mbdblue

bump for a good drill! just needs a battery to stay alive. I like the brake on it for quick stops and its actually more powerful (torque wise) than alot of drills out there.

sellin my drill. It DOES need a new battery, but I want a milwaukee or dewalt so Im just gonna sell it. I bought it as a reconditioned for like 85 bucks a couple months ago. has seen some use, but works no problem besides it doesnt hold a charge (battery). Upon first inspection of it, it had very little to no marks, scratches, or scuffs on it. drill sells for 200 bucks new at home depot, and battery is 100 bucks there too....but I checked amazon and they got a new battery for around 50. trying to get 55 bucks shipped for it. you'll get the drill body, battery, and charger.

thats the job market man. I have friends who majored in business and aren't working jobs anywhere near there major. For now, you take what you can get. if your making over 14 an hour where you are, then stay there until something better comes along. you look, and if you can't find anything, you look some more.

check out summitracing.com too man...I discovered they can do shipping for cheap, at least for me

I plan on buying equipment from a shop, its all going to be treo. I have done installs before but there doing alot and its a brand new car so i dont feel comfortble installing it myself. For two ssx specaial ordered and custom dust caps and two treo ssx amps that will be straped togather doing about 5200 watts rms two batteries custom dash install with voltage and dvd player and bass knob and there building box to custom specs and sealing it off from the trunk. Its going to cost about 7k is that too much thats my concern. Thats alot of money to me im only 18 yeah it costs that much cuz its TREO...there pretty decently expensive...I hear good stuff, but expensive none-the-less. Id say this one is tricky. mainly cuz if you get them to install it, and they mess it up, they are liable. if you dont feel comfortable installing it yourself, this route would probably be the easiest. of course, you don't really learn anything about installation if you pay to get it done. and yes, that is a lot of money for an 18 year old....hell my car isnt worth 7k. but we can't really tell you if you have the capability to do it or not. you either nut up and figure it out yourself, or get them to do it at there price.

Ive also seen it done with sound deadener

holy hell man why'd you sign for it??? now they probably won't do a thing cuz you were at the residence. but was that all that was in the box for packaging? I would have built a small crate around it to make damn certain it couldnt be touched.

Id say small SUV....trailblazer, blazer, jimmy stuff like that....but if your looking for alot of room to work, especially under the hood, don't go import. american is definitely easier when it comes to alternators and fitting bigger bats at least IMO....Im sure someone will chime in saying my acura/honda/VW/etc. has this much room. but just from comparing the two, Id say american is the way to go. my honda is getting harder and harder to work on as the equipment gets bigger.

hhhmmmm except hes also talking about SQ not just numbers....and nothing can replace quality. edit: teamHT said it MUCH better vvv

haha I think we have different opinions of quality....my quality is standing up against welding, metal cutting, grinding, and chemicals.... but just out of sheer curiosity, how is Abercrombie a ripoff and AE isn't?

hahaha nice. I work for L3 ESSCO.....workin on military trucks and shit. grease, dirt, sparks, metal, all kinds of fun.

the kind of money they try to get away with charging is rediculous IMO. plus It wouldnt survive 5 minutes at my job...I work too much haha

intense man. glad everyones ok thankfully, and damn near impossibly. he probably would have been screwed if he didnt get ejected. gonna feel weird driving for the next couple days at least

Ive got some man...just lemme know

holy god if you have the choice, paint room without a doubt. outside you got temperature, shit blowin around in the air, the wind in general can get annoying from the glass blowin around...A controlled area and temp would be optimum IMO

your crazy.... the first pic looked like the graphics were made by the dirt and salt on the car. it needs to be taken out of its misery....

wow, catch more flies with honey man.... pretty sure you would end up droppin alot more cash than you would want to on anything else. and the resin won't do shit for you if you dont brace the box first...unless you plan on adding layers....which then brings you back to my whole "cost" point

I have a half dozen smaller pieces of Knu CCA that would be good for big 3. some are blue and some are white, and half of them are already terminated. all ranging around 2.5-4 feet.

when I was workin tire sales, I got a lot of people complaining about the michelins having road noise on the highway. nothing bad about BFGs, Id go with them.

CCA or OFC?

with 1500 for both I would probably just double baffle and be done with it. specs may change with the soft parts, but most likely you can still tune to the freq. you want.

whats subs and power man? your probably gonna get mixed responses to this question... glass is usually used to make the enclosure airtight, or at the joints to make them stronger. which you could also use in place of 45s

fiberglass doesnt like large flat areas. it gets more structurally sound on curves. I wouldn't rely on just fiberglass as structural integrity unless your going to be layering a good amount....and if you did layer a good amount, you mide as well just double up MDF on all sides for cost effect. you'd end up spending more using glass than wood.

Id check out excessive amperage man. I love mine, and didnt cost as much

Im getting a bit over 6 cubes...usually my standard is width-1.5" x length-1.5" x height-1.5"= your total. so in this case it would be (32"-1.5") x (15"-1.5") x (27"-1.5") or 30.5" x 13.5" x 25.5"= 10499.625" then divide by 1728, and you get 6.076 cubes. that would be using 3/4" MDF