice and order said hid kits with the same style bulbs. If your factory lights have highbeams and low beams in 1 bulb, then you normally pay more for the special harness and bulb type. If your vehicle has separate bulbs for highs and lows, you would need to buy and install 2 sets to keep your high beams. Technically HIDS are ILLEGAL in ALL STATES unless it is OEM equipped with your vehicle, OR you buy projectors and retrofit the projectors into your headlights (steve meade has a video on his youtube channel how to do this, but every vehicle is different but the concept is the same). You could also buy new headlight housings that have projectors, but the cheap ebay kits for $200ish are usually made of plastic, have the potential to melt, and most are made for Halogen style bulbs, not hids, but some have had okay luck! I have HIDs in all my vehicles for a good 5 or 6 years, and never have gotten pulled over, and dont use projectors. I run 55watt raptor ballasts with 6000k bulbs. I have my lights aimed well and they do not blind others (at least I was never flashed yet, or pulled over for it). HIDs take more power for the initial start up (the first 10seconds or so, when the ballasts are warming up before putting out their full light). After the ballasts for the hids are warmed up they draw less current then your factory halogen headlights. You will also not notice the hids dim like normal headlights do from the amps sucking power to make bass since most ballasts operate in the 9volt to 16volt range to achieve full output. I highly recommend using the prewired relay harness that you can usually buy from the hid retailer, which will make the headlight suck the juice from the battery, and not through your factory headlight wiring. In some but not all vehicles the factory wires can not support the needed amperage for the initial turn on of the ballasts, the relay harness fixes this.

you can refoam any woofer if need be. Finding the right surround to fit it maybe a challenge if the company does not sell them separately. even if you goto http://www.parts-express.com , they make refoam kits for a wide range of drivers and speakers. Not all the top of the line stuff, but they do make them. Usually tho, your better off just done a complete recone, then going thru this hassle.

has nothing to do with measuring the gap on all sides. The voice coil is stock jl coil and is not removed or replaced no need to measure. OP here is a video of a woofer I built up. someplace in there you will see how you shime the voice coil. may have to skip around a bit. http://www.youtube.com/user/audiofanaticz#p/search/0/KR6bpRaUDsI

You have to shim out the voice coil... Also its wise to let the glue fully cure 24hours before even attempting to play the woofer, some glues will not fully dry right away. Even 5minute epoxy says allow to cure overnight or 24 hours..

Nice. Blade looks like a 24tooth used for ripping rought lumbar like 2by4s and what not. You may want to buy a new blade asap tho, find something with a higher tooth count, somewhere around 40-80 teeth. The higher tooth the blade is, the smoother the cut, and the easier the wood slides thru

great post Kimo dont think I could of said it any better!