sprkn_ranger

You need the rear output if your going to run a 4 channel amp. I guess you could split your rca's but then you lower the voltage of them.

Lol I was wondering when this thread was gonna get started. It was only a matter of time!

Not sure if you already figured on them, but don't forget the ring terminals. Oh and if you don't have it done already, enough 1/0 for a big three

Ohhhh that's gonna look nice!!

Nice! Thanks! And good luck with your hard drive

Thats cool, did you have to download any software?

Yea it's not hard at all, mine has like 3 screws holding in place and once they are out it just slides right out. How do you run your xbox live through your laptop?

Sorry to hear bro. Keep your head up and it will get better.

To answer the fuse question if nobody has yet, you need a fuse that is rated for your WIRE. I'm not sure what your wire can handle but most of the time 300a fuse is good for 1/0.

You can buy the scotts "anytime" fertilizer and that should help you save it. Just make sure you water it good. The best way to water is for short intervals. Example: instead of watering once a day for 10 minutes do it twice a day for 5 minutes each time. And if you did want to re-seed it's not to late. I seeded a new lawn in mid April when the temps were at 70+ everyday and my lawn looked great.

Yea I went last year cause my bro in law worked at the Fontana track and he got us free tickets at the finish line up next to the suites plus a pit pass and free food, and I still didn't really care for it. The only part I remotely enjoyed was the first green flag. After that it was pretty boring. But hey to each their own!

If you have a battery in the trunk, you should have the amp grounded to the negative terminal on that battery. And you should have 2 runs of 1/0 (1 power, 1ground) going from the front battery to the rear battery. Also make sure that there is a fuse at each battery positive. And yes I think it's a good idea to have a ground going from the rear battery to the chassis as well.

Well it depends on the car, not all cars have a "frame" in that case the chassis is the unibody, but in a car with an actual frame the chassis is the frame.

I'm not familiar with those amps but is there a reason your only using 4gauge for your power and grounds?

Yes but don't forget to sand the paint off around the hole to a shiny metal surface or your no better off than the seatbelt bolt.

Well the absolute best ground Is the negative post on the battery, but the next best place is the chassis. Just make sure the paint is completely removed. The metal needs to be clean and shiny. It also doesn't hurt to do the big three.

Steves little clipping meter will NOT replace an o scope. I'm willing to bet that meade will never actually use one in any of his future builds. Unless he goes over it with a scope behind the scenes. /rant. I don't think Steve's product is meant to replace an Oscope, but provide an alternative method to accurately set gains without having to spend $300 on a tool most of us won't use outside of setting gains. And why don't you think he would have faith his product does what it's supposed to do?

I feel for ya man, but geez I could only wish to work that much, but then again, being unemployed will do that to ya!

Nice Builds man, lookin forward to see what kinda audio setup your gonna build! Welcome to the forum!

I've never heard of anyone upgrade the wire to the fuse box when you're already done the direct wire from alternator to battery. Is it really necessary? Or you just had extra wire laying around and went upgrade crazy??lol Well it definatly doesn't hurt anything, all it can do is help the vehicles stock electrical. I always say there's no such thing as overkill!

Thanks mucho brotha!

Dude congrats! That's awesome!

In addition to this, dimensions on the space you have to work with and maybe a general idea of the "look" your going for.

Welcome man! Once you get started on things, set up a build log and show everyone your stuff!

You can probably figure on about 8-10ft of wire for the big 3.