TRTC360

The sad thing is the next day his friend might hate him for what he did, i had to use force against a friend of mine once but he actually thanked me the next day for not letting him drive drunk as we found out that someone we didnt know at the party got arrested at a dui checkpoint which my friend would have gone through on his way home.

Your deep.voice scares me haha. Looks great man, im looking.forward to see a more beefy line of skar subs to.come out!!

there are multiple people on this forum who have heard it with the 5k and can vouch that i was indeed playing full tilt...main things with box design; understand how a box loads/unloads, understand the effect of port area on suspension, send a clean signal to help control thermal aspect and decide whether you want low output due to f3 (which means you MUST be careful below tuning despite having output down there) or decide if you would rather tune low (which allows more control around tuning when playing low)...DON H on caco designs boxes and has specific knowledge with how Skars perform. It might be worth the 10$ or 15$ he charges to get a design from him I wish I could get a design but most people refuse to design for my car as I have a 93 firebird and the box isn't a regular slot port box

well I understand more than rated, but shit, 5k plus to a pair of 1200 watt subs seems too good to be true, I really wish I could hear this setup and see the box design, i'm looking to build a good box for my VVX's for when I recone I can run this DC at 1 ohm and be safe and loud.

is it the same with the kenwood head units? mine goes from -15 to +15, where should I leave it when tuning with a DD-1?

sarcasm doesn't translate well over the internet bud!

I see all these people running 3500 watt amps at .5 on a pair of VVX's or similar 600rms subs, i'm guessing they have gains set at a 1/4 max or only play one song at a time at the boxes tuning frequency then let them cool down, don't get me wrong these subs are damn good but come on 4k+ to a pair of 600 watt subs doesn't seem too realistic.

I think they will assuming no clipping and that you have a well built box to keep the suspension under control. I have my pair on a DC3.5k wired to 2 ohms, I give them hell, more than likely clipped hell too and haven't had an issue yet, i'm not saying it's a good idea to do what I do but i'm ready for D4 recones so might as well see how well of a beating they can take

dimming doesn't mean your voltage drop is super bad, I have a 185 amp alt in my car and a stock battery and with just my highs blaring full blast (hifonics hfi100.4) my lights dim on certain peaks in songs but when I check voltage i'm staying at constant 13.8-14.0

fair enough, I was just wondering, should the newer ones sound that much different that you might not like them? or possibly sound better?

can I ask as to why you're specifically looking for those?

Well I have a DC3.5k on a pair of VVX-12's wired to two ohm, zero gauge, big three upgrade, 185amp alt and stock batteries, I know my electrical is not enough so I keep a good eye on my voltage, when it's warm outside and the engine has been running for a good while my voltage drop is anywhere from 11.5 at the lowest to high 12's on songs that don't drop low, today it's very cold and I noticed the same songs i've been playing sounded a bit louder (ears hurt a bit and I felt chocked up a little bit) I checked my voltage drop full tilt and wasn't dropping below 13's, why does the cold weather affect it so much? my car wasn't idling any higher than normal either.

oh damn! i thought you were trading the truck, scared me for a bit there!

why such a big power handling difference on the XL then? will better cooling make that much of a difference? In my personal experience and I know there are plenty of others that have done it, the m1 XL could handle 3500w of clean power musically before it started to get a little stinky. The power rating difference is coming from a combination of the new cooling built into the motors and the m2s also have a stronger motor than the m1s. The XL and Level 5s use the same coils also and I believe all of the cones are the same throughout the levels. There is now an upgrade option for the AR cones, which are a little bit thicker and stronger than the standard cone. ahhh, that's all I wanted to know man, thanks! I just wish the site was up with pics of these new subwoofers

why such a big power handling difference on the XL then? will better cooling make that much of a difference? The xl could always handle a lot more than what it was rated at well isn't it like that with the majority of good subwoofer companies out there? if you know what you're doing sure you can do more than rated, but why is the power handling on the XL higher if it's the same coil? it's higher than the max you recommended on the old XL's daily right?

why such a big power handling difference on the XL then? will better cooling make that much of a difference?

it all depends on the power you plan on pushing to the sub.

damn that looks brutal, he didn't play an easy song either, that's constant painful bass song.

damn, my friends were drinking this thing called "go juice" it's 4 5 hour energy's, 4 monster energy, 1 handle of his favorite tequila, 1 handle of his favorite vodka, and 1 handle of his favorite rum, one hell of a hangover today.

28k with 5 D3100's 14k to each lvl 5

no vs threads allowed

second skin, dynamat, roadkill, audio technix, deadskin FTW!!!

Thats true. In town theres this mid 90s accord with 2011 civic si rims dropped to a good point and 5% tint all the way around, mint condition black paint, and a decent size muffler the car looks straight up clean and sounds good too i think the kid has an upgraded manifold on it.