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TRTC360

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Everything posted by TRTC360

  1. also an amp can be one of the best amps out there but depending on it's technology won't run below 1 ohm, like new rockfords and some of the kicker amps aren't even stable below 2 ohm.
  2. Impressive scores man, I wish I knew the basics of making an extreme vehicle like this, have yet to see an in depth extreme build.
  3. I have yet to understand how someone can think any given sub especially a 3" coil sub would take 7.5k daily
  4. Id also like to get others opinions on this as I drive a 93 firebird formula and the road noise is terrible and the exhaust heat around my legs gets pretty intense after 30+ min of driving.
  5. When 3500 worth of subs, amps, headunit, etc get stolen and you dont have a job to make money quickly. I take a year break to save up then go at it again.
  6. It is true, in a perfect world with zero voltage drop, and zero impedance rise sure you will get 2250 out of it, probably more
  7. You say your car is hitting 140s and yet you don't know what a termlab is? Typically most people find their cars peak using a sealed box and running a sweep at low volume, then they build their ported box according to their cars peak.
  8. Box is too small, and you might be expecting too much out of a 400rms rated sub, it can only get so low and still be loud.
  9. Why don't they fit? Is the basket too big for the mounting hole? Does the magnet hit the Window when you roll it down?
  10. 4 hdc3s should be able to handle "9k rated", just stay within tuning, go a bit easy on gains, build box according to the power you plan on putting to them.
  11. Don't post it anywhere, these types of threads aren't allowed.
  12. x2, any 3500 watt amp suits a pair of HDC's very well.
  13. These have been long gone, sorry fellas!
  14. cause i am 16 and gas is 3.80 a gallon.. If you insist on playing music with the car off, keep the bass off using bass knob, pac lc1 or sublevel on the headunit. Just play mids and highs, that's what I do when I detail my car.
  15. thanks for the response man, my problem is that I think not having nearly enough port area for what i'm tuned at is causing my sub to unload below tuning before it should, my friend's box is tuned to 30hz and he can play 22hz with ease, but his box has lots of port area. I know i'm tuned to 36hz because i've ran lots of test tones through my sub and it moves the least at 36hz. Just as an example, box A is 4 cubic feet tuned to 36hz with 8 sqin of port per cubic foot, box B is also 4 cubic feet tuned to 36hz but with 14sqin of port per cubic foot, will the sub unload more below tuning in box A or box B?
  16. Let me rephrase my question. For all you box builders out there, i've always wondered, can insufficient port area cause a subwoofer to unload before it should? for example a prefab box that is indeed tuned to 36hz vs a good custom built enclosure tuned to 36hz will the sub unload less in the better built box simply because it has proper port area?even though the well built box is a bit bigger and tuned to the same frequency?
  17. I have an American Bass XFL 12" in a dual 12" ported box built for my transam, there's a dividing wall that separates both subs which is why I can run only one sub while I wait to buy the 2nd one. I plan on building a new box eventually, but for the time being I have to keep this box, the issue i'm having is that the box is tuned to 36hz but the sub unloads on anything below 32hz, I know playing below tuning shouldn't be done but i'm not even running rated power to the sub so it shouldn't unload as bad as it is, my question is when I rebuild the box with a bit more cubic feet and a much bigger port to get the proper port area still tuned to 36hz will the sub still unload since the box is bigger and the port is bigger? or will the properly designed port keep the sub more under control? the ports the box has now are very tiny but are indeed tuned to 36hz.
  18. 600 rms, the rating is there for a reason, if you insist on overpowering don't go much above 800, don't clip and don't play below tuning
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