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audiofanaticz

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Everything posted by audiofanaticz

  1. Just spent $1,360.18 at FiCarAudio.com... What did I buy???????

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. E a r t h
    3. KnockinthaStreetzof608

      KnockinthaStreetzof608

      recones? nd woofer for me? and an ass load of t-shirts lol

    4. n8ball2013

      n8ball2013

      you need to find cheaper glues to sniff

  2. I just charge them every 4 days or so with a little diehard charger. thats all that is seeming to be needed, with temps droping to the high 30s at night here.
  3. Im a partner, so i subbed and friended. Do the same back!!! And remember to click where it counts!
  4. So heres a little before and after of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk0GyN7ZXgc Here is a current product list being used.. Alpine CDA-105 headunit Digital Designs C4A 4channel amp 100wrms by 4 @ 4 ohms (ran at 2 ohms per channel) Four Pioneer 6by8 speakers Two Stinger SPV-70 batteries Two pairs of Stinger King Series RCAs Stinger Pro 1/0 & 4gauge wires Also here is a old distance test video with the old setup. I got to make a new distance test now http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi1GzDymcPk
  5. Not really....... imo If you think they do, then your power wire, and speaker wires make a difference in sound quality too (a bigger gauge cable just wont be good enough)... The only thing a RCA can really change is its noise shielding quality, and well if you run your RCAs proper you should have no engine noise or whine, even when using cheap cables with absolutist zero shielding. No sense dropping bank on cables if your running amps that cost $300-600 each, and $200 component speakers, etc. Thats nonsens it would help realy, it can be realy like, that it sounds this much better, that you can think you have upgraded aour amps and HU on a level category higher. So your telling me that I am wrong, one of the handful of people left on this site that actually know what they are talking about, and provide correct information. Please sit back, and learn something instead of opening your mouth and looking like a fool, and work on your grammar so we can at least understand what your saying ( I will not even comment on your spelling)... Maybe once you get that figured out, you can start to understand car audio. Think what you want, but all a rca cables are is just a piece of copper wire like speaker wire or any other wire with often times a gold plated connector.... Some have shielding, some don't. I swapped out my Tahoe from vintage old school Stinger King series that are triple shielded and directional to plan Jane $3.00 rca cables and noticed no difference in anything. Hell, I will even show you what I pulled out and what I use to use, and what I have now. The reason I pulled the cables out is due to having 6 separate 16 foot rca cables that are the size of 4gauge wire running into my dash with very little room behind the radio. However I left my other style vintage Stinger King series RCAs connected to my two 4 channel amps due to not having space limitations, but the cables from my Alpine CDA-117 to my Alpine ERE-G180 EQ, then to the rear of my vehicle are 3 sets of cheap $3.00 cables Cheap RCAs going into my Sundown Saz-4500s Cheap RCAs plugging into Stinger Y Cables then into Stinger Kings, which go to my one 4 channel amp. And the cheap RCAs plugging into another pair of Stinger Y Cables that plug into my 2nd 4 channel amp.
  6. Not really....... imo If you think they do, then your power wire, and speaker wires make a difference in sound quality too (a bigger gauge cable just wont be good enough)... The only thing a RCA can really change is its noise shielding quality, and well if you run your RCAs proper you should have no engine noise or whine, even when using cheap cables with absolutist zero shielding. No sense dropping bank on cables if your running amps that cost $300-600 each, and $200 component speakers, etc.
  7. It sounds like it could be busted tinsel wires, and when you push down on the woofer they make contact again. Pictures of the sub outside of the box would definitely help bro!
  8. Actually its just the opposite, the rear of the box (or closest to the front of the vehicle). The subs normally closest to my rear doors do better. The rear ones just look so bad because a few days before this I had the woofers out to re glue the broken triple joints and the front ones where trashed, so I moved them to the rear to help spare them a little bit for the comp last sunday. I have fixed the triple joints many times on all subs usually a day or 2 before a comp. However Ive been noticing my scores drop and drop. LOL When I built this box, I went rather large on port due to I only planned on running 1 Sundown SAZ-4500 at .7 to all 4 woofers. Then CapallaSS/Jesse Spoo offered me to use his sundown 4500 until we get his woofers reconed and his wall built. So now I have both saz-4500s strapped at .7 (.35ohms per amp) on all 4 woofers, and I still have 21.75cubbed box with 221square inches of port. Was just too lazy to make a new port, or really work on anything. hA but with them blown, I can finally do what I bought the motors for.
  9. very nice box. Subbed & sent friend request to your channel bro!
  10. I have been repairing the tore triple joints for a while every night before a comp for the last 2 months. So some woofers where more beat then others and had little life left in them not having the triple joints reglued. But that one sub was getting it hard! I feel straight wallsockets are getting boring.need to step it up! Thanks for the Sub!! apparently, you didnt see the circular saw yet then. LOLx2 lol the saw was unexpected. I literally lol'd at that. LOL. I thought to myself after doing it that it may not be a good idea, but eff it. LOL
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