kingsuv

No, they are a little cheaper then HD and whatnot.

These guys will have it. http://www.hugheshardwoods.com/3.htm

There were only a handful of them made. But still can be found now and then.

what kinda amp are we speaking of? His are the DDM4's and they guy who worked on his did a very nice job on them.

I want to say sdimes peak in the 55ish range? Maybe a little more. If you are looking for SPL you will want to tune to the cars cabin frequency.

Now that ya got one, I think we need to see if it works. How bout a finger demo? Nice saw, I would love to get one some day.

Your PM box isnt working. shoot me an email bgalaxy67 at earthlink dot net

I don't do just design work, I design, build then ship. That way I know what I design, actually gets built correctly

The size of the wire DOES NOT determine the size of the fuse. If you are pulling 100a from your amps then put a 100a fuse on it. If its 40amps then a 40a. DO NOT use a bigger fuse then required. It can cause issues. Care to explain? why would there be fuses on the amp if you were to fuse the wire to protect the amp?? or maybe im just thinking of inbetween batteries. The fuse on an amp is not to protect the amp. The amp has protection circuits for that. If the fuse on the amp blows then something has gone terribly wrong. Inline fuses are used to protect the car from fire.

The size of the wire DOES NOT determine the size of the fuse. If you are pulling 100a from your amps then put a 100a fuse on it. If its 40amps then a 40a. DO NOT use a bigger fuse then required. It can cause issues. Care to explain?

WUT??? Your statement makes no sense. It does not matter what type of fuse it is. It could be ANL, Maxi, AGU or whatever. If it is rated for amperage then it will do the job. If you are blowing fuses then you are doing it WRONG.

Unless you are Matt or the OP stay the fuck out of this thread. If I have to waste my time learning how to group ban, it will be heavy and harsh. Fair warning

How about you go off the manufactures recommended specs? Because in all honestly, if you "don't know" how much power to put to the sub, then you should stick with recommended specs. They are there for a reason.

Very cool idea..... :Looks at electric motor collecting dust on shelf:

That shirt trick looks better then Andrews with 10k of power

Well like i said, your bent over to whatever they want to charge. Square subs FTL. Besides, you already know what I said to do about your system

Is that price for the sub to be reconed or just the kit for you to do it your self? Either way, your bent over a barrel cause either you pay or buy a new sub. Some companies have better pricing then others. but with square subs, your pretty much fucked

148 at 30hz was no joke. and the 20hz drops were brutal too It's not too often you see a box lift like yours does

Don't listen to the don't knows about the power to the subs. My LVL 5;s only get about 1k each and get down just fine. I would bet at my power I'm just as loud as some of the guys with double my power. I'm getting tired of all this talk about not having enough power to move a sub. It's fuckin ridiculous. Austin, shoot me an email and I will forward you the 2 designs I have for the 250. You can build either the 4th order or the ported. Hell if you were closer, I would make ya a hell of a deal on either box bgalaxy67 at earthlink.net

I'm pretty sure everything you can think of is covered in my build log on mama's 250

I get a slight odor now and then.

I thank you for thinking of me when getting one that can support the weight of my trucks

Thats good shit right there! I have had the mario theme on my phone for years and no matter where I am, when it rings, people around me give a big ol smile when they hear it.

With money and the right builder, anything is possible

Just because some people put an insane amount of power to them doesn't mean everyone can. Don't listen to what others have "seen" done I say run the power you have now and enjoy them. They will be more then happy on the power you have now.