RAM_Designs

I use Gibbs.

28hz for me.

There's a reason why the you never see the big guys running aeros in their walls.

Get my old school Alpine MRV-1507 and bridge it.

12" Morel Ultimo.

You could do something that is 36" wide x 23" tall x 23" deep. This would include a double layer baffle and ample bracing to keep the box from flexing with that low-end monster you're wanting to run. If you want to double layer the whole thing, then we can do 36" wide x 25" tall x 24" deep.

What vehicle?

You have plenty of room to make something work in that Tahoe. I'd do subs firing up in a V formation with a vertical port firing towards the back, centered between the subs...kinda like this:

You could also get the new SSA Gcons if you want to run a pair per amp.

Yep, common chamber is easier if the layout works with your dimensions and where the port will need to be.

Unless you're running a ton of power, go big with the box volume.

To the ear you're probably not going to notice much of a difference, if any at all. IMO a single chamber with a single port that has fewer turns will give you a better change to meter higher, if you're worried about that. Also, with the SA-10's there's no need to double baffle the front, they're just not that heavy. But if you want to, it's certainly not going to hurt anything. One thing I don't like in the second design is the sharp corner/point at the end of each port.

The sub cutout itself is a hair over 15", so good luck with that.

If you want to change tunings easily, an aeroport is your friend. In the case of a slot port with that box, do a vertical port. Having a horizontal port stretching the entire width of the box is not realistic in this case.

The sub displacement for 4 is .704 ft^3 and bracings won't take off more than a cubic ft at the most plus the port volume would be .36ft^3 if I tune it to 33 Hz going 8hx10wx7.85l (inches) and its not a slotted port so putting all that together it seems like I do have enough room I was under the impression that you only had 13ft^3 of gross volume to play with. Also, you need to use a lot more port....shoot for 150-175in^2 if you're using decent woofers.

Yes, it can read a good voltage but still be useless. You need to have a load tester to put a load on it and see what it does. If it's bad, the voltage will drop quickly down below 11V.

If you have a decent charging syetem and wire down to .5ohms with a paird of D2 subs, you'll get more than enough power.

Is this the 15" model? If so, aim for ~4.5ft^3 tuned to 30hz with ~60in^2 of port. The new XXX's need large low-tuned boxes to work well.

Not enough room once you take into consideration subwoofer, bracing, and port displacements. With 13ft^3 gross volume you could probably do three 15's, but you'd need to do a wall to do all four subs.

I prefer ported, but sealed boxes will always have better transient response due to the lower group delay. There's no way to argue that. And for people who are into real SQ setups, good transient response is very important when it comes to accurately reporducing REAL music.

This is one of two boxes that I did for Torie Nelson and his 2005 Dodge Magnum. The subs being used are the newer W0V3's, eight of them as you can tell. Final volume is 8ft^3 with a 32hz tuning.

Just depends. Don't worry about it, as you have no control over it...just play and enjoy.

He does too. I think he'll go that route for the easy tunability.

Thanks man.

Here is a couple of designs that I did for Avery Newton and his old school Punch HX2's. The one on the left is 14.5ft^3, and the one on the right is 13ft^3...both tuned to 33hz. As you can see the right one has a removable port so he can slap in a spl tuning for burps.